Rotor Replacement

[RuskiE39]

Hey all,

Quick question, I bought my 4runner less than two weeks ago and have been struggling with a pulsation when hitting the brakes. Felt like it was coming from the front so I took them off and had the rotors resurfaced plus replaced the pads with Akebonos. When I watched the DIY video, the guy mentioned something about the 2 holes on the rotor and them needing to be lined up with something? That's all that was mentioned so i'm not sure how important that part of the process was and wondering if anyone can chime in.

The pulsation is not as bad now, but I'm also going to do the rears today when I get home from work. It seems like someone replaced the pads but did not do the break in procedure.

Anything else i'm missing?

Thanks.

 

[Gt4r]

Only thing I can think of is aligning the hole in the rear rotor to back then parking brake shoes off so you can take it off. The other holes I think are to assist in popping off a rotor if it seized to the hub?

Hey all,

Quick question, I bought my 4runner less than two weeks ago and have been struggling with a pulsation when hitting the brakes. Felt like it was coming from the front so I took them off and had the rotors resurfaced plus replaced the pads with Akebonos. When I watched the DIY video, the guy mentioned something about the 2 holes on the rotor and them needing to be lined up with something? That's all that was mentioned so i'm not sure how important that part of the process was and wondering if anyone can chime in.

The pulsation is not as bad now, but I'm also going to do the rears today when I get home from work. It seems like someone replaced the pads but did not do the break in procedure.

Anything else i'm missing?

Thanks.

 

[RuskiE39]

Only thing I can think of is aligning the hole in the rear rotor to back then parking brake shoes off so you can take it off. The other holes I think are to assist in popping off a rotor if it seized to the hub?

That makes more sense, is the rear much different that the fronts?

 

[Gt4r]

That makes more sense, is the rear much different that the fronts?

Not really. Just make sure to use the peep hole to turn the star nut if the rotor feels like it is hung up on something. You can use a screw driver. Dont try to force the rotor off. When you put the rotor back on remember to turn the star nut in the other direction until the rotor doesnt turn, then back it off a little so your parking brake shoe isnt making contact.

 

[fixer5000]

Anything else i'm missing?

Thanks.

always always use a torque wrench to tighten aluminum wheels. thats my 2 cents worth

 

[renau001]

The two holes are to screw in bolt to unstick rotor from hub. Technically, you’re supposed to measure runout in each position and install in position with least amount of runout. Not sure what two holes you would be aligning.

 

[RuskiE39]

Well, that's weird... the rotors look perfect to me.

/sarcasm

 

[1000MPH]

2weeks old? They aren’t even broken in. Did you bed the pads at all?

 

[RuskiE39]

That’s how I found the brakes. I hadn’t touched them before so I’m guessing not.

 

[renau001]

Front brakes - every 5k or 6 mo for visual; every 30k or 36 mo for measurements

Torque specs:
Brake caliper mounting bolts - 137 lb-ft (19mm)

Service Specs:
Pad min thickness: 1.0 mm
Rotor min thickness: 29.0 mm
Max rotor runout: 0.05 mm

Parts:
Rotors - Toyota part # 43512-60191
Pads - Toyota part # 04465-60320

Tips:
1) Measure runout 10 mm from outer edge of rotor; rotor should be installed with all 6 lug nuts torqued to 82 lb-ft when checking
2) If runout > max, check bearing play and axle hub runout normal before replacing rotors
3) If rotor stuck on hub, use an M8-1.25 bolt in holes on rotors to break it free
4) Install new rotors in position with least amount of runout
5) DIY thread
6) Paul's Travel Pictures DIY


Rear brakes - every 5k or 6 mo for visual; every 30k or 36 mo for measurements

Torque specs:
Brake caliper mounting bolts: 74 lb-ft (17mm)
Brake caliper slide pins: 65 lb-ft (17mm)

Service specs:
Pad min thickness: 1.0 mm
Rotor min thickness: 16.0 mm
Max rotor runout: 0.20 mm

Parts:
Rotors - Toyota part # 42431-60311
Pads - Toyota part # 04466-60140

Tips:
1) Measure runout 10 mm from outer edge of rotor; rotor should be installed with all 6 lug nuts torqued to 82 lb-ft when checking
2) If runout > max, check rear axle shaft before adusting/replacing rotors
3) If rotor stuck on hub, use an M8-1.25 bolt in holes on rotors to break it free
4) Install new rotors in position with least amount of runout
5) DIY thread
6) Paul's Travel Pictures DIY

 

[RuskiE39]

All 4 rotors are resurfaced and have new brake pads as of today. Will test it out tomorrow on my commute to work to see if the problem shimmy is gone. Yes, I followed the break-in procedure.