Rust preventative testing

[m0ist]

I'm sure there is some truth to that. Just being a barrier of a mix of wd40/oil and dirt would help to keep moisture out.

I've heard a lot of "old timers" saying they used to put used oil inside there frames and inside their door panels. I doubt any dust/dirt really builds up inside a door though.

To be honest, I actually thought the oil would have prevented rust pretty well but it didn't even keep the bare metal rust free for 24 hours?

Maybe I'll stick two more samples under my truck (magnets?) and coat one with WD40 and one with oil to test their effectiveness in real world driving situations.

I would think dirty used oil would be slightly more sticky too.

 

[thegipper]

Day 10

No changes

This will be the last picture I post until there is a change. I'll continue to spray the samples everyday.

I also added more water to the spray bottle but no more salt. Based on the amount of salt build up, I may have put a bit too much salt in the first time.

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[Reinout]

FLUID FILM is manufactured using an intricate heating and blending process, which combines unrefined wool wax with selective polar agents and corrosion inhibitors, creating a unique, lanolin-based formulation that stops existing rust on contact.

Fluid Film is classified as non-toxic and non-hazardous and contains less than one percent VOC content, helping to eliminate the use of ozone-depleting chemicals in the atmosphere. FLUID FILM contains no solvents, phenols, heavy metals, arsenic, pcb’s, pc’s, tcdd’s or other dioxin related substances. It is manufactured using an all natural lanolin base.

I'm great with products like that, but not all the products tested are that way.

 

[JZiggy]

I'm a little concerned about this. As some of us are trail users, the last thing we want is people putting chemicals on the vehicles that might get onto the very nature that we're enjoying. A water crossing and you leave behind an oil slick.

Sorry, not cool.

Hence the need to qualify bacon grease as a rust preventer.

 

[ADK Explorer]

Hence the need to qualify bacon grease as a rust preventer.

I'm 55 and I can attest that the insides of my arteries are rust free.

 

[Moonbandit]

Crazy about the cooking spray.

What kind of cooking spray is it?

Soy or corn oil based?

Thanks

 

[thegipper]

I think it is Canola based? I'll have to check.

It's been awhile since I've updated, unfortunately I forgot to take picture of the samples before I sprayed them but there has been a change.

The LPS 2 has some minor rust starting, definitely minor.

Also, the LPS 3 and the Fluid Film both have some tiny rust little spots/speckles starting, super duper minor though.

I have been spraying the samples every day. I'll post pictures tomorrow.

 

[thegipper]

As promised, here are the samples as of today.

All samples now have some degree of rust.

LPS 2 sample has minor rust on it now
LPS 3 and Fluid film sample have very minor rust.

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[2016 4Runner SR5]

Any new updates on this?

 

[thegipper]

I ended up having to replace the engine on my 97 so this project got pushed aside. I took the samples and put them outside near my old POS boat to sit out in the rain since I wouldn't have time to keep spraying them every day.

I'll post a picture when I get a chance and post it up here.

 

[ADK Explorer]

My sliders held up allot better this winter with the Fluid Film on them. Very little rust compared to last winter.

 

[thegipper]

The samples have been left outside now for 41 days.

Here are the results:

I'd say LP3 is holding up the best so far. The most surprising, cooking spray by a land slide.

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[2016 4Runner SR5]

Time to get a gallon of cooking oil, dump it into a week sprayer, and fill the frame rails lol. Anyone smell french fries?

 

[Scramble]

Hey [MENTION=138943]thegipper[/MENTION],
I did a little test myself over the winter. My Sonoran Steel bump stops were rusting away only after 3 NY salty winters. I think Steve only sprays one or 2 coats of Rustoleum over bare steel, same with his panhard bar. Last Summer I sanded them down using an 80 grit disk on my angle grinder because the pits were deep. I rattle canned 2 coats of Eastwood rust encapsulator & then 2 coats of VHT roll bar & chassis paint. I left them out on a bench in my yard all winter & they are starting to rust without even being driven in the salty streets. I'm pissed because I did a good job. Maybe because snow was sitting on them for weeks & months at a time which is not a real life condition? We had 4 big snow storms. Should I have used a rust converter before the rust encapsulator? I'm redoing my Shrockworks front bumper & I want it to last. I'm not using cheap products here. I also have BAMF sliders in bare steel & I'm thinking about spending the money on an Epoxy primer. I'm kinda unsure what to do at this point.

Time to get a gallon of cooking oil, dump it into a week sprayer, and fill the frame rails lol. Anyone smell french fries?

Canola Oil is the cheapest, get a gallon & put in one of those hand pump yard sprayers. Then the tree huggers can't complain that you're using motor oil.

 

[thegipper]

It's hard to say. Sometimes no matter what you do, the rust seems to come back.

I actually don't have a lot of knowledge with rust converters and such so I can't really give you any sound advise. On face value, it seems like you did all of the prep work but it still started to rust way too soon.

 

[MN4runnerman]

Hey [MENTION=138943]thegipper[/MENTION],
I did a little test myself over the winter. My Sonoran Steel bump stops were rusting away only after 3 NY salty winters. I think Steve only sprays one or 2 coats of Rustoleum over bare steel, same with his panhard bar. Last Summer I sanded them down using an 80 grit disk on my angle grinder because the pits were deep. I rattle canned 2 coats of Eastwood rust encapsulator & then 2 coats of VHT roll bar & chassis paint. I left them out on a bench in my yard all winter & they are starting to rust without even being driven in the salty streets. I'm pissed because I did a good job. Maybe because snow was sitting on them for weeks & months at a time which is not a real life condition? We had 4 big snow storms. Should I have used a rust converter before the rust encapsulator? I'm redoing my Shrockworks front bumper & I want it to last. I'm not using cheap products here. I also have BAMF sliders in bare steel & I'm thinking about spending the money on an Epoxy primer. I'm kinda unsure what to do at this point.

Both of those products are epoxy fortified so I don’t think an epoxy primer would’ve made much difference. And whether to use a rust converter first or just use an encapsulater is kind of tough. They both do the same job when it comes down to it. If the product turns the rust black and into a sealed ready to paint primer over it surface then it’s done it’s job. Rust just sucks, I end up having to redo my trailer every 2 years and I just use chassis saver and then a satin black chip guard clear coat for uv protection. One thing I’ve noticed is that when I paint bare metal with a self etching primer, then sandable, then herculiner, and then satin black chip guard it will not rust. I did my Jeeps bumpers just like that almost 10 years ago and there is no rust on those.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Last year I accumulated a decent amount of surface rust on my frame and rear axle over the winter. I spray painted over it and applied fluid film this year. Not a spec of rust since.

I should be okay if I do a 10 minute application of fluid film every year. Keep that underside looking spotless!

 

[dogtail]

The samples have been left outside now for 41 days.

Here are the results:

I'd say LP3 is holding up the best so far. The most surprising, cooking spray by a land slide.

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Nice insight. Here's actually a scientific study on Canola Oil rust prevention running inline with your results.
https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/7f5a/4f114da5cef1ff772fa514e176009aae2bab.pdf

 

[sbryan]

Just another data point on actual use. I Fluid Film my vehicles every spring and fall. Here in VT the highway department uses a brine mixture as well as tons of salt to keep the roads open in winter. The brine is especially vicious on vehicles because it seems to be more caustic than just road salt - lots of complaints from auto shops about how much worse rust is now that they are using brine.

Anyway, my 2005 4Runner was rust free after 8 years and 100,000 miles in this stuff. I traded it for a 2013 F350 to haul my camper and the F350 is rust free after 5 years in the salt. And our two new 4Runners will enjoy the same treatment every year for as long as we own them.

I use the application system sold by the Fluid Film dealer for New England, sprayer, bottles and hose to get to enclosed spaces. I do a rinse on the underside of the vehicles with a hose but otherwise just apply new FF over old. Areas with a lot of exposure to road debris clearly have no FF left after 6 months (wheel wells, eg). The rest of the underbody has various levels of FF left depending on exposure to the elements and road debris.

I chose FF because it was environmentally benign. I do the spray job on the grass in my back yard and I didn't want oil dripping onto the grass where the grandkids play.

I think the secret to success is the annual process of reapplying areas that tend to wash away. FF does wear off so reapplication seems desirable. I have been pleased with the results over the last 13 years and will continue to use FF as a cheap and reliable solution to rust prevention.

 

[kolelt]

I think the major step into stopping rust is obviously completely sanding it. But, proper primer is the key. And to be honest. Primer out of spray can is not the same as the ones auto bodies use in the guns. Properly degreasing the surface is key to.