Replacing Ball Joints: Get Grease Fittings?
- Thread starter tbryanh
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You should get factory toyota ball joints, and only factory toyota.
Yoter
New member
You should also try and search before making a thread!
This topic has been covered 10000000000000000000 times.
Just in the last few days there is a detailed thread discussing exactly the question you are asking.
>>>>>>>>http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/230389-lbj-grease-zerk.html<<<<<
Not trying to be a dick but this topic is probably the most covered topic on the site
This topic has been covered 10000000000000000000 times.
Just in the last few days there is a detailed thread discussing exactly the question you are asking.
>>>>>>>>http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/230389-lbj-grease-zerk.html<<<<<
Not trying to be a dick but this topic is probably the most covered topic on the site
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How about a link? I am a super lazy troll.
you might consider the cheapest possible LBJs from your local Texas-Chinese parts store if you're up for some hardcore excitement.
edit: i'm a dick even when i don't try.
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meRockboost
New member
Moogs are good. Torque the bolts the 4 bolts to 24 ft-lb, big one to 33 ft-lb and test the suspension by running into a curb at 7-8 mph. And you don't need an alignment after lbj either.
RS Dude
Member
You should do EXACTLY as I did: Buy LBJ Moogs, then after they wear out at around 10k miles, do the job over again with Toyota OEM!:cry2:
The boot is replaceable on most BJs. The problem is sourcing the right size boot. No one ever sells just the boot because there's not much money to be made there.
LBJ with zerk, drain?, H, L markings
What LBJ do I have on my 3rd Gen 4Runner? They have no markings cast except for an H and L. These are 1 year old.
Boot has number 20832-360-N
I guess I'll be replacing the LBJs soon with OEM, or Tacoma?
In the meantime, what kind of grease to use on these? Is that a relief drain? Do I keep pumping until clean grease comes out there?
Thanks
What LBJ do I have on my 3rd Gen 4Runner? They have no markings cast except for an H and L. These are 1 year old.
Boot has number 20832-360-N
I guess I'll be replacing the LBJs soon with OEM, or Tacoma?
In the meantime, what kind of grease to use on these? Is that a relief drain? Do I keep pumping until clean grease comes out there?
Thanks
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pluton
Senior Member
Super Lazy Troll would be a great screen name.
dirteater4
New member
I've got 42,000 on my moog's. They came with zerx fittings. I grease them maybe once a year.
turbo8
Member
Good Luck!
dogtail
New member
I've got factory original sealed ball joints with 318K on them.
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Huskie
Junior Member
Mine had originals as well at ~300K miles until last month but I just decided spending a few hundred bucks was worth more than risking my neck. The old ones still seem like they're in decent shape, no tears, no leaks, no play. I'm holding on to them as emergency backups.
dogtail
New member
I hear ya. Just showing the longevity of sealed oem ball joints as opposed to aftermarket with grease fittings. Has been as good on my other 3rd gens and tacomas also. I'll be rebuilding/upgrading the front end so my long lived ball joints will be coming out.
AntleredRuin
New member
Go OEM only on ball joints.
Although, to be honest, I never much got the point of greasable parts. Having a part with a grease zerk just necessitates the need to grease it.
If there's no zerk, grease can't leak out (unless the boot is broken, in which case you'd want to replace it). If you have a grease part, and neglect to grease it, you risk running dry and killing the part that much faster. Running dry a greasable part usually voids the warranty because you didn't do your part on maintenance. Get a sealed unit with a good warranty, and don't worry about it.
Although, to be honest, I never much got the point of greasable parts. Having a part with a grease zerk just necessitates the need to grease it.
If there's no zerk, grease can't leak out (unless the boot is broken, in which case you'd want to replace it). If you have a grease part, and neglect to grease it, you risk running dry and killing the part that much faster. Running dry a greasable part usually voids the warranty because you didn't do your part on maintenance. Get a sealed unit with a good warranty, and don't worry about it.
