Robb235's Front Mount Turbo Build

Ooooh shiny!

Maybe I missed it and rereading the thread doesn't produce results... what set is that and how many pennies?

What are the specs? Pre-turbo pipe size, post-turbo size, etc.


Went with the $599 kit that included manifolds and downpipe. I'm providing everything else.

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=MF-DP-5VZFE-KIT&Category_Code=tacoma-5vz

I won't get to play with my new toys much because I've got drill this weekend. After that I've got family coming into town next weekend, and then of course Christmas and New Years, and then I'm going on vacation after all that to do some snow skiing. All that to say that I probably won't be installing this stuff until sometime in January or February. But we'll see.
 
This evening I've been playing around with my manifolds and turbo like a little kid at Christmas.

One thing I was worried about was that since I'm using and adapter from vband to 2-bolt for my wastegate, I was afraid the wastegate would stick out too far and hit the downpipe. Looking at CX's pictures, it looked like it could have been a tight fit.
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Mocking it up.

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Looks like it fits!
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The cat of course had to investigate what was happening.
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I also sealed up my windshield washer fluid tank since it was leaking previously. I put some Teflon tape on the threads of the fitting, and then sealed it with E6000. You can get that stuff at Walmart in the arts and crafts section.

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I let it set up for about a week since it's been cold outside. Tonight I hooked the plastic lines back up and filled the tank up washer fluid. So far no leaks. I have the plastic line going from the tank to the pump, and then another line exiting the pump and dead ending at a point higher than the tank so that the washer fluid doesn't leak out.

Been thinking about trying water/methanol injection while still NA just to see what would happen.
 
Got my oil lines ready to go. Yesterday I assembled the lines and put the AN fittings on the hose ends.

I'll be sourcing turbo oil from the unused oil ports next to oil filter. The 3/8" plug will be replaced with a 3/8" to 1/8" bushing, and then a 1/8" to -4 AN fitting will connect to the -4 AN feed hose to the turbo. Turbo will drain to a -10 AN line back to the oil pan.

I'm wondering if I need a restrictor for the feed hose? I don't have one at the moment, but I'm thinking I should order one just in case the turbo does start smoking.

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Sweet thread! Just saw this and will be following this closely! Thanks for doing a detailed write up/discussion on the turbo build so other people can follow it. Props on going for it :D
 
This weekend I went to plumb my water/meth injection into the stock intake tube, when I realized that somehow I've lost one of the fittings I need. I looked everywhere, but couldn't find it. I know I had it at one point, because a few months ago I had the whole system set up and working in my kitchen. My wife thought I was nuts building a contraption that injected misted water into an empty milk jug. Looks like I'll have to buy another fitting. I hate paying more for shipping than the actual part itself.



So instead, I moved my boost gauge. I did have it on top of the dash, wedged against the windshield. It looked pretty ghetto. Sometimes it would roll around if I took a turn too fast. With a little bit of Velcro, I've now got it mounted down next to my power outlets. For now it only reads vacuum :(

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I use restricted oil feed flanges on my stuff now, cheaper, easier, and one piece. Build is looking good.

flange.jpg~original


F104_2.jpg~original
 
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It looks like there are some pretty turbo savy minds here so this may sound dumb but here goes.
If the MAF works by measuring the cooling rate of a heated element and there is no intercooler in the system to counteract the heat produced by compression in the turbo, would that not make the MAF think that less air is entering the system due to the higher air temp, and there fore asking for less fuel?
 
It looks like there are some pretty turbo savy minds here so this may sound dumb but here goes.

If the MAF works by measuring the cooling rate of a heated element and there is no intercooler in the system to counteract the heat produced by compression in the turbo, would that not make the MAF think that less air is entering the system due to the higher air temp, and there fore asking for less fuel?


The Intake Air Temp sensor is in the MAF, so it reads the temp of the air and balances it out.
 
Glad to see that passenger side manifold has a brace going to the turbo flange. You might consider welding up a little more support in addition to that brace. Everything I've heard about CX racing (or any chinese tubular manifold) is that the weight of the turbo eventually causes them to crack.
 
I haven't forgotten about this thread, I promise.

Aside from work during the week, most of my free time is being taken up house hunting. My wife and I are in a position to buy a house, and we're tired of apartment living. Apartment parking lots also aren't very conducive to working on my 4Runner. Installing the turbo needs to done in a garage, not outside.
 
Not turbo related, but I did do some work on my truck this weekend.

I was tired of looking at my 4Runner's saggy rear end. The Airlift 1000 did a good job leveling things out, but I wanted a more permanent solution. I ended up buying OME 906 coils, and Rancho 9000XL shocks to cure the problem.

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The Rancho 9000XL allows for adjusting how firm or soft you want your suspension, and has 9 different settings. I did some research and googled the 9000XL series shocks, and found that most people had positive things to say about them.

Out of the pair that I ordered, one of them appears to be defective. My first clue was a piece of metal lodged in one of the bushings. Not sure how it got there, or why it was even there in the first place?? I cut part of it off using a grinding wheel, and then hammered it out.

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WTF??

After getting rid of that piece of metal, the next thing I noticed was that the lower round part of the shocks were different from each other. The defective shock had a smaller circular thingy at the bottom (not sure what the technical name for that piece is??), that was both narrower and smaller in diameter. That made it unusable on my rig.

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Both shocks had the same part number stamped on them. Weird. It was definitely defective. When I released the shock, it would barely extend on its own. I'm sending it back and getting another one. For now I left the crappy Gabriel shocks in place and installed the 906 coils.

The coils did a good job of raising the rear end and getting rid of the sag. The rear end is pretty stiff, but better than the worn out '99 talls. Not sure how much of that is due to the new coils, or the crappy shocks I have on. Funny that the 906 coils are actually shorter than the 99 tall coils when unloaded.

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I haven't forgotten about this thread, I promise.

Aside from work during the week, most of my free time is being taken up house hunting. My wife and I are in a position to buy a house, and we're tired of apartment living. Apartment parking lots also aren't very conducive to working on my 4Runner. Installing the turbo needs to done in a garage, not outside.

So any updates? I want to know the quality of the cxracing manifolds before I get a set.
 
So any updates? I want to know the quality of the cxracing manifolds before I get a set.

Not yet. I'm set to close on a house April 29th. It'll be nice to work in a garage that's my own, instead of in a parking lot or my parent's garage. Hopefully I can get this stuff installed in May.
 
I love the idea of a turbo, But I feel that you might be cutting corners a bit by trying to use the stock pcm. It fundamentally does NOT understand boost, timing maps and fuel maps will not be calibrated to that effect. Yes it may run up to 7psi of boost, but it probably wont run that well, especially if you try and fool the pcm via making the maf larger.

I would just hate to see you throw all that money at it for something that wont run as well as it could... You should be able to run 10psi+ with that turbo and have some real fun using a proper engine management.

Just my 2 cents!
 
Just curious, why do you say the ECU fundamentally doesn't understand boost? The same ECU understands boost from the TRD supercharger, so I don't think the turbo is much different, as long as boost levels are comparable. I think the 1996 ECU goes into fits when it sees boost, but I think '97+ is ok. Or something like that.

I really don't think I'll ever push it past 7psi. I just want a little more power when merging, towing, hauling, etc. I also want to keep the bottom end intact as well.

I'm tossing around the idea of throwing on the 315cc Supra injectors I have, and filling up with E85. E85 generally requires 30% more fuel flow, and the Supra injectors are approximately 30% bigger... Seems like a good match?
 
Just curious, why do you say the ECU fundamentally doesn't understand boost? The same ECU understands boost from the TRD supercharger, so I don't think the turbo is much different, as long as boost levels are comparable. I think the 1996 ECU goes into fits when it sees boost, but I think '97+ is ok. Or something like that.

I really don't think I'll ever push it past 7psi. I just want a little more power when merging, towing, hauling, etc. I also want to keep the bottom end intact as well.

I'm tossing around the idea of throwing on the 315cc Supra injectors I have, and filling up with E85. E85 generally requires 30% more fuel flow, and the Supra injectors are approximately 30% bigger... Seems like a good match?

That would be a horrible idea unless you've replaced all the rubber in the system with plastic.
 
Just curious, why do you say the ECU fundamentally doesn't understand boost? The same ECU understands boost from the TRD supercharger, so I don't think the turbo is much different, as long as boost levels are comparable. I think the 1996 ECU goes into fits when it sees boost, but I think '97+ is ok. Or something like that.

I really don't think I'll ever push it past 7psi. I just want a little more power when merging, towing, hauling, etc. I also want to keep the bottom end intact as well.

I'm tossing around the idea of throwing on the 315cc Supra injectors I have, and filling up with E85. E85 generally requires 30% more fuel flow, and the Supra injectors are approximately 30% bigger... Seems like a good match?

he wants you to buy the URD fuel/timing kit its a nice little kit, I would personally say email them and ask if the kit would work with the injectors you have, and if you could buy the kit without their set of injectors. it would be worth a shot and give you a LOT more control of fuel and timing. maximizing your gains and minimizing the complete guesswork.
This is the kit I plan to buy when I turbo. let me know how well the CXRacing kit turns out, ive seen some pretty decent reviews for it. im planning to do the same thing you are, as in buying kit minus turbo bov and wastegate.
good luck with your build and I hope to be with you in the turbo club soon.:playball:
 
That would be a horrible idea unless you've replaced all the rubber in the system with plastic.

not entirely accurate. most automotive rubbers have been updated to alcohol resistant compounds. there's a few guys out there running e85 already with no problems.

It's been shown that's a myth. Many 95.5 - 04 tacoma guys are running e85 in their boosted builds, same fuel system.

You'd need both. Best would be to first research forums, then to call gadget at urdusa.com and he can steer you in the right direction. We dont have e85 up here or i'd be trying it.


I will be trying E85 myself after I get the turbo kit and URD's fuel kit.
 
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