Rust on new purchase

J

Jdevtac

Member
Super excited to be back in a 4Runner. Used to have an 02 2wd back in high school that I sold not too long ago.

Just purchased an 04 and one spot in particular evaded my rust check until after things were all said and done. The passenger side trailing arm or whatever you want to call it, which I now realize being adjacent to the muffler is apparently a frequent spot of rust formation and perforation. I’ve got 2 holes roughly the size of a quarter to half dollar (see pic)

I’ve been cleaning/painting the frame rust on the frame welds as well as doing Eastwood internal frame coating so ignore all the green drips.

Frankly it concerns me, however the surrounding metal has maintained its integrity based on some swift blows with a hammer to check. Seems like it’s isolated rot at these 2 holes. Should I be looking to get this fixed ASAP?

full
 
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Jdevtac said:
Super excited to be back in a 4Runner. Used to have an 02 2wd back in high school that I sold not too long ago.

Just purchased an 04 and one spot in particular evaded my rust check until after things were all said and done. The passenger side trailing arm or whatever you want to call it, which I now realize being adjacent to the muffler is apparently a frequent spot of rust formation and perforation. I’ve got 2 holes roughly the size of a quarter to half dollar (see pic)

I’ve been cleaning/painting the frame rust on the frame welds as well as doing Eastwood internal frame coating so ignore all the green drips.

Frankly it concerns me, however the surrounding metal has maintained its integrity based on some swift blows with a hammer to check. Seems like it’s isolated rot at these 2 holes. Should I be looking to get this fixed ASAP?

full
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If it were me I would have some steel plate welded over the areas for structual integrity and also for peace of mind .
 
Jdevtac said:
I think that will be my end decision. I just need to find a reputable body shop near me.
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You don't have to have a body shop patch the frame any certified welder/shop can do the job, even of you have a friend with a welder he could do it, just make sure you cut/grind away any rust and clean the area of the weld to bare metal, then after do the same rust prevention as you have on the rest of the frame.
 
How do you get the Eastwood stuff INSIDE the frame? I would like to do my frame as well. Just purchased an 03 which is mint except for a couple frame spots like yours. Thanks!
 
unfrozen_caveman said:
How do you get the Eastwood stuff INSIDE the frame? I would like to do my frame as well. Just purchased an 03 which is mint except for a couple frame spots like yours. Thanks!
Click to expand...

It comes with a long nozzle that you put in the drain holes for the frame. Tape off all the other holes and spray. Just make sure no dirt or loose rust is in the frame before you start. Clean it out well
 
unfrozen_caveman said:
How do you get the Eastwood stuff INSIDE the frame? I would like to do my frame as well. Just purchased an 03 which is mint except for a couple frame spots like yours. Thanks!
Click to expand...


The internal frame coating comes with a flexible 24” hose/cap so you pop the regular style spray cap off and put the new one on and away you go. The only issue is it comes coiled so it doesn’t be like to straighten out. I taped it to a coat hanger so it would stay straight and just sequentially put it in different frame holes for complete coverage.

Tape up as many holes as possible and remove tape as you go down the frame and spray. And I went with their green color so I could see I was getting good coverage.
 
Jdevtac said:
Has anyone ever used something like this to repair a section of frame?

https://www.autorust.com/product/mid-frame-section-w-rear-lower-trailing-arm-mount-art-202-r/

I was probing a little more around those holes and I was able to pop a screwdriver up through the underside of the frame that resides within the confines of the LCA mount. I’m thinking about just having someone detach the LCA, cut all the slag then weld in the above new section of frame.
Click to expand...

I am considering using that as I just found bad rust on mine in the same spot , but on the drivers side. Be glad it is on the passenger side because you won't have to remove the gas tank. I would definately buy that piece and have it welded in. I am waiting for the shop to send me a quote, but with the hours it will take for that and replacing the front cross member that is rusted out it may not be worth it for me. Kind of depressed about it at the moment.
 
Gatafly said:
I am considering using that as I just found bad rust on mine in the same spot , but on the drivers side. Be glad it is on the passenger side because you won't have to remove the gas tank. I would definately buy that piece and have it welded in. I am waiting for the shop to send me a quote, but with the hours it will take for that and replacing the front cross member that is rusted out it may not be worth it for me. Kind of depressed about it at the moment.
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Let me know how much they quote you for the LCA frame section, at least I’ll have a rough estimate.
 
Jdevtac said:
Let me know how much they quote you for the LCA frame section, at least I’ll have a rough estimate.
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Its the rear traction control arm bracket area like in your pic. They quoted me $575 just for gas tank removal and reinstall with new straps and brackets for it. That is just so they can get to it to do the welding on that side. Still waiting for the rest of the quote though.
 
hinow41 said:
It comes with a long nozzle that you put in the drain holes for the frame. Tape off all the other holes and spray. Just make sure no dirt or loose rust is in the frame before you start. Clean it out well
Click to expand...

What’s the best way to get the inside clean? I already sandblasted, primed and painted the outside of the frame, but can tell there is a lot of scale, sand , dirt, etc. inside the rails. I plan to do the Eastwood coating next so obviously I’d like to clean out the inside before spraying that stuff in.
 
AuSeeker said:
What kind of shop did the work and how much did it run you?
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I found a guy about an hour away who was listed on Autorust’s website listing of installers page. He mainly worked on jeeps and had installed a lot of SafetCaps. Charged me $400 for the whole shibang (minus the part itself which I bought ahead of time so add $200). Was the best quote I could find. Another shop quoted me $750 (not included the $200 part either).

But this guy I brought it to did a fantastic job. Topcoated the inside with rust preventative wax type coating also.
 
Jdevtac said:
I found a guy about an hour away who was listed on Autorust’s website listing of installers page. He mainly worked on jeeps and had installed a lot of SafetCaps. Charged me $400 for the whole shibang (minus the part itself which I bought ahead of time so add $200). Was the best quote I could find. Another shop quoted me $750 (not included the $200 part either).

But this guy I brought it to did a fantastic job. Topcoated the inside with rust preventative wax type coating also.
Click to expand...

That's not bad! I'm temped to have that kind of work done (those Safe-T-Caps look awesome), but with the amount of rust I have I think I'm better off saving up and doing a full frame swap. Yippee. Glad you got yours sorted out!
 
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