RS3200 Question

rando said:
It's true, the engine immobilizer (standard feature on all 4runners) is the real protection for your truck. The loud and obnoxious alarm offers some protection for your belongings thought I agree, it's not much. Regardless if you have one or both systems, an intent thief CAN drive it away, if he really wants to.
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True, very true. Lo-Jack is always an option for those theives.
 
Mark86 said:
I know that all 4Runner's have pre-wiring for the RS3200+. Where is the exact location for that wiring and how long should it take to install that alarm? Also, is it hard to get to the pre-wiring? I am not sure if I should attempt it myself or have the dealer do it for me.
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All the stuff is behind/above/beside the glove box area. Installation instructions are availabe on-line here.

I just did this today. I spent about 4 hours but it could easily be done in closer to 1.

Before I installed it I also mapped out the circuit diagram for the RS3200+ to see how it compared to the standard alarm installation. The standard alarm includes an ECU that plugs into the pre-wired T5 40 pin connector. It also includes an additional horn in the engine compartment (next to the air filter0.

The RS3200+ uses the same signals on the same pins and uses the same 40 pin connector type as the factory standard alarm. None-the-less it doesn't use the factory standard connector (though it would fit). Instead it plugs into the SR5 4 pin VIP connector (Z1). All signals on Z1 are also on T5 (it's entirely redundant). The RS3200+ sandwiches itself into the 13 pin IM1 cable to cable connectors (just picks up 1 wire to implement the starter disable feature) and then taps the 40 pin T5 connector for the dash LED and the horn.

There are a few differences in functionality between the RS3200+ and the basic 4runner alarm option.

The basic alarm includes a third "security" horn. I guess this just doubles your pleasure when the alarm starts blasting. The R3200+ uses one or both (I couldn't tell) of the standard hi/low horns.

The basic alarm includes an additional trigger for the engine hood. The RS3200+ doesn't.

The R32000+ includes an additional starter disable circuit. This would slow someone who had a key with the correct chip for your car (but a different cut) from hotwiring your car. IMHO, this isn't much extra protection. I think the hood trigger is more important.

The RS3200+ includes an additional ECU and microphone to detect glass breakage. I turned this up to the highest setting and was unable to trip it. Supposedly you should be able to set it off by tapping on your driver side winow with your key. It didn't work for me but I was a bit afraid to tap too hard.

Both systems are armed and disarmed the same and both provide the same passive and active arming options.
 
Rando, thanks for the info. Was very helpful. Seems a bit complicated to do. I thought it was just a plug and use type of thing that took like 30 minutes! :dunno:
 
For the most part, it is plug and use. It's definitely NOT complicated. You just plug the alarm harness into a few connectors under the dash. And tap two wires (withe snap-on wire taps included with the kit). You then zip-tie the new harness down in several spots (you don't want it rubbing or rattling). Next you bolt down the alarm ECU and bolt and tape the GBS ECU. You tape down the microphone and then plug it into the harness. Reinstall the glove box top panel (4 screws), glove box (1 screw), under dash panel (1 screw), kick panel (1 screw), and door sill (snap on). You're done.

Like I said, you could easily do this in 1 hour (maybe less if you're not as picky about how you zip tie everything). The directions are fairly clear. The hardest part was bolting down the alarm ECU. There isn't much room to get your fingers (or a wrench) up there to reach the nut.
 
Another intereseting tid-bit. Toyota includes a limite warranty with the RS3200+. They will pay your insurance deductible if your car is stolen and not recovered or stolen and recovered with damages in excess of your deductible (upto $2500). They will pay only if you had the RS3200+ installed by a Toyota dealer or Toyota approved installer. The warranty is good for upto 1 year from the time you bought the alarm.

I guess I'm out of luck for the warranty. It's ok though, I really don't think the alarm makes it much more difficult to steal. If they really want it, this alarm isn't going to stop them. They could easily just put it up on a flad bed and roll it away.
 
Rando, now that you've installed it, what do you think of the RS3200+? Is it what you expected? Additionally, the installation manual mentions an LED that's supposed to flash, but I didn't see installation instructions on that. Does the immobilizer light function as the security LED once the RS3200+ is installed? Or is there another LED somewhere that's supposed to flash? Thanks!
 
It uses the same LED. The only difference you'll notice is that the LED will stay on solid during the 30 second activation period. After that it goes back to blinking (just like with the keyless only system) to indicate that the system is armed.

The RS3200+ does no more or less than I expected. It's a no frills alarm. My favorite part is that unless something happens, you don't even know it's there. There are no extra honks, chirps, LEDS, or remote to deal with. Using the truck with the system installed is the same as without. Get out, lock the doors, forget about it.
 
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rando said:
The RS3200+ includes an additional ECU and microphone to detect glass breakage. I turned this up to the highest setting and was unable to trip it. Supposedly you should be able to set it off by tapping on your driver side winow with your key. It didn't work for me but I was a bit afraid to tap too hard.
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I've always been afraid to tap using a key. Instead, I just use my knuckles to rap on the glass...try that to see if you can trigger the glass breakage.
 
Will do. Also, do you know which setting is up on the GBS ECU. The install manual states to start at the 9 setting and work your up. There are setting from 1 to 11. I'm at 11 now. I wonder if lower numbers are more sensitive rather than higher numbers.
 
GBS sensors if you look up info on them, are actually listening for a certain freq when glass breaks. so just rapping on glass will not set it off.

edit:

im probably wrong though.

thats how they use to be back in the 90's when i had a crimestopper rs9435 system /w remote start. if you can rap on the glass and set it off, then that may be a proxy sensor. had one of those, but they get annoying going off all the time by people/pets walking to close due to tempature fluctuations changing the settings. it could be that new GBS can detect glass tapping, whereas the older versions would only look for a certain freq that only occurs during glass breaking.
 
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Well the manual EXPLICITLY says that you can test it by hitting the window with the tip of your key with 'moderate' force. I'm not sure what moderate is but I wouldn't feel safe hitting it any harder than I did.

I tried knocking it with my knuckles and fist too. That also didn't work. My guess is that I need to turn the dial the other way (towards 1) instead of 11 and/or I'm just not hitting it hard enough. I'll debug it more the next time I need to pull some panels (parts for mirror and auto/on headlights on the way).
 
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rando said:
Will do. Also, do you know which setting is up on the GBS ECU. The install manual states to start at the 9 setting and work your up. There are setting from 1 to 11. I'm at 11 now. I wonder if lower numbers are more sensitive rather than higher numbers.
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Odd that they would have you start at 9, because you usually start at the middle. I suspect you're right -- you need to go lower in numbers to make it more sensitive.

Too bad you didn't have a chance to tune it before getting it back together.
 
jharris2 said:
Odd that they would have you start at 9, because you usually start at the middle. I suspect you're right -- you need to go lower in numbers to make it more sensitive.
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yeah that is odd......my install manual said to leave at the preset of 5....i havent been able to trigger mine by tapping the glass either....looks like the lower number is more sensitive.
 
OK, I played with it some today and lower IS NOT more sensitive. I did get it to trip with the key on the window, but only on the passenger window. I found what worked better was to grab an ordinary drinking glass from the kitchen. I sat inside the car and activate the alarm and then tapped on the drinking glass with my key. That set it off right away!

I tried the same experiment at the 1 setting and 5 setting and found it to be LESS sensitive.

As a side note, I find the best way to experiment with my alarm without pissing off my neighbors is to pull the two horn connectors. They are right up in front of the radiator and EASY to access. Now you can just watch your lights flash and hear the relays click during testing. I already know the horns work! :cool:
 
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rando said:
OK, I played with it some today and lower IS NOT more sensitive. I did get it to trip with the key on the window, but only on the passenger window. I found what worked better was to grab an ordinary drinking glass from the kitchen. I set inside the car and activate the alarm and then tapped on the drinking glass with my key. Set it off right away.

I tried the same experiment at the 1 setting and 5 setting and found it to be LESS sensitive.
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Just a thought, and you've probably already checked this. Is it possible that the microphone is mounted in a way that prevents it from hearing the glass like it is supposed to? If you have to bang really hard on the glass, then the alarm is pretty much useless.
 
It's possible, but I have it placed and angled like shown in the installation instructions. There is no doubt that the specified mounting spot is less than ideal since the mic is partiall obstructed by the lip on the duct opening on the lower dash panel. Then too, the lower duct itself is directly in front of it. There is plenty of air around and in front of it such that it ought to be able to pick up plenty of sound. None-the-less, the most sensitive setting is not too sensitive.

I don't think it's really designed to trigger if someone beats on your window. The idea is that it triggers when the window is broken. That makes a loud sound and I'm fairly certain it work in that scenario. For $5 a would be thief can invest in one of those emergency window striker/breaker things. Using one of those, it's pretty much guaranteed to break on the first shot anyhow.
 
Hate to revive an old thread but I am having problems locating one of the connectors that I believe should be in my car.

The very first connecter is listed as the "4P" connector. I can't find it! I've got the entire area disassembled yet I don't see it. Rando, is the connector under some black tape?

I'll keep searching, but if you remember, please let me know...thanks!
 
Hmm...I only vaguely remember the install. I'll have to take a look at the install procedures when I get home to more accurately refresh my memory.

I believe the big 40 pin connector is on the left side, kind of hard to reach. There was some sort of smallish connector on the right side kick panel area...I think that was the 4P one??? IIRC, that one was taped back but definitely still visible. The other two connections are created by disconnection one of the junction block connectors at the back. The alarm harness just sandwiches itself in between those connectors to pick up the starter kill line.

That's about all I recall at the moment...some of it could be wrong. I do recall that I didn't have any problem finding the connectors. The hardest part was getting the bolt/nut on tight on the alarm ECU. The way it bolts in makes it almost impossible to get a wrench in there.
 
Upon further review...

I already have an ECU connected! Imagine my surprise when after giving up on finding the smaller 4P connector I located the 40P connector not taped up, but actually installed into an ECU in the exact location as the one I was going to install.

So, best I can tell (after setting off the alarm from inside the car) the only thing I don't have is the GBS. I wonder if there is a separate kit just for that???

I can post shots if you are interested.

Thanks again!
 
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