**Rickashay's OME vs. TRD Tundra/LC Review**

if you have the 2001/2002 low-rider, then the 1999-2000 tall coil springs will give you a 2" lift. If what you have is 1996-1998, then it will give a 1" lift

Startiing to sound like I need 99 talls, or OME coils, if I just want 2-3". Was hoping for used oem coils to save money though. Fronr sounds like bilys will be ythe ticket either way, can I use them with stock on higher perch for lift?,

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Got this setup installed. Tundra coils in front (06 TRD double cab) 891's in the rear. 3rd notch up front with ARB, winch and skids..

Couldn't be happier, quit thinking about it and get these shocks.

More info once I switch my fronts around (the coils are side specific &#^%@!)
 
Thanks! I WAS running on the 2nd perch before I got my bumper/winch. If you want close to 2" of lift, without bumpers, I'd run the 2nd perch. I think the 1st notch would yield 1.25-1.5" of lift. But it depends where your starting point is ie. year of t4r.

I'm rolling a '99 limited w/ bout 20 1/2" hub to well (unscientific).
 
I'm rolling a '99 limited w/ bout 20 1/2" hub to well (unscientific).

Same on my '99 SR5, 20 1/2" give or take 1/8".
So the way I'm understanding this is, someone correct me if I'm wrong. If I go Tundra coils in the front, LC 7 wraps in the rear and Tundra Billies all around I'll end up hub to well, ~22 1/2" in the front and ~22 1/2-23 1/2" in the rear.
 
No one will know what you lift will be, all are different. Expecially if you use used springs. They can be worn more than others. Ive seen people put new 7 wraps in and get 4" lift, I got 3.5" with my bew 7 wraps and people somtimes only get 3" lift on used 7 wraps. It all depends on the spring and situation.
 
Thanks for the reply. I guess I'm still wraping my brain around how to do what I want to do and keep the new suspension at or under 3" lift.
 
Thanks for the reply. I guess I'm still wraping my brain around how to do what I want to do and keep the new suspension at or under 3" lift.

I hear ya. I don't want the reported harshness of OME rear coils but there aren't any options I can find that are between 2 and 2.5 inches except the OME.
 
I hear ya. I don't want the reported harshness of OME rear coils but there aren't any options I can find that are between 2 and 2.5 inches except the OME.
Part of the problem with my OME setup was the rear OME shocks. I have heard that the results are WAY better with some Bilstein 5100's and OME 890, but that's all I will say as I have no first hand experience with that setup.
 
Part of the problem with my OME setup was the rear OME shocks. I have heard that the results are WAY better with some Bilstein 5100's and OME 890, but that's all I will say as I have no first hand experience with that setup.

Were they under or over dampened and was it on compression or rebound, or both?
 
I hear ya. I don't want the reported harshness of OME rear coils but there aren't any options I can find that are between 2 and 2.5 inches except the OME.

I have the Tundra shocks with OME 891's. Not harsh. Harsher than the 7 wraps and Tundras, possibly, but compared to the OME891 OME N86 setup I had, it rides like a caddy, AND I can still put weight (think dirt bike hitch rack) in the back without everything going to shit.

The OME shocks are the problem. Rarely will coils make your ride harsh, unless you are WAY oversprung. Think of it this way, coils hold the weight, shocks make the ride.
 
The OME shocks are the problem. Rarely will coils make your ride harsh, unless you are WAY oversprung. Think of it this way, coils hold the weight, shocks make the ride.

2 things: on the springs, I was thinking the rate was far too high, thus they didn't even compress much at all, so the vehicle traveled up over bumps instead of the wheel traveling up.

Second, can you comment on the Tundra rear shocks, mainly, the lower bushings and upper stud diameter, did you have to replace the lower bushing with the 0.75" size and is the upper stud the same diameter as stock or did you have to drill out the upper mounting hole? TIA
 
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2 things: on the springs, I was thinking the rate was far too high, thus they didn't even compress much at all, so the vehicle traveled up over bumps instead of the wheel traveling up.

Second, can you comment on the Tundra rear shocks, mainly, the lower bushings and upper stud diameter, did you have to replace the lower bushing with the 0.75" size and is the upper stud the same diameter as stock or did you have to drill out the upper mounting hole? TIA

For the rear shocks, yes you had to use the different bottom bushing. It wasn't an issue for me, there is a tutorial on how to replace that somewhere, it was very easy. The upper mount just bolted in with the supplied bushings, no drilling required.
 
What would be the result if I used the 99 T4R stock coils with the new Bilstein struts? Has anyone experimented or do you know the suspension formula? I don't. Thanks.
 
Got this setup installed. Tundra coils in front (06 TRD double cab) 891's in the rear. 3rd notch up front with ARB, winch and skids..

what rear shocks are you running with those 891's?

Second, can you comment on the Tundra rear shocks, mainly, the lower bushings and upper stud diameter, did you have to replace the lower bushing with the 0.75" size and is the upper stud the same diameter as stock or did you have to drill out the upper mounting hole? TIA

Top of the shocks bolt in same as normal. Bottom eyebolts are super easy. 4 wheel parts local to me carried the larger bushings. I was in-n-out (man I'd love a double double) in under 5 minutes. Bushings took even less time to install into the shock bodies.


I have the Tundra shocks with OME 891's. Not harsh. Harsher than the 7 wraps and Tundras, possibly, but compared to the OME891 OME N86 setup I had, it rides like a caddy, AND I can still put weight (think dirt bike hitch rack) in the back without everything going to shit.

The OME shocks are the problem. Rarely will coils make your ride harsh, unless you are WAY oversprung. Think of it this way, coils hold the weight, shocks make the ride.

Springs absolutely will affect ride quality. Of course the springs rate & shock dampening capabilities should be matched to each other and to the vehicle. The higher the spring rate, the more the spring transfers the load into the chassis for the amount of force applied.

This is an overly simplified example, but lets imagine that you have two different rear springs, one is a 30in/lb spring, the other is a 100in/lb. This rating means that the spring will move one inch when the specified weight is applied.

So, first spring is installed (30in/lb) and 30lbs of force is applied 1 inch upward on the spring. the spring will move up one inch and the chassis (theoretically) will not be affected.

Now the 100in/lb is installed but the same 30lbs of force is applied 1 inch upward. Because the spring is wound tighter, it does not compress by a measly 30lbs of force, and therefore the top of the spring moves upwards an amount (probably not the full 1 inch). Since the top of the spring pushes up on the chassis, it is now pushing up on the chassis. Chassis pushes up on your seat, and your seat pushes up on your butt making your ride less pleasurable.

My track car runs very high spring rates and the car is just unbearable on the street. You can feel every pebble on the road in detail, so expansion joints/winter repairs/crap roads feel like they are going to split the car in two!

Hope this helps!:cheer2:
 
This is an overly simplified example, but lets imagine that you have two different rear springs, one is a 30in/lb spring, the other is a 100in/lb. ..............

Your example makes perfect sense, but I don't think the difference in spring rate on the 891, 890, and LC coils are that vastly different (as a 3/1 ratio in your example). There is some truth, I feel, to the shocks making a big difference.
 
what rear shocks are you running with those 891's?


The same tundra shocks Rickshy posted in his first post.


Springs absolutely will affect ride quality. Of course the springs rate & shock dampening capabilities should be matched to each other and to the vehicle. The higher the spring rate, the more the spring transfers the load into the chassis for the amount of force applied.

This is an overly simplified example, but lets imagine that you have two different rear springs, one is a 30in/lb spring, the other is a 100in/lb. This rating means that the spring will move one inch when the specified weight is applied.

So, first spring is installed (30in/lb) and 30lbs of force is applied 1 inch upward on the spring. the spring will move up one inch and the chassis (theoretically) will not be affected.

Now the 100in/lb is installed but the same 30lbs of force is applied 1 inch upward. Because the spring is wound tighter, it does not compress by a measly 30lbs of force, and therefore the top of the spring moves upwards an amount (probably not the full 1 inch). Since the top of the spring pushes up on the chassis, it is now pushing up on the chassis. Chassis pushes up on your seat, and your seat pushes up on your butt making your ride less pleasurable.

My track car runs very high spring rates and the car is just unbearable on the street. You can feel every pebble on the road in detail, so expansion joints/winter repairs/crap roads feel like they are going to split the car in two!



True, you are correct. I was trying to simplify a little because, as a general rule on this site, we are comparing apples to apples IE not 30 ft/lbs to 100 ft/lbs. Generally you just need to select how much weight you want to carry. It can be very easy to get bogged down in numbers and specs which for the most part here (for this exact application), if you go with a proven setup the average user wont even notice.
 
I've been running Tundra TRD strut assemblies w/ .25" top plate spacers for about a year and have been extremely unhappy with the ride. I just installed a set of Tacoma Bilstiens with the ToyTec Eibach coils up front and kept my 890's out back, and the improvement is tremendous.

It should be noted that I didn't have the cool Tundra struts, I had the straight rate coils from a 2005 V8 4X4 Access Cab truck and some parts store truck shocks out back (rear shocks were on the 4rnr when I bought it). The ride was very harsh even with P-rated tires.
 
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Is anyone running the Bilstein & TRD Tundra/ LC 7 setup on a '99 limited? How's the lift? What about stock 4runner springs with the Tundra billies? Sorry for the noob questions. What can I say, :hungry: I'm a noob.
 
Have a set of 1999-2006 Tundra rubber coil isolators. Was going to use TRD coils but decided on Eibachs after I ordered these.

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I only just now looked at them for the first time, never unwrapped or touched them. $20 shipped.
 

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