rickashay
New member
LAST UPDATED FEB 2015
I have been talking about making this thread for a while, and the time has come to actually do it. I have been seeing WAY too many new "lift threads" and we need to do something to make it easier and less conflicting for people who are searching for information. I almost don't blame people for starting new threads because even if you did do a search, you would be returned with 100000000 lift threads to read through, all with conflicting and opinionated information. I know SCRunner is planning on updated the LIFT FAQ thread, or maybe he has already. Hopefully he can link this thread to that one in order to give people more information on the two suspension setups I will talk about below. I have tried to be as comprehensive and factual as I can, but I am sure some of my opinions will still shine through.
OME vs. TRD/LC
Keep in mind there are several variations of each lift, mostly varying in coils. Which will give different spring rates and/or lift heights.
1) OME LIFT
Earlier this spring, I purchased a semi-used OME lift. The front and rear coils were very lightly used and I purchased new OME shocks from ToyTec. The exact lift specs were as follows:
Price: $699 from Toytec not including diff drop or panhard drop.
Front:
OME 881 coils (NO top plate spacers)
OME 90004 Sport shocks(despite what my build thread states, it is incorrect)
Rear:
OME 890 coils
OME 60028 Comfort ride shocks
After some settling the truck sat with these measurements from Hub-to-wheel-well:
F: 21.5"
R: 22.75"
Before I go into too much detail about ride quality, I will describe the weight affecting mods on my truck at the point of running each suspension setup. During my OME days the truck carried the following: stock skids, front D-Ring hangers and D-Rings (negligable), Stubbs HD-SKO sliders, no trailer hitch, rear seat bottoms deleted, and a Thule roof basket, and my spare Goodyear MTR on a split 6 stock 16" rim mounted underneath. So overall, my truck sat probably lighter or close to most stockers. Sorry no exact scale weights!!
Onroad Manners: The OME setup was definitely stiffer, as you all know, than the stock suspension. I dont have the spring ratings (SCRunner said he was going to put them into the LIFT FAQ??) but I can tell you that it is rough driving around town everyday. After the novelty of "having new suspension" wore off, I realized infact how harsh the OME setup was on my DD 4Runner. I thought I would get used to it, but I never did. Unloaded the rear of the truck would almost jump or hop when going over large bumps. It was definitely meant to have weight in it all the time. The rear seemed very unmatched to the front. That being said, I was always very happy with the OME 881 and 90004 front setup. It was stiffer than stock but not too bad, for sure softer than the rear... actually perfect IMO. However, on the highway I really didnt mind the OME setup. Keep in mind I dont run any sway bars so the added stiffness at speed was welcomed. It still had a fair amount of body roll around corners but not nearly as bad as I originally thought it would be when I first pulled the sway bars. The truck felt very planted on the highway, just with some body roll. But, it's not a racecar.
Initial unloaded rake:
20110620-IMG_9072 by Headlight Hookup, on Flickr
Unloaded (w/sleeping platform) and fully settled rake:
20110920-IMG_0268-2 by RickaShay24, on Flickr
Offroad Manners: In this department, I was also happy with the OME. I never really noticed any issues relating to "stiffness" when I was in 4-Lo and crawling on the trail. I never really do high-speed stuff so I can't comment on the OME in that regard. The only issue I had was that at full tire-lifting droop, the front coils would come into contact with my spindles (right near the upper Ball-joint)
Fully Flexed: (spindle is contacting 881 coil in these pics)
20110924-IMG_0394 by RickaShay24, on Flickr
20110924-IMG_0392 by RickaShay24, on Flickr
20110923-IMG_0277 by RickaShay24, on Flickr
Weight Capacity: The 890's held weight well, with me often packing 300-400lbs of camping gear in the truck while wheeling. The worst it sagged was to the point where it sat just lower than the 881's upfront (obviously depending how much it was loaded with). I was happy! The 881's I guess were never really tested for their weight capacity because I don't have heavy aftermarket skids upfront, or aftermarket bumper and/or winch. I have heard, the 881's DO sag with more than ~50lbs of weight upfront though.
Fully loaded:
20110624-IMG_9107 by RickaShay24, on Flickr
Other notes:
- The OME yellow paint chips pretty easy. (which is normal I guess, when getting battered with small rocks and debris) These shocks would for sure have started to rust had I left them on through our Canadian winter.
- My girlfriend hated how harsh the ride was.
2) TRD Tundra/LC LIFT
Price of Parts:
Front coils: (2x) $123.90 (www.toyotapartsales.com)
Tundra Bilstein shock "kit" (includes all 4 shocks): $370 w/optional dust boots (link: http://downsouthmotorsports.com/i-1...oyota-tundra-2wd-4wd-pre-load-adjustable.html)
Tundra coil isolators: $22 (Wheelers Offroad)
LC 8 wraps: Found them used, $30
4Runner Top plates: use your stock ones! FREE
Total: ~$672
*NOTES TO CONSIDER*: You should get an adj. panhard bar or Toytec Panhard drop bracket also. I already had the Toytec drop bracket installed from the OME lift. (~$50) Also get a diff. drop for $50. You also may need to adjust your rear bumpstops to accommodate the LC coils/shocks. Don't forget to get extended rear brake lines with this lift, I already had extended stainless steel lines installed so I'm not sure if the factory lines are long enough.
My lift setup:
Front:
TRD Tundra Coils Y/Y, Y/B
Left Coil Part Number: 48131-AF100
Right Coil Part Number: 48131-AF090
Bilstein 5100 Tundra shocks (5 adjustable spring perches; set on 2nd perch from bottom) - Front Shock Part #: BE5-6929-H0
20111022-IMG_0519 by Headlight Hookup, on Flickr
Rear:
LC 8 wrap coils with 4Runner rubber internal bumpstop (ads ~3/8" lift and does not need to be used if you want to keep it lower in the rear)
Bilstein 5100 Tundra shocks with new .75" bushings for the bottom (they came with .5") - Rear Shock Part #: BE5-A014-H7
20111022-IMG_0521 by Headlight Hookup, on Flickr
Here are the initial Hub-to-wheel-well measurements:
F: 23"
R: 24.75"
Settled Hub-to-wheel-well measurements:
F: 23"
R: 24.5"
The truck at this point, has the same static weight plus my rear sleeping platform. So now, there is an extra 60-70lbs in the rear.
Onroad Manners: The truck is obviously sitting higher and is WAY softer than before. The truck performs awesome on our bumpy, cracked pavement streets. As a DD, I couldn't be happier. The only thing is that with the added height, lack of sway bars, and softer springs, the T4R has even more body roll, not really an issue around town at slower speeds. On the highway, the soft suspension is really nice. "Rides like a Cadillac" as the saying goes. However, in the twisty mountain roads at highway speeds, it is definitely more un-settled than the OME setup. Lots more body roll and not as stable. Probably would be WAY better with the sway bars back on. Again, it's not a racecar, and I just drive slower to accommodate the lack of high-speed performance. I would say the TRD coils are very close in stiffness when compared to the 881's. But they are supposed to handle the weight of the heavy stuff way better. Just think, they were designed for a Tundra with a V8 upfront!
Unloaded rake (initial):
20111028-IMG_0524 by Headlight Hookup, on Flickr
Unloaded rake after settled: (still have sleeping platform, hi-lift, tools, spare fluids, and full size spare in rear)
IMG_0996 by Headlight Hookup, on Flickr
Offroad Manners:: The truck feels great, very good offroad, the softer setup is way more comfortable when going through the bumps. Keep in mind I'm talking, 4-LO maneuvers here and no high-speed trails. Like I said above, I really like the OME suspension offroad and going slow. The TRD Tundra/LC just seems to make everything that much more comfortable. The rear flexes like CRAZY and I am definitely going to need to lower the bumpstops though. Same point of rear rub as before, on the rear mudflap infront of the rear bumper, but now it is worse than with the OME, so I can only imagine that is due to the spring being softer and easier to compress into the wheel well. (and my aforementioned bumpstops no longer doing their job effectively) I cannot believe how much droop the LC coils have. On a couple sections of the trail the truck would stay on all 4 wheels where several other vehicles, including built FJ's were doing 2-foot high 3 wheel stands. Impressive for the 4Runner to stay planted. I did not notice any rub in the front or any weird clunk from the wider Tundra coils making contact with the steering spindle. Is it possible that my springs may just be oriented so that that don't contact the spindle? As I know others on here with this setup, do have spindle-coil contact at full droop up front. The only negative again, may be my rear shocks being a touch too soft. With a little more shock resistance, there might be just a bit less compression in the rear when going through sections with consecutive bumps, making it seems even smoother from inside. Still not sure I am willing to sacrifice the on-road "butter" for this minute detail though.
Some recent photos of this suspension setup flexing offroad:
20120702-IMG_2180 by RickaShay24, on Flickr
20120902-IMG_2658 by RickaShay24, on Flickr
20120901-IMG_2511 by RickaShay24, on Flickr
Weight Capacity:: TBA, as above. I have loaded it down a little bit for testing purposes and the LC 8 wraps do sag easier than the 890s, predictably. However, this setup has more rake, so it will accommodate the sag once fully loaded down. IMO I will take rake any day over a stiff and harsh DD.
Now having some seat time with the TRD Tundra/LC setup: the suspension holds weight better than expected, it does sag a little under load but as I mentioned above the extra rake compensates for the softer springs as they sag under load. I have no intention of going to the OME 861 coils until I ad a swing out to the rear. Even then, I may stick to the 8 wrap LC's I really love them.
UPDATE - Current stance under load
Truck Loaded from camping, full armor, suspension fully settled (approx 8 months of use), rear 4Runner internal bumpstops removed, sitting on 3rd perch upfront:
20121014-IMG_3078 by RickaShay24, on Flickr
Current Measurements (Dec.2012)
F:22.75"
R:24.25"
So, as you can see, the suspension has sagged a bit over the last couple months. Finally all that armor is bringing the truck down. I'm actually pretty happy with the measurements though. Please dont assume my number are 100% accurate as measuring from the "center" of the hub isnt exactly a "perfect" process. I'm sure they are close for reference sake, but the truck sits how it sits, regardless of what my measurements state. 35's might require a top plate spacer in the front....hmmmm
Other notes: :
**After a lot of seat time, I can honestly say the rear shocks ARE NOT bouncy. The valving is sufficient but I could see others preferring the Tokico's on a more regular basis. I LOVE the Bilsteins and I think the initial switch from the hard-as-hell OME to the Bilsteins made me unsure of the rear setup. I won't be changing out my Tundra rear Bilsteins until I go to Icon's or Walker Evans.
- The "Zinc-plated" shocks will be less prone to corrosion. Good for our Canadian winters!
- My girlfriend said that my 4Runner feels nicer than her 2005 Corolla on the road. lol
Before I got the proper bushings for the rear Bilstein 5100 shocks, I was running my spare set of OME 60027 shocks in conjunction with the LC 8 wraps. It actually felt decent, softer than the 890's and 60028's but stiffer than the LC 8 wraps and the current Bilstein's. Still, slightly too stiff for my liking.
UPDATE Feb 2015 I have got a TON of PMs regarding the rear shock bushing. I simply used a hourglass 3/4" bushing in replacement of the lower bushing that came with the Tundra shocks. Just like the one here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...s2&tag=nycfoosball-20&linkId=YEZTBCIELAIBP7LM
Apparently DSM and other companies are onto the fact that the Tundra kits are being used for the 4Runners. Above is striclty my personal experience with running this setup. I had no issues once the rear shock bushings were changed in the ~ year I drove with this setup. Regardless, if your going to buy the Tundra shock kit, do so at your own risk.
I have been talking about making this thread for a while, and the time has come to actually do it. I have been seeing WAY too many new "lift threads" and we need to do something to make it easier and less conflicting for people who are searching for information. I almost don't blame people for starting new threads because even if you did do a search, you would be returned with 100000000 lift threads to read through, all with conflicting and opinionated information. I know SCRunner is planning on updated the LIFT FAQ thread, or maybe he has already. Hopefully he can link this thread to that one in order to give people more information on the two suspension setups I will talk about below. I have tried to be as comprehensive and factual as I can, but I am sure some of my opinions will still shine through.
OME vs. TRD/LC
Keep in mind there are several variations of each lift, mostly varying in coils. Which will give different spring rates and/or lift heights.
1) OME LIFT
Earlier this spring, I purchased a semi-used OME lift. The front and rear coils were very lightly used and I purchased new OME shocks from ToyTec. The exact lift specs were as follows:
Price: $699 from Toytec not including diff drop or panhard drop.
Front:
OME 881 coils (NO top plate spacers)
OME 90004 Sport shocks(despite what my build thread states, it is incorrect)
Rear:
OME 890 coils
OME 60028 Comfort ride shocks
After some settling the truck sat with these measurements from Hub-to-wheel-well:
F: 21.5"
R: 22.75"
Before I go into too much detail about ride quality, I will describe the weight affecting mods on my truck at the point of running each suspension setup. During my OME days the truck carried the following: stock skids, front D-Ring hangers and D-Rings (negligable), Stubbs HD-SKO sliders, no trailer hitch, rear seat bottoms deleted, and a Thule roof basket, and my spare Goodyear MTR on a split 6 stock 16" rim mounted underneath. So overall, my truck sat probably lighter or close to most stockers. Sorry no exact scale weights!!
Onroad Manners: The OME setup was definitely stiffer, as you all know, than the stock suspension. I dont have the spring ratings (SCRunner said he was going to put them into the LIFT FAQ??) but I can tell you that it is rough driving around town everyday. After the novelty of "having new suspension" wore off, I realized infact how harsh the OME setup was on my DD 4Runner. I thought I would get used to it, but I never did. Unloaded the rear of the truck would almost jump or hop when going over large bumps. It was definitely meant to have weight in it all the time. The rear seemed very unmatched to the front. That being said, I was always very happy with the OME 881 and 90004 front setup. It was stiffer than stock but not too bad, for sure softer than the rear... actually perfect IMO. However, on the highway I really didnt mind the OME setup. Keep in mind I dont run any sway bars so the added stiffness at speed was welcomed. It still had a fair amount of body roll around corners but not nearly as bad as I originally thought it would be when I first pulled the sway bars. The truck felt very planted on the highway, just with some body roll. But, it's not a racecar.
Initial unloaded rake:
20110620-IMG_9072 by Headlight Hookup, on Flickr
Unloaded (w/sleeping platform) and fully settled rake:
20110920-IMG_0268-2 by RickaShay24, on Flickr
Offroad Manners: In this department, I was also happy with the OME. I never really noticed any issues relating to "stiffness" when I was in 4-Lo and crawling on the trail. I never really do high-speed stuff so I can't comment on the OME in that regard. The only issue I had was that at full tire-lifting droop, the front coils would come into contact with my spindles (right near the upper Ball-joint)
Fully Flexed: (spindle is contacting 881 coil in these pics)
20110924-IMG_0394 by RickaShay24, on Flickr
20110924-IMG_0392 by RickaShay24, on Flickr
20110923-IMG_0277 by RickaShay24, on Flickr
Weight Capacity: The 890's held weight well, with me often packing 300-400lbs of camping gear in the truck while wheeling. The worst it sagged was to the point where it sat just lower than the 881's upfront (obviously depending how much it was loaded with). I was happy! The 881's I guess were never really tested for their weight capacity because I don't have heavy aftermarket skids upfront, or aftermarket bumper and/or winch. I have heard, the 881's DO sag with more than ~50lbs of weight upfront though.
Fully loaded:
20110624-IMG_9107 by RickaShay24, on Flickr
Other notes:
- The OME yellow paint chips pretty easy. (which is normal I guess, when getting battered with small rocks and debris) These shocks would for sure have started to rust had I left them on through our Canadian winter.
- My girlfriend hated how harsh the ride was.
2) TRD Tundra/LC LIFT
Price of Parts:
Front coils: (2x) $123.90 (www.toyotapartsales.com)
Tundra Bilstein shock "kit" (includes all 4 shocks): $370 w/optional dust boots (link: http://downsouthmotorsports.com/i-1...oyota-tundra-2wd-4wd-pre-load-adjustable.html)
Tundra coil isolators: $22 (Wheelers Offroad)
LC 8 wraps: Found them used, $30
4Runner Top plates: use your stock ones! FREE
Total: ~$672
*NOTES TO CONSIDER*: You should get an adj. panhard bar or Toytec Panhard drop bracket also. I already had the Toytec drop bracket installed from the OME lift. (~$50) Also get a diff. drop for $50. You also may need to adjust your rear bumpstops to accommodate the LC coils/shocks. Don't forget to get extended rear brake lines with this lift, I already had extended stainless steel lines installed so I'm not sure if the factory lines are long enough.
My lift setup:
Front:
TRD Tundra Coils Y/Y, Y/B
Left Coil Part Number: 48131-AF100
Right Coil Part Number: 48131-AF090
Bilstein 5100 Tundra shocks (5 adjustable spring perches; set on 2nd perch from bottom) - Front Shock Part #: BE5-6929-H0
20111022-IMG_0519 by Headlight Hookup, on Flickr
Rear:
LC 8 wrap coils with 4Runner rubber internal bumpstop (ads ~3/8" lift and does not need to be used if you want to keep it lower in the rear)
Bilstein 5100 Tundra shocks with new .75" bushings for the bottom (they came with .5") - Rear Shock Part #: BE5-A014-H7
20111022-IMG_0521 by Headlight Hookup, on Flickr
Here are the initial Hub-to-wheel-well measurements:
F: 23"
R: 24.75"
Settled Hub-to-wheel-well measurements:
F: 23"
R: 24.5"
The truck at this point, has the same static weight plus my rear sleeping platform. So now, there is an extra 60-70lbs in the rear.
Onroad Manners: The truck is obviously sitting higher and is WAY softer than before. The truck performs awesome on our bumpy, cracked pavement streets. As a DD, I couldn't be happier. The only thing is that with the added height, lack of sway bars, and softer springs, the T4R has even more body roll, not really an issue around town at slower speeds. On the highway, the soft suspension is really nice. "Rides like a Cadillac" as the saying goes. However, in the twisty mountain roads at highway speeds, it is definitely more un-settled than the OME setup. Lots more body roll and not as stable. Probably would be WAY better with the sway bars back on. Again, it's not a racecar, and I just drive slower to accommodate the lack of high-speed performance. I would say the TRD coils are very close in stiffness when compared to the 881's. But they are supposed to handle the weight of the heavy stuff way better. Just think, they were designed for a Tundra with a V8 upfront!
Unloaded rake (initial):
20111028-IMG_0524 by Headlight Hookup, on Flickr
Unloaded rake after settled: (still have sleeping platform, hi-lift, tools, spare fluids, and full size spare in rear)
IMG_0996 by Headlight Hookup, on Flickr
Offroad Manners:: The truck feels great, very good offroad, the softer setup is way more comfortable when going through the bumps. Keep in mind I'm talking, 4-LO maneuvers here and no high-speed trails. Like I said above, I really like the OME suspension offroad and going slow. The TRD Tundra/LC just seems to make everything that much more comfortable. The rear flexes like CRAZY and I am definitely going to need to lower the bumpstops though. Same point of rear rub as before, on the rear mudflap infront of the rear bumper, but now it is worse than with the OME, so I can only imagine that is due to the spring being softer and easier to compress into the wheel well. (and my aforementioned bumpstops no longer doing their job effectively) I cannot believe how much droop the LC coils have. On a couple sections of the trail the truck would stay on all 4 wheels where several other vehicles, including built FJ's were doing 2-foot high 3 wheel stands. Impressive for the 4Runner to stay planted. I did not notice any rub in the front or any weird clunk from the wider Tundra coils making contact with the steering spindle. Is it possible that my springs may just be oriented so that that don't contact the spindle? As I know others on here with this setup, do have spindle-coil contact at full droop up front. The only negative again, may be my rear shocks being a touch too soft. With a little more shock resistance, there might be just a bit less compression in the rear when going through sections with consecutive bumps, making it seems even smoother from inside. Still not sure I am willing to sacrifice the on-road "butter" for this minute detail though.
Some recent photos of this suspension setup flexing offroad:
20120702-IMG_2180 by RickaShay24, on Flickr
20120902-IMG_2658 by RickaShay24, on Flickr
20120901-IMG_2511 by RickaShay24, on Flickr
Weight Capacity:: TBA, as above. I have loaded it down a little bit for testing purposes and the LC 8 wraps do sag easier than the 890s, predictably. However, this setup has more rake, so it will accommodate the sag once fully loaded down. IMO I will take rake any day over a stiff and harsh DD.
Now having some seat time with the TRD Tundra/LC setup: the suspension holds weight better than expected, it does sag a little under load but as I mentioned above the extra rake compensates for the softer springs as they sag under load. I have no intention of going to the OME 861 coils until I ad a swing out to the rear. Even then, I may stick to the 8 wrap LC's I really love them.
UPDATE - Current stance under load
Truck Loaded from camping, full armor, suspension fully settled (approx 8 months of use), rear 4Runner internal bumpstops removed, sitting on 3rd perch upfront:
20121014-IMG_3078 by RickaShay24, on Flickr
Current Measurements (Dec.2012)
F:22.75"
R:24.25"
So, as you can see, the suspension has sagged a bit over the last couple months. Finally all that armor is bringing the truck down. I'm actually pretty happy with the measurements though. Please dont assume my number are 100% accurate as measuring from the "center" of the hub isnt exactly a "perfect" process. I'm sure they are close for reference sake, but the truck sits how it sits, regardless of what my measurements state. 35's might require a top plate spacer in the front....hmmmm
Other notes: :
**After a lot of seat time, I can honestly say the rear shocks ARE NOT bouncy. The valving is sufficient but I could see others preferring the Tokico's on a more regular basis. I LOVE the Bilsteins and I think the initial switch from the hard-as-hell OME to the Bilsteins made me unsure of the rear setup. I won't be changing out my Tundra rear Bilsteins until I go to Icon's or Walker Evans.
- The "Zinc-plated" shocks will be less prone to corrosion. Good for our Canadian winters!
- My girlfriend said that my 4Runner feels nicer than her 2005 Corolla on the road. lol
Before I got the proper bushings for the rear Bilstein 5100 shocks, I was running my spare set of OME 60027 shocks in conjunction with the LC 8 wraps. It actually felt decent, softer than the 890's and 60028's but stiffer than the LC 8 wraps and the current Bilstein's. Still, slightly too stiff for my liking.
UPDATE Feb 2015 I have got a TON of PMs regarding the rear shock bushing. I simply used a hourglass 3/4" bushing in replacement of the lower bushing that came with the Tundra shocks. Just like the one here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...s2&tag=nycfoosball-20&linkId=YEZTBCIELAIBP7LM
Apparently DSM and other companies are onto the fact that the Tundra kits are being used for the 4Runners. Above is striclty my personal experience with running this setup. I had no issues once the rear shock bushings were changed in the ~ year I drove with this setup. Regardless, if your going to buy the Tundra shock kit, do so at your own risk.
Last edited:
