Replace an 11-Year-Old Radiator Before It Fails?

[DougR]

I own a 2011 Trail in Phoenix, AZ and I’m thinking about replacing the radiator when cooler weather arrives. It’s not leaking; however, I wonder about the risk of sudden coolant loss that could lead to significant engine damage.

If replacing the radiator (and hoses) is recommended, I’ll choose between an OEM radiator and the all-aluminum CSF. I’ve observed ATF temps as high as 242F while climbing a long steep grade on I-17 towards Flagstaff on the hottest days of summer. ATF temp falls under 200F after the climb so I think it’s OK. Perhaps CSF offers better ATF cooling than stock?

Replace the radiator after 11 years? Stock or CSF?

 

[czgunner]

Assuming you've flushed your coolant every 3-5 years, and you don't have any leaks, I wouldn't worry about it. I've worked on Toyotas with 300k miles on them that had the original radiator. Its all about the maintenance.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

 

[Napalm]

I’m fixing to replace mine in my 4th gen due to a leak, and I just went with a Denso.

 

[bill444]

I own a 2011 Trail in Phoenix, AZ and I’m thinking about replacing the radiator when cooler weather arrives. It’s not leaking; however, I wonder about the risk of sudden coolant loss that could lead to significant engine damage.

Usually, not until 15-20 years. There are two things to consider: excessive corrosion inside the cooling system and excessive heat in the engine compartment.

What has the coolant looked like as you drained it over the years?

Best case scenario: you've seen the coolant when it was changed and there's no signs of rust or sludge. I'm also assuming it was replaced with the correct coolant and never mixed with something incompatible. As infrequent as you change it, I would only use Toyota pink in the 5th gen.

I might change the thermostat and assuming the housing is plastic, change that too. Look at the condition of the thermostat. Any sludge or corrosion?

Pull a hose off a hard pipe and look at the condition of the end of the hard pipe.

If you have no corrosion inside the cooling system, you may have another 10 years of life left.

Do you monitor your temps via Scan Gauge or something similar? I would want to know that the temps are the roughly the same year over year. If you had rust inside the system, the temps would be higher than normal because rust is an insulator and holds the heat in.

I would also make sure the plastic in that area is cleaned up really well. Small leaks will show up easily because of the pink spray. This will also give you a chance to look for cracks. Look carefully at the neck where the cap is installed.

If you haven't been running really hot temps for some reason, the plastic is less likely to fail prematurely. I've seen exhaust manifold leaks go without repair for years and generate more heat that causes problems for nearby rubber/plastic items.

I would focus on the condition of the hoses, overflow bottle, and put on a new OEM cap.

If the fins are not brittle, you're also likely good to keep going.

 

[DougR]

What has the coolant looked like as you drained it over the years? Do you monitor your temps via Scan Gauge or something similar?

Thanks for a comprehensive response. I'll perform the detailed inspections you recommend when Phoenix weather finally cools off in a couple months. Drained coolant has always looked very good and there is no evidence of pink coolant staining or leaking anywhere. Temps monitored by OBDLink MX+ have been consistent.

 

[<<<<]

I don't understand this. Why not just replace 11 year old 4 Runner if there is a fear that something will fail? Based on Toyota reliability it is unlikely to have catastrophic failure. You can replace things preventatively such rubber bushings and belt. I think radiator is safe to be let alone. Just keep replacing coolant according to schedule.

 

[CutthroatSlam]

It is rare to see a radiator leak cause a catastrophic failure. Typically, the leak will be small and they don't grow into a torrent. You can catch the leak and replace the radiator in plenty of time.

 

[Seaaggie89]

How to remove radiator?

Has anyone here replaced their Gen 5 radiator? Mine's leaking at the top tank seal and I can't find any how to articles/videos on the Gen 5. Lots of Gen 3 and 4 though which look easy.

I've heard you have to remove the front bumper on the Gen 5? That doesn't sound appealing!

I'd like to hear from someone who's done the job before I start.

Thanks.

 

[jdm-v35]

Has anyone here replaced their Gen 5 radiator? Mine's leaking at the top tank seal and I can't find any how to articles/videos on the Gen 5. Lots of Gen 3 and 4 though which look easy.

I've heard you have to remove the front bumper on the Gen 5? That doesn't sound appealing!

I'd like to hear from someone who's done the job before I start.

Thanks.

I don't think you need to remove the bumper. You need to remove top shroud, radiator fans, and engine skid(to get to coolant/trans fluid hoses). All the radiator bolts are accessible from in the engine bay.

 

[Jeremy556]

Should be the same as gen4. Service data says to remove the bumper cover, but I can't see how it is needed. I have pulled mine loose to clean out debris between rad and condenser and I believe everything was on the engine compartment side. Lots of room to work once fan and shroud are removed.

 

[bigdaddy2021]

I own a 2011 Trail in Phoenix, AZ and I’m thinking about replacing the radiator when cooler weather arrives. It’s not leaking; however, I wonder about the risk of sudden coolant loss that could lead to significant engine damage.

If replacing the radiator (and hoses) is recommended, I’ll choose between an OEM radiator and the all-aluminum CSF. I’ve observed ATF temps as high as 242F while climbing a long steep grade on I-17 towards Flagstaff on the hottest days of summer. ATF temp falls under 200F after the climb so I think it’s OK. Perhaps CSF offers better ATF cooling than stock?

Replace the radiator after 11 years? Stock or CSF?

OP, just to make sure I understand:

1. your radiator seems to be working fine
2. your cooling system seems to be working fine
3. your worry is about damaging your motor from sudden coolant loss, and are thinking about pro-actively replacing this particular part.

4. You then switch to talking about your transmission and the Auto Trans fluid (ATF), correct? In the context that the radiator provides cooling for the transmission?

If that's all correctly understood I have a few responses:

1. If it ain't broke don't fix it: If your systems are running fine - don't disturb them other than draining (not flushing) and refilling per your owners manual. I'm 100% against flushing most systems, just my opinion.

2. Do our radiators have an integrated ATF cooler attached to them? I didn't think so? In any case, that's going to be a function of a transmission ATF fluid cooler - either stock or aftermarket - not the cooling system, that runs Coolant through the motor and heater core.
(unless our rigs have some whiz-bang system i'm not aware of)

 

[Ezlife45]

Change hoses? Probably
Change radiator? As stated, probably a slow failure where a hose leak is probably catastrophic unless you smell it and take immediate action. I'd leave the radiator alone.

I have had 15+ year old vehicles with the original radiator. My 21 year old truck is on it's second radiator but that is because of a pressurized overflow tank failure that boiled the original radiator dry. Everything gummed up inside so bought replacement and never looked back That was 12 years ago.

 

[Seaaggie89]

This is a 6 month old thread. I apologize for reactivating it but the silly posting rules on this page will only let me reply to existing threads and not start new ones.

I'll tackle the radiator and just see what happens.

 

[bigdaddy2021]

This is a 6 month old thread. I apologize for reactivating it but the silly posting rules on this page will only let me reply to existing threads and not start new ones.

I'll tackle the radiator and just see what happens.

Ahh, you got me with a necro-thread. Welcome to the forum. yeah there are some anti-spam rules in place, i think.

I'll second JDM's response, the the radiator is pretty far back from the front bumper - just the upper shroud, skid and some surrounding bits should do it.

Even if you had to remove the bumper shroud, it's pretty easy. I would start in the engine bay with the upper shroud near the hood latch. I had to remove that to install my hidden winch remote plug. Opens up a huge space to be able to work.