Rigged up driving lights: question on wiring

[Keyrunner]

Hi guys, I am a new member but a long time lurker. I am also a noob when it comes to mods. I am in the middle of working out my first real mod; my grille/light combo. I just finished wiring and testing the lights. I noticed that when I turn on my lights I can hear a slight to moderate pull on the engine. Is this normal? I do not notice any dash lights dimming or anything disrupted while the lights are on, I just don't want my novice wiring to hurt my electrical system or battery. I grounded the lights to the body ground bolt next to the battery and I am running power off of the battery aux bolt. I can post pictures later of my wiring if that helps.

Thanks in advance.


Pics below are of how it came out if anyone is interested.

 

[Doc2012]

It's normal.

Think about it. When your A/C kicks on, it draws on the engine as well, right?

When you add an extra system into the stock system, it's causing the voltage to be drawn to other stuff, therefore making the system work harder, hence the draw on the engine. All those volts that are coming out of the battery need to be replaced by something, and the engine/alternator system is what's going to have to do it.

If you notice anything crazy going on, disconnect the lights and see what happens.

As long as your interrior lights aren't dimming, your alternator and battery are good.

 

[JWaldz]

Is there an in-line fuse and/or relay on it or is it just directly hooked up to the battery?

 

[Keyrunner]

Thanks guys!

Thanks Doc2012!

ARKRWLR, yes there is an inline fuse and a dash switch. I am not sure if the switch qualifies as a relay (I am electrically uneducated). Would there be a need for a fuse block/relay set up for running these 2 lights? They are not super powerful, 55w bulbs.

 

[JWaldz]

Thanks Doc2012!

ARKRWLR, yes there is an inline fuse and a dash switch. I am not sure if the switch qualifies as a relay (I am electrically uneducated). Would there be a need for a fuse block/relay set up for running these 2 lights? They are not super powerful, 55w bulbs.

A relay would really help. It's not the same as your rocker switch. A lot of the higher end 55W+ offroad light kits like PIAA or Hella come with relays. This keeps the problem you are having from happening as well as burning up any wires. It serves for other functions as well. Not to say that you will burn up any wires, it's just a preventative. Look into it, if you feel you need it I'm sure there are wiring guides out there that make it really easy. These relays can be found at any auto parts store.

 

[Keyrunner]

Awesome! I will definitely look into this. Thanks for the help.

 

[TheDurk]

The relay is good advice. Most good rocker switches will handle the full load, but their life will be much shorter. Your lights will also get better voltage because you can place the relay between the battery and the lights allowing a dramatically shorter wire run.

Also, since the draw is small, you can power the relay coil (the circuit that goes to the switch) from your parking lights, or your high beams or any 'key on' power source, as you prefer, giving you 'automatic' control over when they come on. This can save you a dead battery.

 

[Keyrunner]

I have thought about wiring the lights so that they turn on with the fogs but I wasn't sure on the difficulty level, being as this is pretty much the most wiring I've ever done (except for running speaker wires in the living room lol). I will have to search the forum later on to find out how difficult it will be, along with finding a good relay to help out the electrical system.

I have started eyeing those OTRATTW switches or maybe even one of these Auxiliary Switches - LED Activator2 Switches By PlasmaGlow to replace the generic switch that is in right now. Has anyone had any experience with these plasma glow switches?

 

[fish0281]

Does your truck have daytime running lights (DRLs)? I posted a schematic for my light setup on my thread, follow the link in my signature.

 

[KAILUAZ]

The relay will also keep the full power from running all the way from the power source to the switch and back to the lights. IMO the shorter you keep the full load wires the better.

 

[JWaldz]

I used my Hella 55W Black Magics on my fog circuit. The factory circuit has a relay and fuse built in so it was perfect cus I didn't have my factory fog lights anymore. Plus, I didn't have to worry bout running wire to a switch. If you want some factory looking switches look no further..

These are factory switches and will work perfectly. No cutting.

Non Lighted

Lighted

I have one of each

 

[Keyrunner]

I get it now. The switch is like a little relay, right? I was just thinking about the wiring and how the fuse is between the battery and the switch. I thought 'thats stupid why not a fuse between the lights... oh, the switch'. I apologize for my noob-ish understanding of electricity.

I will do some digging tonight and locate the fog relay and see how much work it will be to switch things around. I still have working fogs, will it be a problem adding these two lights to the relay?

I liked the idea of flipping a switch in the cab (nerdy I know) but I guess I will just have to find something else to wire up to it. Maybe some foot well led's

I appreciate everyone's input and helping me have an electrical epiphany. I can say that I am now smarter because of this thread. Thanks guys.