Russell Speed Bleeder vs Earls Solo Bleed?

[Brian.]

Can you get the ABS to actuate? Many of us have issues with that module holding onto air... and with the crud that came out of your much neglected brake lines, there could very well be corrosion in the ABS pump that's limiting your success.

Mine went from "meh, feels maybe like it's bled, maybe not" to Knowing it felt bled once I triggered the ABS a half dozen times and re-bled the system. Granted, this is without the TBU (can't find a good reason for it), but it's likely still a portion of the problem.

FWIW, over 30 years and several hundred brake bleeds I've come to rely on a vacuum system. I put my Pela oil extractor into this service, always feeding the line straight up and taped to the top of the tire (or something in the vicinity, I do motorcycles mainly so wheel removal doesn't assist). Couple pumps, open the bleeder and then just watch the master cylinder. Used the same process on my 4runner.

Amazon.com: EWK 6L Vacuum Oil Extractor Pump Fluid Extractor Oil Change Pump for Automotive and Marine: Automotive

That looks exactly like what I bought about 20 years ago. I use it for ALL kinds of fluid extractions, brake bleeding is just the most common.

You could bite the bullet and find a shop with a Motive pressure bleed system for this initial time, pay them to deal with it.

 

[phattyduck]

So I went back and re-read a bunch of posts, hiked up my skirt, put it in gear and drove around the block. Turns out it wasn’t actually hitting the floor, but it felt like it. Very long pedal travel and there’s never any bite. Pumping the brakes helped stiffen up the pedal but that quickly disappeared. No way I could stop if a kid ran into the street. I never let the MC get much below the min mark. I believe rears were adjusted properly. I use the e-brake daily. Hope I’m not going to regret the TBU but based on what I’ve read it seems I just haven’t learned anything at all about proper bleeding. Yet. Tomorrow’s another day.

You likely have a few things going on:

- There needs to be some sort of thread sealant on speed bleeders for the the ball/spring system to actuate (at least on the internal ball/spring type). You can fake this with grease around the caliper/bleeder interface (helps with regular style bleeding to get all the fluid in the hose too).
- If you ever let the master get at all low, you likely need to 'reset' the master cylinder (96-00 years). The reservoir has two chambers and it is easy for the 'front' section to get low if you aren't watching it *very* carefully. If it runs dry, you have to follow the factory procedure for a master cylinder bench bleed to get the right pedal feel, also note doing rear first:

- You likely have air in the ABS system too. Once the above steps are done, you should be able to get the ABS system to actuate on a loose surface. Do that, then repeat the bleeding procedure above (while keeping the master absolutely full!). Might need to do 2x or 3x to get it 100%.

-Charlie

 

[fatherohenry]

I don't know if was the sealant or bleeding with the engine running but another 32oz of brake fluid later and I can stop on a dime!! Very little travel and excellent stopping power. As long as I have an extra gallon of fluid and some newfound confidence, I'm thinking about actuating the ABS and bleeding again to see if it can get even better.

I guess now I need to bed them. I'm not sure if that's necessary but it seems like a good idea. For what it's worth, I used Cardone Ultra caliipers, OEM rotors and pads, and Stop Tech lines.

Fluid still looks murky but it's better than what was in there before I started.

I'll do the rear stainless braided when I talk myself into doing the rears. But at least now I know how to successfully bleed and with those speed bleeders I can do it alone.

Oooh, I just remembered I can send the old calipers back to Rock Auto for some money back!


Huge thank you to everyone who offered advice and suggestions. This community is priceless!