RPM @ Idle Question

slickwizard

New member
My idle RPM is at ~500 in park? Is anyone else seeing the decreased RPM with age or is this a problem? Seems like it used to idle around 1000 when it was new....
 
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I would guess that you are fine. If it doesnt stall or search for a idle, you're good.


Stock motors can live in the 500 to 850 rpm idle.(warm)

Cold idle is always higher to bring things into operating temps.
 
My 4.7L 2000 Tundra's idle did the same thing once she got some age on her. She mainly idles around 500+/-, which is less than when it was new...but she purrs along at that lower RPM. Doesn't skip or have any problems idling at that RPM. Otherwise she runs fine to this day - 130k+ miles, and has done her share of towing over her life. That's mainly the reason I've held on to it - it's given me no reason to trade it (and as long as all she requires is a Bank 2 Sensor 2 02 sensor every 18 months, we'll be fine).

It's also the reason I could move back into an SUV for my commuter (my new T4R). I have a solid pickup, ableit a 2WD one, didn't need to keep another one around.
 
I think I recall the spec at idle as 600 RPM or thereabouts but as others have stated, 500 RPM should be fine as long as the engine isn't "hunting" and it's a nice, smooth idle.

If I did a LOT of idling I might look into raising it simply to prevent draining the battery if I had a lot of load on the alternator while idling (since the alternator output is low at 500 RPM and any additional demand will be provided by the battery).
 
So the last few days I've been researching jumpy idling. When I was in park my idle would jump between 500 to 900 every 10-20 seconds then go back down to 500. It was like it was searching for idle. I just bought this used with 158,000 miles on it 2 weeks ago. I read a bunch of threads about cleaning the throttle body and mass airflow sensor.

So that's what I did. I got some CRC MAF and Throttle Body cleaner, disconnected the negative battery terminal to start the process of resetting the ECU, took both of them completely out and cleaned them. The back plated of the throttle body was gunked up with black gum pretty well on the edges and the walls. I suggest taking the whole throttle body off detaching the coolant lines. You lose only a few drops of coolant and it's way easier to clean in the nooks and crannies versus leaning over constantly straining your back to clean it. I also used a brass wire brush on the throttle body since brass is a soft metal and that worked well.

I buttoned everything back up, reconnected the battery (took me about an hour to do everything, wanted to make sure I reconnected everything correctly), started the engine and I let the truck set there for 30 minutes without touching anything. I wanted to see if the computer could relearn everything. Came back, sat in the drivers seat and watched the idle, the truck idled at about 700 without the needle moving a millimeter. It was nice and steady.

After watching it idle for a few minutes after it had sat for 30 minutes idling, I took it out for a drive. Acceleration was noticeably smoother. With it in drive waiting at a stop-light it would idle at 550-600 steady, A lot of times before it would search for idle even then and jump between 600-800 before the cleaning.

I don't know if this is related or not, but before the cleaning when I would accelerate mildly (ie: getting off a ramp onto the interstate), I could feel the vibration of the engine through the pedaling noticeably on hard acceleration...now when I do that the vibration is almost gone and I don't feel it. It just feels like it runs much smoother now.

In October I'm going to do some big fluid changes. Oil, all the differentials/transfer case and grease the drive shaft zerk fittings. I plan on using a fuel additive to hopefully clean up the fuel injectors. I was going to use Amsoil P.I., but read a lot of good things about GB 44K. Any recommendations?
 

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