Rigid Dually/AOB Switch Question

[jonathansdotson]

Recently hooked up some Rigid Dually lights in my ditch bracket locations. I have been using the supplied switch from Rigid but wanted a more OEM look. Ordered the AOB switch (seen in picture) to fulfill that.

I understand which wires from my AOB switch go to where (from their included diagram), but am wondering about my Rigid wiring (seen in picture). There are two red power wires, one that runs to each light. Will I have to splice both of them together, then attach them to my new switch?

Also, it is my understanding that for the switch to operate with the rest of the interior lights, it needs to be wired into another interior switch (seen in picture). From the pic, can anyone tell me which wire is power, and which is ground?

If I ground my switch onto an existing interior switch, can the Rigid wiring ground (made for the switch) be ignored?

Side note, who TF decided to make the top two switch holes (seen in picture with dimmer control and Rigid switch) a different size? Does anyone know if another size switch fits there? Almost looks the same as the Tacoma size? Weird.

Thanks for any and all help,
Jon

 

[blackoutt]

Use diagram 1 on your AOB switch instructions. Your two red wires from the lights will need to be tied together but should not go directly to the switch, you'll want to run a relay to power the the lights that is only triggered by the switch. AOB switch wiring colors do not match OEM wiring colors, best case is to test each pin in the connector you have shown to see what they do. One will be ground only (continuity to ground and will not light a test light or show any voltage when interior lights turned on/dimmed), one will be key switch power run this to AOB switch, one will be dimmed ground (tricky I know but this is how yota does it), so I don't remember but you may have to swap the gnd and dimmer/illumination wires from diagram 1. Multimeter and testing is your best friend.

 

[SAR_Runner]

Use diagram 1 on your AOB switch instructions. Your two red wires from the lights will need to be tied together but should not go directly to the switch, you'll want to run a relay to power the the lights that is only triggered by the switch. AOB switch wiring colors do not match OEM wiring colors, best case is to test each pin in the connector you have shown to see what they do. One will be ground only (continuity to ground and will not light a test light or show any voltage when interior lights turned on/dimmed), one will be key switch power run this to AOB switch, one will be dimmed ground (tricky I know but this is how yota does it), so I don't remember but you may have to swap the gnd and dimmer/illumination wires from diagram 1. Multimeter and testing is your best friend.

Balckoutt, I have been running my 30" bar and my Rigid Duallies directly off of a good quality switch without a relay and have had no issues, the lights of the past that are not LED draw a lot more, especially HID units at start up. The amp draw of the duallies is substantially less than the switches that are provided with the Rigid lights, also for what it is worth their harness is direct to the switch without a relay on all of their builds. If you are really worried about amp draw of LEDs then by all means put in a relay, but it is OVERKILL... the more important thing is to have a fuse on the main power from the battery to the hot side of the switch.

 

[blackoutt]

SARS Runner, I'm just a sheeple then I guess. Switch company calls for a relay, I put one in. Way easier to run 1 skinny trigger wire through the firewall than all the light power/ground. In this case I guess the OP already has them there. 2.2 amp draw for a pair of dually's is less than the 3 amp max for the AOB switch so should be okay direct I suppose.

 

[jonathansdotson]

Balckoutt, I have been running my 30" bar and my Rigid Duallies directly off of a good quality switch without a relay and have had no issues, the lights of the past that are not LED draw a lot more, especially HID units at start up. The amp draw of the duallies is substantially less than the switches that are provided with the Rigid lights, also for what it is worth their harness is direct to the switch without a relay on all of their builds. If you are really worried about amp draw of LEDs then by all means put in a relay, but it is OVERKILL... the more important thing is to have a fuse on the main power from the battery to the hot side of the switch.

So the best course of action would be to splice the two power wires from the lights together, then to the switch? Any insight on which wire on the existing switch (pictured) are power and which is the ground for dimming?

Also, do either of y'all know what size switch fits in those upper two switch slots?