Replace the engine or just buy a used 4th gen?

drei4runner29

New member
If I was to replace the engine, I was thinking of purchasing a used engine from Japan. It would run me around $1000+ before labor costs.

Reason for the engine swap is because one of my spark plugs is stuck and is causing a misfire and he's afraid if he was to forcefully remove it, the threads might be cross threaded and he won't be able to put a new spark plug in. If that was the case, he mentioned that I would be looking at around $1000+ to fix the problem. When he started the vehicle he noticed a rough start of the vehicle where the vehicle's engine felt like it was about to die. He advised that's not a good sign and that my engine might be dying since I have almost 300k miles on it. With parts and labor plus the used Japanese engine, I'm looking to spend around $2500+.

Is it worth it to replace the engine or just buy a used 4th gen? If I was to purchase a 4th gen, does anyone know what types of problems I need to be weary of?

Also, do any of you have any recommendations on where to purchase a used Japanese engine? I was advised of Soken Trade in North Hollywood. Any other companies that you can recommend?

Thanks for your help.
 
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Reason for the engine swap is because one of my spark plugs is stuck and is causing a misfire...

you might have a great mechanic, and he may be super smart and know exactly what he's doing, but it does not really sound like it.

sounds like you just need to change the spark plug. and get a new mechanic, especially if he is the one you are thinking about the engine swap.

there are ways to 1) remove a stuck plug without breaking it, and 2) if it does break, fix it.

You may have to pull the head off, but that's a lot easier than signing up someone else to swap the whole motor for you.

Seized plug in aluminum head, can be removed with patience. What has been done so far? On a cold motor of course: if it turns a bit but then feels like it stops and starts to flex, tighten it again. Sort of bounce on it gently in both directions like you are trying to get a spinning tire out of loose ground by accelerating, decelerating to rock out. Same sort of concept. I think if you bounce back and forth a bit, you are sort of grinding the corrosion and/or carbon in the threads. You will actually hear it squeaking, but I think that's the aluminum, not the grinding (if that's actually what is happening). But do not force past where it feels like it's flexing. Just keep going back and forth and it will slowly gain more and more ground.

Don't force it, it will break, and if it does, it can still be extracted, usually without having to pull the head out.

Is he the one that installed the plug? Good idea to use anti-seize when put a new one back in. Chase the threads too, depending on why/how it seized up.
 
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you might have a great mechanic, and he may be super smart and know exactly what he's doing, but it does not really sound like it.

sounds like you just need to change the spark plug. and get a new mechanic, especially if he is the one you are thinking about the engine swap.

there are ways to 1) remove a stuck plug with breaking it, and 2) if it does break, fix it.

You may have to pull the head off, but that's a lot easier than signing up someone else to swap it for you.

Seized plug in aluminum head, can be removed with patience. What has been done so far? Cold motor of course, if it turns a bit but then feels like it stops and starts to flex, tighten it again. Sort of bounce on it gently in both directions like you are trying to get a spinning tire out of loose ground by accelerating, decelerating to rock out. Same sort of concept. I think if you bounce back and forth a bit, you are sort of grinding the corrosion and/or carbon in the threads. You will actually hear it squeaking, but I think that's the aluminum, not the grinding (if that's actually what is happening). But do not force past where it feels like it's flexing. It will break, and if it does, it can still be extracted, usually without having to pull the head out.

Is he the one that installed the plug? Good idea to use anti-seize when put a new one back in. Chase the threads too, depending on why/how it seized up.

No, this mechanic is a new one I went to. Long story short, I've been having misfire issues for awhile now, off and on, and every time I took it to my regular mechanic to have him check it out, he always says there's nothing wrong with it. I decided to take it to this new mechanic and he's the one that advised me that one of my cylinders (#4 to be exact) is misfiring. I just recently had all my plugs changed by my previous mechanic maybe 2 or 3 months ago.

Thanks for your input.
 
...I just recently had all my plugs changed by my previous mechanic maybe 2 or 3 months ago...

So then your misfire problem is not the spark plug. Brand new plugs went in 2-3 months ago? That's bizarre. Too soon to be seized. Possible your previous mechanic cross threaded on the way in which would be the first few turns and the plug tip is in the threaded port causing misfire.

Do you know why the mechanic knows it was in number #4? I'm assuming the stuck plug is the misfire cyl?

There are a lot of these motors running great with 300k. How's the oil look? Seen under the valve covers or inside oil fill cap? Can look in PCV hole too to see if any sludge build up. But if the crankcase looks like an okay life, just figure the plug out, make sure you have good ignition components and they are on tight. If it still runs rough, chase down fuel then compression. And just as a matter of habit, always keep the MAF and throttle body cleaned, even if you end up in a 4th gen or whatever, it's just like brushing your teeth.

What codes? Did it CEL the misfire on 4? p0304. Guess you never clarified, but you have the V6?
 
If I was to replace the engine, I was thinking of purchasing a used engine from Japan. It would run me around $1000+ before labor costs.

Reason for the engine swap is because one of my spark plugs is stuck and is causing a misfire and he's afraid if he was to forcefully remove it, the threads might be cross threaded and he won't be able to put a new spark plug in. If that was the case, he mentioned that I would be looking at around $1000+ to fix the problem. When he started the vehicle he noticed a rough start of the vehicle where the vehicle's engine felt like it was about to die. He advised that's not a good sign and that my engine might be dying since I have almost 300k miles on it. With parts and labor plus the used Japanese engine, I'm looking to spend around $2500+.

Is it worth it to replace the engine or just buy a used 4th gen? If I was to purchase a 4th gen, does anyone know what types of problems I need to be weary of?

Also, do any of you have any recommendations on where to purchase a used Japanese engine? I was advised of Soken Trade in North Hollywood. Any other companies that you can recommend?

Thanks for your help.

If I was in your shoes I would have him pull the heads off. Replace the head gaskets and timing belt/water pump if your haven't done it already. Inspect the thread for that spark plug. If it is stripped find a head from a salvage yard and replace it. A used head should not cost much or he can helicoil it. Me personally I would just replace that head.
 
So then your misfire problem is not the spark plug. Brand new plugs went in 2-3 months ago? That's bizarre. Too soon to be seized. Possible your previous mechanic cross threaded on the way in which would be the first few turns and the plug tip is in the threaded port causing misfire.



Do you know why the mechanic knows it was in number #4? I'm assuming the stuck plug is the misfire cyl?



There are a lot of these motors running great with 300k. How's the oil look? Seen under the valve covers or inside oil fill cap? Can look in PCV hole too to see if any sludge build up. But if the crankcase looks like an okay life, just figure the plug out, make sure you have good ignition components and they are on tight. If it still runs rough, chase down fuel then compression. And just as a matter of habit, always keep the MAF and throttle body cleaned, even if you end up in a 4th gen or whatever, it's just like brushing your teeth.



What codes? Did it CEL the misfire on 4? p0304. Guess you never clarified, but you have the V6?


He showed me which cylinder was misfiring when he plugged his machine in and yes the cylinder that’s misfiring is the one with the stuck plug.

As far as codes go, I forgot to ask what was showing and it is a V6.

As far as my mechanic goes, he might’ve done it when replacing it or he could’ve just left it as is and not change it and hoping I wouldn’t notice. I’ve taken my vehicle to him a few times already after changing the spark plugs due to misfiring starts and he said he could never find anything wrong.


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Ok. If you have been having misfires for awhile now, how long is awhile? And did such occur before the spark plug change?

If need be, some light impact action after soaking the plug in a good penetrating oil will work. It takes time and the right hand.

Other causes for the active misfire would be the wire, coil, valve, low compression, head gasket, and injector.
 
I’ve been having misfires prior to the spark plugs being changed, maybe since the beginning of the year.

I’ve also had the coils changed recently. As far as head gaskets no I haven’t changed them yet.


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I’ve been having misfires prior to the spark plugs being changed, maybe since the beginning of the year.

I’ve also had the coils changed recently. As far as head gaskets no I haven’t changed them yet.


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So there is another problem, prior to the spark plug change, which the mechanic may or may not have FUBARED in installing them.

How old are the wires?
 
have you disclosed what you have in mind? link?
As far as what I'm looking for? I just want to make sure I understand what you're asking.

Ideally, a clean, non-running 3rd gen with auto and full fender flares. Mileage doesn't matter.
 
As far as what I'm looking for? I just want to make sure I understand what you're asking.

Ideally, a clean, non-running 3rd gen with auto and full fender flares. Mileage doesn't matter.

Being careful not to hijack this thread.... but I was just curious what your project is. Sounds like a motor swap which piques interest. I thought maybe you discussed this already somewhere.
 
Swap coils around to see if misfire follows?
Try a new ECM?
Spark plug wires good?
Misfire all the time or cold....hot...under load.....idle?

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2005 4Runner I recently bought was having random misfire codes for a while also. End result? Timing chain broke possibly causing valve damage. Do yourself a favor, with your mileage, replace the timing belt set. This one broke at 250K and not a spot of sludge in this engine, it was pretty well taken care of. You're belt driven, do you know the history or when the belt was last changed? If not, do it now before it costs you your engine.
 
So there is another problem, prior to the spark plug change, which the mechanic may or may not have FUBARED in installing them.



How old are the wires?



Wires are fairly new too. It was replaced the same time as the plugs. I did during the major tune up.


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If you're mechanic doesn't know what a helicoil is... get a new mechanic.



The new mechanic did mention that he can put a helicoil on it but he just wasn’t sure if it would work.

Just wondering if the spark plug in question is the major culprit in my engine’s misfire during start up or could my engine actually be going out too. That’s my dilemma. Still love this vehicle. But do I want to keep on putting money into it or is the money better spent in buying a different vehicle? Preferably used since I can’t afford a new vehicle at this time


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