Removing tow hitch

LookAtThatDog

New member
I removed the 4 easy bolts, but the two bolts with nuts that are welded inside the frame are of course no longer welded inside the frame - courtesy of my impact gun.

Should I:

A. Remove rear bumper, get my longest ratchet inside the frame to hold the nut still while I impact the bolt (This looks do-able, but maybe somebody on here has tried and failed and will warn me of my impending failure)

or

B. Just grind that shit like Tony Hawk

:thanks:
 
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I removed the 4 easy bolts, but the two bolts with nuts that are welded inside the frame are of course no longer welded inside the frame - courtesy of my impact gun.

Should I:

A. Remove rear bumper, get my longest ratchet inside the frame to hold the nut still while I impact the bolt (This looks do-able, but maybe somebody on here has tried and failed and will warn me of my impending failure)

or

B. Just grind that shit like Tony Hawk

:thanks:

Well, I'd recommend using a long box wrench rather than subjecting a ratchet to the stress of an impact wrench. That's how I got one of mine out (and how I put it back.) I didn't use an impact though. The truth is, the next thing you break will be the bolt, which you can do with a 24" breaker bar (how I got the other one out.) Impact is overkill.
 
Soon after I see this thread, I decided to remove my tow hitch. This thing is about 50 Kg's! I was carrying this everywhere I go for no reason. Trying to get a better MPG!
 
Soon after I see this thread, I decided to remove my tow hitch. This thing is about 50 Kg's! I was carrying this everywhere I go for no reason. Trying to get a better MPG!

I thought about this too, but the added weight does help 2WD traction during the winter months.

It's either shave the weight for fuel economy, but potentially needing to engage 4WD more often which would counter any MPG savings or just leave it as is and in the very least have something that CAN be practical if ever the need arises (pulling a jeep out of a ditch, hauling a borrowed trailer, something to mount Reverse Lights to, etc.)

The potential usefulness of just having it there "in case" outweighs the potential fuel savings IMO.
 
I thought about this too, but the added weight does help 2WD traction during the winter months.

It's either shave the weight for fuel economy, but potentially needing to engage 4WD more often which would counter any MPG savings or just leave it as is and in the very least have something that CAN be practical if ever the need arises (pulling a jeep out of a ditch, hauling a borrowed trailer, something to mount Reverse Lights to, etc.)

The potential usefulness of just having it there "in case" outweighs the potential fuel savings IMO.

Yeah, I am of this opinion as well after considering removing my towing hitch a few years back. I've actually used it on more than a few occasions to tie to, jack up, etc. It's also handy protection against rear end bumps...and let me assure you, it'll do a good deal of damage to little cars (don't ask me how I know this).

Interesting to see that they are welded on though! I was hoping to replace mine or at least take it off and clean up the rust spots on it, but not sure that's very practical since I can't weld another one back on.
 
Interesting to see that they are welded on though! I was hoping to replace mine or at least take it off and clean up the rust spots on it, but not sure that's very practical since I can't weld another one back on.

It's not the hitch that's welded on. There are some Bolt Nuts/Bungs tack welded on the inside of the frame rail. Just like the ones in the u-channel between the front bumper and rad taht is used for the front skid plate bolts.

If the welds for the nuts have rusted off and broke, you can still remove and reinstall teh hitch, it just takes a little extra effort and some tools that can get inside the frame rail to hold the nut in place
 
I took my hitch off temporarily to clean up the rust, there was no way to clean it up thoroughly without dropping it.

I sanded off all the loose rust and peeling original powdercoat (mostly at the weld areas) then:
  • Harbor Freight Rust Converter spray, let it dry overnight. It sprays/dries clear and turns any rusty areas black.
  • Harbor Freight bedliner spray. Followed the directions waiting 5 minutes between coats, did a total of 3 coats, then dry overnight. I did not spray the whole hitch in one session,just sprayed all the surfaces I can reach while the hitch sat right side up.
  • Turned the hitch upside down and applied bedliner spray on the areas I didn't cover the day before. Again let it dry overnight.

Went through one can of spray bedliner and still have plenty of rust converter. I still have to chase the threads of the bolts and bolt holes and treat/repair any surface rust on the frame rails before reinstalling the hitch.
 
I took my hitch off temporarily to clean up the rust, there was no way to clean it up thoroughly without dropping it.

I sanded off all the loose rust and peeling original powdercoat (mostly at the weld areas) then:
  • Harbor Freight Rust Converter spray, let it dry overnight. It sprays/dries clear and turns any rusty areas black.
  • Harbor Freight bedliner spray. Followed the directions waiting 5 minutes between coats, did a total of 3 coats, then dry overnight. I did not spray the whole hitch in one session,just sprayed all the surfaces I can reach while the hitch sat right side up.
  • Turned the hitch upside down and applied bedliner spray on the areas I didn't cover the day before. Again let it dry overnight.

Went through one can of spray bedliner and still have plenty of rust converter. I still have to chase the threads of the bolts and bolt holes and treat/repair any surface rust on the frame rails before reinstalling the hitch.

Did you get yours off without breaking the welded nuts?
 
Soon after I see this thread, I decided to remove my tow hitch. This thing is about 50 Kg's! I was carrying this everywhere I go for no reason. Trying to get a better MPG!

I removed my hitch for better departure angles, off road that thing was always first to hit (and I still have my running boards on there) .. even ripped off the tow harness sadly.

Found out I got a free lift of almost 1/4" in the rear measuring before and after as a BONUS!!

Hit the same trails, and guess what, no more rubbing.
 

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