Rough Idle, Engine Sputtering, Engine Ticking, Flashing CEL

Sotovo

Sotovo

New member
As the title says, Flashing CEL, Rough Idle, Engine Sputtering, Engine Ticking as well through low to mid RPM range..not mechanical at all so i dont even know where to start lol. Just happened on the way home from work...will be going and getting checked for codes tomorrow...anyone ever had similar issues happening at the same time?
 
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i had this happen twice, first time was spark plugs fouled( just bought it).
Second i have a coil go out n i get like a spudder n flashing cell.
 
Low oil

You guys are gonna slap me. I checked my oil levels and they were really low...didnt look like completely drained but very low. Does this seem like it could be the problem? I out in a few quarts of oil and the shaking has gotten better...let it warm up for a few minutes and its seemingly idling better and revs up okay. however it seems like the truck is still shaking a bit

I put the truck in gear and reversed/drove forward and the car is still shaking a good bit. What does this sound like?
 
Start with a basic tune-up - plugs and wires. Change the oil and figure out where it's going. Could be a bad PCV valve if you are lucky, or it could be oil burning caused by wear and neglect. I would do a compression test as a measure to be sure that your engine does not have trouble in its horizon.
 
Start with coil boots, spark plug wires and spark plugs. It'll cost you about $80 if you do it yourself. You can take out the spark plugs first before buying anything and post up pictures. If there's a cylinder that's not firing (misfire) then the spark plugs will show it by being black and goopy looking.
 
T4R2014 said:
Start with a basic tune-up - plugs and wires. Change the oil and figure out where it's going. Could be a bad PCV valve if you are lucky, or it could be oil burning caused by wear and neglect. I would do a compression test as a measure to be sure that your engine does not have trouble in its horizon.
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The mechanic said he found a code for misfire on cylinder 3 - checked out the coil and sparkplug and found that the electrode on the end of the spark plug was completely broken off, he had never seen anything like this. while he had it open he ran a compression test and that cylinder was running 80 lbs, (normal is 160 lbs) but that was before he fixed the spark plug...he replaced the spark plug and the codes went away and its driving perfectly now. Do you think the compression has gone back to normal since the plug is fixed?
 
gamefreakgc said:
Start with coil boots, spark plug wires and spark plugs. It'll cost you about $80 if you do it yourself. You can take out the spark plugs first before buying anything and post up pictures. If there's a cylinder that's not firing (misfire) then the spark plugs will show it by being black and goopy looking.
Click to expand...

The mechanic said he found a code for misfire on cylinder 3 - checked out the coil and sparkplug and found that the electrode on the end of the spark plug was completely broken off, he had never seen anything like this. while he had it open he ran a compression test and that cylinder was running 80 lbs, (normal is 160 lbs) but that was before he fixed the spark plug...he replaced the spark plug and the codes went away and its driving perfectly now
 
Sotovo said:
The mechanic said he found a code for misfire on cylinder 3 - checked out the coil and sparkplug and found that the electrode on the end of the spark plug was completely broken off, he had never seen anything like this. while he had it open he ran a compression test and that cylinder was running 80 lbs, (normal is 160 lbs) but that was before he fixed the spark plug...he replaced the spark plug and the codes went away and its driving perfectly now
Click to expand...
It will probably get better, you should check it again after driving ti see if it livind back up
 
Sotovo said:
The mechanic said he found a code for misfire on cylinder 3 - checked out the coil and sparkplug and found that the electrode on the end of the spark plug was completely broken off, he had never seen anything like this. while he had it open he ran a compression test and that cylinder was running 80 lbs, (normal is 160 lbs) but that was before he fixed the spark plug...he replaced the spark plug and the codes went away and its driving perfectly now. Do you think the compression has gone back to normal since the plug is fixed?
Click to expand...

I don't think a plug will affect compression. Odds are that the broken electrode may have damaged the bore. Run a compression test again if you really want to verify. If it is running fine, then don't think too hard about it.
 
so i'm getting multiple cylinder misfires as well. i've replaced all coil packs, wires, and plugs. the maf has been cleaned and new air filter installed, and all vac lines are intact and good. the misfire is on all cylinders but #2. It looks like i may have a head gasket oil leak. what else would cause the misfire?
 
I checked my oil levels and they were really low...
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Just curious why you are referring to the engine oil as plural ?

Btw the dipstick should show a mark for cold and warm.

Glad to hear it all worked out for you.
 
When your cel flashes like that, it means that your catalytic converter is about to melt down. That is the highest priority code your computer can throw. The shuddering and shaking is obviously a misfire, most, if not all of the fuel is not being burnt and then sent to the converter to try to burn, which is its job. It cannot handle all that fuel and gets super hot trying to burn it. If that ever happens to anyone, please pull over if you can and shut the truck off so the converter can cool down.
 
RunnerandGunner said:
When your cel flashes like that, it means that your catalytic converter is about to melt down. That is the highest priority code your computer can throw. The shuddering and shaking is obviously a misfire, most, if not all of the fuel is not being burnt and then sent to the converter to try to burn, which is its job. It cannot handle all that fuel and gets super hot trying to burn it. If that ever happens to anyone, please pull over if you can and shut the truck off so the converter can cool down.
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Mines been doing that fir the months straight dd.. and previous owner now says that it happened to him also

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
 
As RunnerGunner said, if CEL flashes it is an EXTREME condition, you must left off the throttle and at least slow down till you get where you need to be. Anything else is asking for lots of trouble....Luck. :cowboy:
 
jgue467 said:
As RunnerGunner said, if CEL flashes it is an EXTREME condition, you must left off the throttle and at least slow down till you get where you need to be. Anything else is asking for lots of trouble....Luck. :cowboy:
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Mine flashes at low rpm

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stir_fry_boy said:
You most likely have a misfire, if it continues, you will ruin your catalytic converter which is not cheap. Recommend fixing ASAP.
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Well I've moved the coils, replaced the fuel injectors, and replaced plugs... still have the misfire code fir 7&8, I think it's fuel delivery, because when I changed the injectors for five minutes it ran perfectly, might pull the tank soon and check the screen, another member had that problem

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calvinv8sr5 said:
Well I've moved the coils, replaced the fuel injectors, and replaced plugs... still have the misfire code fir 7&8, I think it's fuel delivery, because when I changed the injectors for five minutes it ran perfectly, might pull the tank soon and check the screen, another member had that problem

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Did you use OEM plugs and injectors?
 
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