Rubbing with 33's and 3in lift :(

[Scramble]

Thank you for your replies, experience, and info, it has put things into perspective. I'm reluctant to just start "hammering" and my yota to make tires fit. Not "knocking" those who do though, by all means. Just seems like I'll be trying to make something fit that shouldn't. I'm really considering 32's as a good medium. Highly doubt they would rub and I don't think I'd miss the inch.

Not all "33's" are the same size. Different brands, A/T's, M/T's, 16 or 17" wheels, backspacing etc will make a difference. My tires are actually 32.8". Some tires are going to be 33.4". I put a 1" body lift in before my 3" suspension lift & All-Pro UCA's so I wouldn't have to pound any metal.

 

[BrianSD_42]

I do not have wheel spacers.

Great, that's one down. Is your sway bar attached?

When I had 33s and 1" BL but still stock UCAs I found that with the sway bar off I'd get some rubbing on the UCAs around turns, with it on NP.

I saw you mentioned the pinch welds as the primary rubbing spot, for me it was the spacers plus wider 285 (33s) that caused the rubbing.

 

[Unner]

Like snow junky said lifting a truck doesn't make you clear tires. Your suspension still has the same cycle of movement.

Easy fix is big body lift, or going to 32's if you're dead set on not touching the pinch welds. Here's how I clearanced my pinchwelds for my skinny 33's. I run wheel spacers though so they're probably equivalent to your 285's in regards to the amount of rubbing.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...d-2001-toyota-4runner-4x4-38.html#post2701069

^^Link to my build with write up on pinch weld mod.

 

[That_One_Guy]

I used to have the rough country 3 inch lift with 33s and rubbed the same way. It turns out the front lift does not lift it 3 inches, i ended up buying these new coilovers from toytec/eibach. Now I have no more rubbing.
TTEBCS - Toytec/Eibach Complete Front Coilovers - 3" Lift

 

[s20004runner]

Hello, 2000 4Runner Limited. Have a 3in Rough Country lift with 33s (LT285 /75 R16), I also got aftermarket rims that are 8in wide with 16 X8.5 6-139.70 -6.

Everything looks GREAT! But am I rubbing badly in reverse on the back corner / pinch weld. I am reluctant to smash or cut the weld. Two options:

1 - get 32's instead
2 - get a 1in body lift

Question is, if I go with 32's or the 1 in lift, will I clear with this setup? Here are the exact rims and tires:

https://www.discounttiredirect.com/buy-wheels/level-8-strike-6/p/62107

https://www.discounttiredirect.com/buy-tires/bfgoodrich-all-terrain-t-a-ko2/p/10373

Man does it look sharp. Rubbing is unacceptable though Thanks for the input.

hammer that pinch weld in - very easy - plus if you don't want 1' body lift, I did 1/2 inch body lift.

 

[rkntoy]

Like snow junky said lifting a truck doesn't make you clear tires. Your suspension still has the same cycle of movement.

Easy fix is big body lift, or going to 32's if you're dead set on not touching the pinch welds. Here's how I clearanced my pinchwelds for my skinny 33's. I run wheel spacers though so they're probably equivalent to your 285's in regards to the amount of rubbing.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...d-2001-toyota-4runner-4x4-38.html#post2701069

^^Link to my build with write up on pinch weld mod.

I followed this on mine - even saved the paint from cracking. Down the road it didn't matter because then I tubbed the firewall in efforts to squeeze in ever increasing tire sizes

 

[rkymtnman]

The rolling chassis we purchased has exactly this set up on it....only with stock wheels. It also has wheel spacers on it and there is no rub. I'd personally start with the alignment and then try a set of spacers if needed.

I stand corrected....I only have 32's. Sorry for the misinformation!

 

[Nate_GB]

Thanks, I'll get it realigned, hopefully it resolves the rubbing. Are there particular measurements I should ask for or just tell the shop to max out your caster while keeping your camber as close to 0 degrees as possible?

Thanks!

My preferred specs are 3 to 3.5 degrees of caster and -.2 to -.4 degrees of camber. Although I doubt you'll be able to get to those specs with the lift you have without aftermarket upper control arms. You'll probably be lucky to get 2.5 degrees of caster and +.5 camber.

 

[snow junky]

An Alignment isn’t going to stop it from rubbing. Maybe if the sidewall was rubbing the upper control arm. The only things that will stop tire from hitting the body is body lift or trimming.

Things like wheel offset /spacer are a factor too


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[theesotericone]

An Alignment isn’t going to stop it from rubbing

As long as you can push the caster far enough forward it will stop it from rubbing the pinch welds. Easier to do with aftermarket uppers but it's the same principle. It fixed it for me and a lot of other guys on the site.

 

[JayRolla]

An Alignment isn’t going to stop it from rubbing. Maybe if the sidewall was rubbing the upper control arm. The only things that will stop tire from hitting the body is body lift or trimming.

Things like wheel offset /spacer are a factor too


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100% an alignment can fix his issue. Additional caster at the lca will push the tire away from the firewall. I have zero rub full cycle and tires at full turn with no pinch weld modding needed. I cleared on stock arms and with my spcs. I cleared with and without 1.5" body lift. I cleared with and without my 1.25" wheel spacers.

I cleared 285s to 305s.

 

[nowashburn]

I went ahead and ordered a 4Crawler Offroad 1in body lift and am also (before putting the body lift on) am going to try the alignment recommendations as well. I should have gotten an alignment after putting the lift / tires on anyway. I figured the cost of both the alignment and body lift really isn't much compared to buying all new 32's, plus I'll get an extra inch out of it, why not.

It'll look nice and if it saves me from whacking at my runner with a hammer (still just doesn't sit right with me) than its a cheap addition to make things "right".

Thanks for all the help! I'll post with updates.

 

[snow junky]

I went ahead and ordered a 4Crawler Offroad 1in body lift and am also (before putting the body lift on) am going to try the alignment recommendations as well. I should have gotten an alignment after putting the lift / tires on anyway. I figured the cost of both the alignment and body lift really isn't much compared to buying all new 32's, plus I'll get an extra inch out of it, why not.



It'll look nice and if it saves me from whacking at my runner with a hammer (still just doesn't sit right with me) than its a cheap addition to make things "right".



Thanks for all the help! I'll post with updates.

You need the alignment anyway. It’s Not going to change that much. Your tires still going to go up just as high. There are hundreds of threads out there on this.

If you leave the parking lot it still might rub

I had 33s with 2in bl and it would rub when turned under full compression. Little bit of trimming did the trick.



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[nowashburn]

UPDATE! I just got back from the alignment, told them exactly, "max out the castor, get the camber as close to 0 as possible". I ended up at about +3 castor and 0 camber. ZERO rubbing now. I had a friend turn the wheel as I observed the tires, they are now a very decent distance from the lower pinch weld where it was rubbing before. I can't imagine them rubbing now at all even when wheeling.

I'm still going to put the body lift on, even though I fully understand it won't help with rubbing overall as the vertical flex would still allow it in theory to still hit. But with the alignment specs and BL I'll be both up and away from where I was rubbing before by a great deal. No need to beat my 4Runner with a hammer!

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Hopefully this will help others as well.

 

[averyislost]

I had the same issue with my 33's and 3 inch lift, had a ton of scrubbing against the pinch weld and after maxing out caster it completely eliminated it. :thumb3:
Although, if you have the Limited trim doing this will end up scrubbing against the front fender plastics, I had to do some minor clearancing to stop it

 

[nowashburn]

I had the same issue with my 33's and 3 inch lift, had a ton of scrubbing against the pinch weld and after maxing out caster it completely eliminated it. :thumb3:
Although, if you have the Limited trim doing this will end up scrubbing against the front fender plastics, I had to do some minor clearancing to stop it

Good to know, I can definitely see that. I personally HATE the fat lip bumper and am in the middle of converting to the 98 bumper, so have the lower valence off. Thats fine with me, I'd rather trim / shape the valence for a nice look if I have to rather than start messing with the pinch weld.

 

[snow junky]

Guess I was wrong. I think I took a hammer to mine before getting an alignment. Still rubbed tho. 33x12.5x15.


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[nowashburn]

Guess I was wrong. I think I took a hammer to mine before getting an alignment. Still rubbed tho. 33x12.5x15.


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Naw, not to sound cliché but it's not about being "right" or "wrong". I had asked for some advise to fix my problem, your input would have worked for sure. It's preference I guess. If anything, thank you for your input!

Also, as someone stated earlier, not all tires and lifts are the same. I have 285/75r16 on 8in wide rims 3" rough country.