Replace Throttle Body! Dealer BS?

starflt

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I have a good friend with a 2000 SR5 3.4 V-6 and 73,000 miles on the clock. Their CEL light has been on and off intermitteltly for several months. Recently, the idle began dropping while stopped, and actually stalled a coupld of times.

We took the Runner to Autozone where they ran the codes. The only code that came up was for throttle position. Rather than buying one of their parts, I called the local Toy dealer and inquired into the cost of having them replace the sensor, as I understand there is some adjusting required. They quoted $350.00 complete. Not too bad.

We took the truck in, only to be advised that the entire throttle body needs replacing at a cost of $1100.00. The explanation: although the sensor is throwing the code, it is indicating that the shaft which controls the opening of the butterfly valve is worn (at 73,000 miles???????????) and is allowing for play as much as .001" or .002" and that is causing the computer to apply the wrong fuel mixture. Replacing the throttle position sensor along won't solve the problem, according to them.

Please help! Is this typical dealer BS, or is there some truth to this? I can't believe the butterfly shaft is so worn at only 73,000 miles that it is causing these problems. Also, .001" or .002" is a minute difference in the opening. I'd have to believe that it comes with that much tolerance from the factory brand new! Thanks.
 
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Well, from my experiences with throttle bodies and the sensors( IAC, TPS, and MAP) I can tell you this. Remove the throttle body and clean it very good with throttle body cleaner. Then replace your sensors. I usually just go to a junk yard for the sensors, you can usually get them for next to nothing, like $10-$15 or If you cant find them at a junkyard near you try looking online for someone selling a throttle body with all the sensore intact. I had the exact same problem before with a Jeep GC. I would stall at a stop and would also stall if you turned the A/C or Heat on. It turned out to be the IAC sensor.
 
Thanks for the advise. How difficult is it to remove and replace the throttle body? I've never done it before. Know of any good write-ups on the subject?
 
Its fairly simple. You start by disconnecting lines,wires and plugs, then disconnect the throttle cables, then once you have everything disconnected from the throttle body itself you remove the bolts that hold on the throttle body to the intake manifold.. You will need to replace the gasket ($2) when you go to reinstall. If you need further help, I can give you a step by step write up tommorow.
 
dealer bs

you're definitely getting BS from the dealer about the throttle body. i got the same line from my dealer and i got out of there as quickly as i could. i cleaned the throttle body and my engine is running so much smoother and the cel stopped popping up. i think you'd really have to try to mess things up when cleaning it. it's fairly straight forward....unbolt everything, clean and re-attach. just remember the new gasket.
 
Replacing TPS

To continue on with the saga. I talked with a couple of independent mechanics who also said I'm most likely getting a load of dealer BS about having to replace the entire throttle body. They also told me I could replace the TPS myself.

Reading some internet write-ups, it sounds like to replace the TPS requires adjusting afterwards using feeler gauges and an ohm meter, Frankly, I don't own an ohm meter, and have never used one. The write-ups look complicated.

Just how tough is it to replace the TPS?

BTW, up to this point, I have cleaned the throttle body (on the engine), and the MAF sensor. Both were filthy. This improved the running condition of the engine, but the CEL is still lit, and at times the idle RPMs when the engine is in gear still vary to the point where the engine wants to quit.

Thanks for any input.
 
clear the code

Once a code or check engine light appears, I believe it will stay in place until removed.

So to see if your cleaning helped out, you need to reset the code to blank. Then see if the check engine light returns.

I have heard various theories on the best way to do it. I believe one of the simpler ones is to to disconnect the battery-some length of time.

I don't have the specifics-so I won't make them up. I read about these things I am no mechanic....

Search for something like "clear a code" "clear the CEL" or

"reset code" .
 
instead of disconnecting the batt, you can pull the 15a efi fuse for 30 sec like on the 2nd gen trucks. Buy the tps and replace it. On the 3rd gens, you dont even need to adjust them. The screw holes are only big enough for the screws so you dont need to set them. The tps is only about $65 so $350 to replace a tps is major BS and replacing the tbody is even bigger BS. All you need is a phillips screwdriver and about 5 minutes. Just make sure it goes on how it came off. It will rotate down once the screws are out. The new one will go back on as the old one came off. easy stuff
 
Last edited:
toytech76 said:
instead of disconnecting the batt, you can pull the 15a efi fuse for 30 sec like on the 2nd gen trucks. Buy the tps and replace it. On the 3rd gens, you dont even need to adjust them. The screw holes are only big enough for the screws so you dont need to set them. The tps is only about $65 so $350 to replace a tps is major BS and replacing the tbody is even bigger BS. All you need is a phillips screwdriver and about 5 minutes. Just make sure it goes on how it came off. It will rotate down one the screws are out. The new one will go back on as the old one came off. easy stuff

I appreciate the feedback. I couldn't find the efi fuse, but did find a 7.5 amp OBD fuse in the box under the hood. Is that the one? If not, can you please tell me where the efi fuse is on the 3rd gen truck?
 
thanks toytech76

nice to have guys like toytech76 around with some real knowledge.

thanks for that TPS info. and code clear method

Do you all agree that after a symptom is diagnosed and a repair is attempted- the code should be cleared to gauge the effect of the repair?

just making sure-I am pretty sure you are confirming same by telling us a better way to do it.....

You were the dealership mechanic in CA for 7 or 9 years or am I mixing you up with someone else?
 
Re: thanks toytech76

Ron Helmuth said:
nice to have guys like toytech76 around with some real knowledge.

thanks for that TPS info. and code clear method

Do you all agree that after a symptom is diagnosed and a repair is attempted- the code should be cleared to gauge the effect of the repair?

just making sure-I am pretty sure you are confirming same by telling us a better way to do it.....

You were the dealership mechanic in CA for 7 or 9 years or am I mixing you up with someone else?

Absolutly. As soon as a repair is made the code should be cleared. Especially since some codes throw the ecu into safe mode and the eng wont perform correctly.
I worked at a dealer for a couple years..yuk. I have worked for an independant shop for the last 8 years that only specializes in toyota/lexus, honda/acura. I am mostly on the toyota side. I dont like working on the hondas that much. I also do a ton of sidework out of my house for friends and people they refer to me. Ive also worked on a few t4r members and yotatech members trucks
 
Tps

Does anyone know where I can order a TPS on line? I have a 2002 SR5 and cannot find a TPS anywhere with matching numbers for the one that was on the when I pulled off the throttle body.

Shawn
 
Just a heads up, there's a post somewhere about fixing the worn throttle body shaft for like $5 in parts, it's just a few washers or something. I can't remember if it was on T4R or YotaTech or something. But it's a guy who pulled his, and could visibly see that the butterfly was offset. Couple washers later and he was good to go.
 
so code says its the tps
but a IAC can cause idle issues too, and cleaning the throttle body, can at times gunk up the IAC

it may be worth your time, if your removing your throttle body and if your ordering a gasket for the throttle body mount, it may be worth ordering your IAC gasket, and when your doing a deep cleaning your Throttle body (while its off) and replacing your tps, remove and clean your IAC
just a few more minutes of work when the throttle body is off. Hours of work when its not.

just a thought
 

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