Has anyone had their entire brake line system replaced? If so, did you DIY or ended up taking it to a shop? Just wondering how much it may end up costing and if it's just worth it to replace all lines at the same time. I'm in the rust belt and the rear right line ended up failing, it seems OEM's brake lines have some sort of coating on the majority of the line, but at the ends, there's nothing and that's where it failed.
Replacing Brake Lines
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ArthurKotb
Member
Brake fluid absorbs moisture so after a while they will start rusting from the inside. Changing all your brake fluid every few years will help prevent the rusting.
I had a '91 Camry that had a rusted brake line. Got in one day and stepped on the brake, went to the floor. I saw a puddle of fluid on the ground next to the wheel. I jacked it up and sure enough, the line was rusted. That was pretty good service for a 29 year old car with the original fluid. I never changed it.
I took it to my repair shop and the estimate was $800, which included replacing brake calipers where the bleeder screw had seized and rusted fuel lines.
The car sat so close to the ground I could barely get under it. The brake lines ran in channels near and under the gas tank on that side. It was going to be a LOT of work. The car was worth $300, I had gotten my money's worth out of it so I donated it to Goodwill.
I replaced brake lines on my boat trailer. I got the right sized brake line and a flare tool kit off Amazon. There was very little bending of the lines so I didn't need a special tool for that. It was going to be a lot worse to do the car. I loved that car and seriously considered it for a few days before letting go.
I would have them repair the brake line and also change the brake fluid. If it were easy enough to reach the bad line and if you are handy at doing mechanical things you might consider doing it yourself. If you have AAA you can get them to tow it to a repair shop if you mess it up, or give up. I've been down that road too.
I had a '91 Camry that had a rusted brake line. Got in one day and stepped on the brake, went to the floor. I saw a puddle of fluid on the ground next to the wheel. I jacked it up and sure enough, the line was rusted. That was pretty good service for a 29 year old car with the original fluid. I never changed it.
I took it to my repair shop and the estimate was $800, which included replacing brake calipers where the bleeder screw had seized and rusted fuel lines.
The car sat so close to the ground I could barely get under it. The brake lines ran in channels near and under the gas tank on that side. It was going to be a LOT of work. The car was worth $300, I had gotten my money's worth out of it so I donated it to Goodwill.
I replaced brake lines on my boat trailer. I got the right sized brake line and a flare tool kit off Amazon. There was very little bending of the lines so I didn't need a special tool for that. It was going to be a lot worse to do the car. I loved that car and seriously considered it for a few days before letting go.
I would have them repair the brake line and also change the brake fluid. If it were easy enough to reach the bad line and if you are handy at doing mechanical things you might consider doing it yourself. If you have AAA you can get them to tow it to a repair shop if you mess it up, or give up. I've been down that road too.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture so after a while they will start rusting from the inside. Changing all your brake fluid every few years will help prevent the rusting.
I had a '91 Camry that had a rusted brake line. Got in one day and stepped on the brake, went to the floor. I saw a puddle of fluid on the ground next to the wheel. I jacked it up and sure enough, the line was rusted. That was pretty good service for a 29 year old car with the original fluid. I never changed it.
I took it to my repair shop and the estimate was $800, which included replacing brake calipers where the bleeder screw had seized and rusted fuel lines.
The car sat so close to the ground I could barely get under it. The brake lines ran in channels near and under the gas tank on that side. It was going to be a LOT of work. The car was worth $300, I had gotten my money's worth out of it so I donated it to Goodwill.
I replaced brake lines on my boat trailer. I got the right sized brake line and a flare tool kit off Amazon. There was very little bending of the lines so I didn't need a special tool for that. It was going to be a lot worse to do the car. I loved that car and seriously considered it for a few days before letting go.
I would have them repair the brake line and also change the brake fluid. If it were easy enough to reach the bad line and if you are handy at doing mechanical things you might consider doing it yourself. If you have AAA you can get them to tow it to a repair shop if you mess it up, or give up. I've been down that road too.
I typically do most maintenance, but given that it's pretty corroded, I may end up doing more damage and causing even more of a headache.
MikeinNH67
Senior Member
In the rust belt the salt eats them away on the outside, they become like dried up crackers in 10 to 15 years depending on how the car holds the salt. I ended up replacing every line on my truck but started on the back as those were terrible. I used the parts below and bent/flared them myself. This kind of tubing is super easy to work with (bends easily) and does not rust like the old steel lines. Do replace the rubber hoses too, they are pretty cheap and will make life easier as you're not trying to save them. One last tip, to remove the old fitting from your calipers just cut the tube flush and tap a 6 point socket on the fitting. They come off way easier than using a wrench. You can buy or rent a double flaring tool but good idea to watch a YT video on how to use it as there is some tips to getting it right.
Amazon.com: The Stop Shop 25 Ft. Roll / Coil of 3/16" (.028" Wall) Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing : Automotive
Amazon.com: The Stop Shop Metric Brake Line Invert Flare Fittings for 3/16" Tube. 10 x 1 mm (Pack of 10) : Industrial & Scientific
Amazon.com: The Stop Shop 25 Ft. Roll / Coil of 3/16" (.028" Wall) Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing : Automotive
Amazon.com: The Stop Shop Metric Brake Line Invert Flare Fittings for 3/16" Tube. 10 x 1 mm (Pack of 10) : Industrial & Scientific
fourwd1
Moderator
Yes, I've replaced them myself. Sometimes using pre-made lines of appropriate length and bending them to fit, sometimes fabbing the entire thing myself.
There is/was a place online that sold pre-made/bent lines but I can't remember who.
Yeah, I did a little digging prior and found out what you said, NiCopp lines are pretty easy to work with and the flaring tool that seems to be highly recommended isn't too expensive either (Titan 3/16 flaring tool). Were most of the lines easy to replace? Any problematic ones? And would you happen to have any part numbers on hand if you went OEM, like the rubber hoses?
On a 4th gen? Did you run into any problematic lines or were they all easy to get to?
daprotege5
Member
i was redoing the back brakes and when i went to take out the brake line it was so rusty one side wouldnt even budge. so i ended up replacing the back lines that run through the axle. best advice i found was to cut the lines right before the connection and use a 10mm socket, the hand wrench just ends up stripping them with the amount of pressure needed to snap them free. and start spraying them a day or 2 with wd40.
MikeinNH67
Senior Member
It's been a few years but I don't remember anything traumatic.
Maybe the area by the gas tank was toughest? No OEM or other part numbers, I just bought decent brands from Rockauto.i replaced my rear brake lines and hoses in the rear using the toyota part. it's plug and play. easier that way. i've included the hoses that's attached to the frame and axle. replacing those is easy but removing the rust and cleaning and painting is what i spent my time most.
Agree with changing brake fluid every 2 years. This is prescribed maintenance on German SUVs and the logic behind it is sound (brake fluid absorbs water).
If replacing brake lines, and the front calipers are original, I would replace front calipers, rotors and lines at the same time. I don't recall whether the 4th gen has calipers or drums on the rear, it's been a while since I sold our awesome 4th gen.
If the rear axle uses calipers, I would replace lines, calipers, pads and rotors in one go. If it has drums, I would replace lines and the actuation cylinder. Probably also brake shoes if it has them.
If replacing brake lines, and the front calipers are original, I would replace front calipers, rotors and lines at the same time. I don't recall whether the 4th gen has calipers or drums on the rear, it's been a while since I sold our awesome 4th gen.
If the rear axle uses calipers, I would replace lines, calipers, pads and rotors in one go. If it has drums, I would replace lines and the actuation cylinder. Probably also brake shoes if it has them.
Kryptoroxx
New member
I'm kinda looking at something like this too. I figure it's easier to replace them before they go. I have a bender, flare tool, and I've done a few small pieces on previous rigs. Never a whole system though.
Is there a particular brake line that is more resistant to rust than others? That would be the one I am interested in.
Also how much of the stuff would it take to do the whole system? I imagine it's around 50ft but I dunno.....never done the whole thing lol.
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Is there a particular brake line that is more resistant to rust than others? That would be the one I am interested in.
Also how much of the stuff would it take to do the whole system? I imagine it's around 50ft but I dunno.....never done the whole thing lol.
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ArthurKotb
Member
I have an early model '04 4Runner. They are 4 wheel disc brakes.
Do you happen to have the part #s on hand?
Nickel Copper (NiCopp) is what you'd want, they're also way easier to bend than typical steel lines. Not sure on the length, but they're not too expensive. It's around $1/ft
rdruss
Senior Member
See post above it gives links to the appropriate tubing and fittings.
unfortunately, i don't have it anymore. i checked the site where i got it from, not there anymore.
moshrider3
New member
When I did mine recently, I purchased OEM lines from an online dealer, if you can take the time to figure out the diagrams and which lines you’ll need, it makes it easy putting them in. I figured I got about 20 years out of the originals so why not use the same. Another option is to get the nickel copper lines and a flaring kit.
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Do you still have the info on the dealer you used? I tried finding the diagrams, but I failed.
ArthurKotb
Member
Did you look here? Click on the diagram for a larger picture. Also attaching to this reply
2004 Toyota 4Runner SR-5 Sport Edition 4.7L 4WD Brakes and Suspension Parts | Toyota Parts Center Online
2004 Toyota 4Runner SR-5 Sport Edition 4.7L 4WD Brakes and Suspension Parts | Toyota Parts Center Online
