Replace Stock Hitch - Remove Rear Bumper Cover

R

ram

New member
I have an '05 4Runner V-6, with a stock receiver. To help others, I thought I would post some links and info now that my install is done.

I replaced the small stock 2" receiver (that just bolts to the bumper impact bar) with a Hidden Hitch Model 70779. I appreciated e.Trailer's free shipping and quick delivery.

I spent A LOT of time figuring out that I just needed to remove all of the bumper covers (left/center/right) to properly install the hitch. In the end, to remove the upper bolts on the old 2" receiver, you must remove the cover. Also, to install the welded nut assemblies, it is just SO MUCH EASIER to install them through the bumper frame's large holes that are located under the rear bumper cover piece.

The "access" holes the instructions said to use (on the spare tire side of the bumper frame) were TOO SMALL for the welded nut assemblies to pass through. I would have had to cut/grind the welded nut assemblies down to a smaller size to get them in there. Shame on Hidden Hitch for that major flaw. I wonder if the Curt receiver has the same issue with its welded nut assembly.

This video is very useful as it shows how to remove the bumper cover (in the context of accessing the rear bumper lights) on a 2005 4Runner.
Replace 2003-2005 Toyota 4Runner Rear Bumper Reflector , How To Change Install 2004 TO1184101 - YouTube

Thank you to t4r member EMYHRE for posting this info on how to remove the cover. It too was useful, but the video's demonstration of how to remove the cover from the pressure snaps is very useful.

I took off all three cover pieces as one. The video demonstrates removal of the side, so I removed all of the center cover screws as well, and and the three pieces (left, center and right) came off as one large piece. They are connected. Real simple actually. Doing this cleared lots of room after I removed the spare tire (which I suggest).

Here's also the 120 forum's write up on bumper removal.

I'll post some pics later.
 
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Looking forward to the pics!
When I attempted to remove my hitch I had 2 of the frame rail bolts break off inside the frame. I could just weld everything back together but I'd rather get is bolted on if possible in case I need to remove in the future.
 
Is it required that you remove the cover to get to all of the bolts for this specific hitch or for all hitches on the 4Runner? I converted to a weight distributing hitch reciever last year and while it was a pain to remove all of the bolts on the stock reciever (top ones were slow with a box end wrench) I was able to do it without removing the cover.

I have had to grind out the holes to fit the mounting bolts on a previous vehicle but I don't remember having to do this on my 4Runner with the Draw-Tite and both companies are one and the same so I'd assume the bolts were similar, if not the same.
 
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Here's the stock receiver.



I bent the plastic out best I could using 2x4's thinking those top bolts would get past the plastic cover if I bent it out enough. No go. They were 2" bolts, not sure how you could get the top ones out while pulling the cover back without paint damage. As it was, the clear coat wanted to crack in some spots on the bumper cover as I stressed it.

<a href="http://s110.photobucket.com/user/drtjunkie/media/2005%204Runner%20Receiver%20Install/2.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n106/drtjunkie/2005%204Runner%20Receiver%20Install/2.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2.jpg"/></a>



That's when I decided to remove the cover all together. All three cover pieces are bolted together (left, center and right), so they came off as one large piece. Very easy once you understand how its all attached. (watch the video in my earlier link).





The bumper cover removal made the old receiver removal and new receiver installation much, much easier.

The big surprise was that the welded nut assembly WOULD NOT FIT through the access hole (on the spare tire side of the bumper) that is supposed to be used per the Hidden Hitch installation directions. This is Hidden Hitch's big screw up. As you can see, the plate and bolt are TOO THICK to go in the hole (holding all jokes about now :high5:). If I had not removed the bumper cover, I would have had to ground the welded nut assembly down to make it go in. Unbelievable that they missed this.





The bumper cover removal made it so I could fit the welded nut easily through the large bumper hole located under the bumper cover (that I removed). This is on the opposite side of the access hole you are supposed to use per the instructions.



Buttoning it all back up was no big deal. I broke a few of the little insert clips, so I'll hit the auto parts store to replace. No biggie.

Here's a few of the finished project.



I really don't like that Hidden Hitch did not design this receiver to hug the bumper more. I guess when its designed to fit several vehicles, there will be compromise. I guess not that big of a deal. Overall quality of the receiver is very good (not counting the installation design issues).



It sticks out a bit more than the stock 2" Receiver.





I DO NOT like the fact that the electrical mount is the lowest point on the receiver by a few inches. The top of the wood is under the receiver plate. so this shows the lowest spot. I guess its not a big deal, but I just don't like what could happen with a squatted T4R and rough terrain. I'd hate to damage that in the middle of a trip.



I run 265/70-16's. This shows I can go maybe an inch or so more in diameter in there. But I'll need to pay attention to the space for the spare tire if I go with a larger diameter tire.



I hope this is helpful for others when they face this project on the 4th Gen.
 
Thanks for the pics and the right-up!
From the looks of it I will be getting my factory hitch welded back in place as reaching the nuts that broke off inside the frame rail does not look very promising.
 
I guess my thought for your situation is (now that I've removed the cover once) to remove the cover, cut/grind off the broken bolts flush with the bumper as needed, and bolt on an aftermarket hitch.

With the cover off, an aftermarket receiver is a REAL simple installation.

Good luck to you either way.
 
Thanks for the recommendation! I plan on reusing the orginal hitch as it is the heavy duty tow package one which looks the same as your aftermarket.
 
Forgive my ignorance on the subject (I don't tow anything and know nothing about it), but I'm curious - what do you gain by replacing the factory hitch with an aftermarket one?
 
Ah Message, gotcha. I thought your hitch was the light duty like mine.

To answer MontyMTB, I did this for the extra tongue weight rating. My stock rating is 500 lb / aftermarket is 600 lb rating (Though this does not change the vehicle ratings, I wanted the extra beefy setup compared to what I had).

I'm planning to get a 2-motorcycle hitch hauler and to set my mind at ease I wanted the extra 100 lb of framed margin and stiffness spread around when I load the two motorcycles. Since the weight is extended 36" or so out from the frame, the torque on the mount is, I presume, pretty high. I'm also planning to install air bags in the rear springs to keep it from squatting if needed.

 
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ram said:
To answer MontyMTB, I did this for the extra tongue weight rating. My stock rating is 500 lb / aftermarket is 600 lb rating (Though this does not change the vehicle ratings, I wanted the extra beefy setup compared to what I had).
Click to expand...

That makes sense, but I guess that I assumed that Toyota - or any vehicle manufacturer for that matter - would supply a hitch that was rated to carry the same weight that the vehicle it is on is capable of towing.
 
The issue is not the Toyota specs vs. stock receiver capability. The issue is what I'm planning to hook up to the back end that concerned me.

The two motorcycles are about 400 lbs together, and they are sticking 36+ inches out from the bumper which multiplies the force on the bumper frame. I'm concerned the affect will be to exceed the 500 lb rating. (some engineer here can supply the calculation regarding force multiplication). It was just too close to max for my comfort.

I chose to upgrade the hitch to a heavy duty boxed receiver 600lb tongue weight to make sure I had enough margin on capability as well as spread the torque forces.

The vehicle is still rated for 500lb tongue weight.
 
Sorry for any confusion guys... My factory hitch (tow package) is a class 3 that mounts on the back as well as on both frame rails same as the one installd above, however mine is far more hidden. See top pic here:http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22628
I removed it to re-paint, as it is covered in surface rust, and upon doing so 3 of the 4 bolts attaching it to the frame rails snapped. One of which I had to take care of with a sawzall as it broke free internally. So now I need to either weld it back into place or figure out how to bolt it up if possible.
 
I don't need that extra 100 lbs and would prefer the factory hitch since it's more hidden. However, when I purchased my truck, all the dealer have were the 3rd party hitches they put in themselves. Even with the ones have the bumper cover cutoff for the OEM hitch. I thought that was a little strange.

I ended up put one in myself and got the same one [MENTION=8583]ram[/MENTION] has. I remember the lights socket doesn't reach to the new hitch and I had to extended it with wires.
 
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I too like the factory receiver's "hidden" design. Oh well, I'll live with what I got.

Ah . . .not sure if I should mention this, but just in case someone else doesn't know - The wires reach without modification if you pry them out of the body mounts and also snip one of the plastic ties just behind the connectors.

Once I "untied" them from the body, the wires extended out and were just the right length to reach the new receiver mount.
 
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message said:
I removed it to re-paint, as it is covered in surface rust, and upon doing so 3 of the 4 bolts attaching it to the frame rails snapped. One of which I had to take care of with a sawzall as it broke free internally. So now I need to either weld it back into place or figure out how to bolt it up if possible.
Click to expand...

Is it possible to saturate the broken bolts with "penatrating" oil over a few days to release the rusted portions, then try to back them out with a bolt extractor? I've successfully used Harbor Freight bolt extrator (that was like $10) on smaller stuck bolts.

It seems with a try before welding it all back on.
 
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It's not the bolts that are stuck. The nuts welded internally broke free thus the use of the sawzall. The other 2 bolts actually broke off flush with the frame.


ram said:
Is it possible to saturate the broken bolts with "penatrating" oil over a few days to release the rusted portions, then try to back them out with a bolt extractor? I've successfully used Harbor Freight bolt extrator (that was like $10) on smaller stuck bolts.

It seems with a try before welding it all back on.
Click to expand...
 
For those that are reading this post in the future, the factory mounted assembly is only a load bearing hitch, NOT FOR TOWING purpose.
 
radlynx said:
what's the difference between load bearing and towing?
Click to expand...

The stock 2" receiver is a load bearing, to use for bike rack ect, 500 lb.
This piece is not on what you would say not mounted on a solid area like your frame.
This is why you get a tow hitch to mount that is solid design and mounts to the frame.

Example... Look at the piece that the stock piece is connected to, thin.
Tow hitch is like 1/4" thick and solid welds.

Another thing, the location of the 7 pin Plug in mounted on the tow hitch is in a bad spot if you decide to off road. It will get hits and damage.

Trust me, done that and have relocated. I do occationaly tow with mine and I drive for a living, ( 18 wheelers).
 
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