Rust Treatment on already rusty frame?

Adeadwallnut

New member
Hello Everybody,

I have a few weeks off in coming months and was hoping on doing some preventative maintenance on my truck (03 LTD V8). Currently, the frame has a decent amount of rust and I am hoping to treat it before it becomes a problem. I have found a few threads on this but most of them are either discussing new frames or frames with really significant rust. My plan for now is as follows:

1. Pressure wash the frame including the frame inside and out.
2. Wire brush lose scale and wipe down with a degreaser.
3. Paint exterior with a rust converter (thinking coroseal) and get some eastwood internal coating for interior of the frame.
4. Fluid Film

I have heard mixed reviews on rust inhibitors, some say they will just trap existing rust and others say they work well. Would I be better off with a wire brush and just fluid film? If anybody has and experience with this let me know!

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That’s not bad rusting at all. You’ll be fine no matter what you do.

There’s no definitive on rust inhibitors because it’s tough to do 10 year studies. The chemistry of converting rust with an acid makes sense. Definitively, it gives you a paintable surface

Good luck
 
That’s not bad rusting at all. You’ll be fine no matter what you do.

There’s no definitive on rust inhibitors because it’s tough to do 10 year studies. The chemistry of converting rust with an acid makes sense. Definitively, it gives you a paintable surface

Good luck

Yea just have the extra time off and figure it is good preventative maintenance. Thank for the reply.
 
It's good you're thinking about performing some rust maintenance on your frame....but, for a 2003 that has lived in the north, your frame is in great shape!
 
Do you have the time to pull the body?

Unfortunately, I don't think I have the tools or space needed to pull the body. Looking for something I can do with a jack and some pretty basic tools.

Was planning on getting all four corners supported on jack stands and working with that setup!
 
It's good you're thinking about performing some rust maintenance on your frame....but, for a 2003 that has lived in the north, your frame is in great shape!


Thanks! Just trying to keep it that way. I really like the truck and want to keep it in good shape for as long as possible.
 
Unfortunately, I don't think I have the tools or space needed to pull the body. Looking for something I can do with a jack and some pretty basic tools.

Was planning on getting all four corners supported on jack stands and working with that setup!

Could turn a underground pool into a big electrolysis tank, but a drill, some wire wheels and a rust converter, followed by encapsulator and a good top coat of paint. Inside the frame would be the hardest part. Do a small section at a time, to keep from getting overwhelmed and use a good set of goggles, keep that crap out of your eyes.Plenty of tubeyou vids to give you some ideas.
 
Old school juice to stop the spread while working on it.

1oz Dawn dish soap, 4oz PB blaster, 12oz of tranny... Gender neutral fluid in a spay bottle.
Transmission fluid has rust preventative, pb blaster will break it down and the soap will hold it in place.
 
My 08 is in worse shape. My frame overall isn’t bad but a lot of other components - the rear axle and the frame attachments at the front and rear / under the bumper areas are pretty crunchy. I think I can go through all this to make it look pretty but not sure if it’s worth all the time and effort if I can’t get the inside
 
My 08 is in worse shape. My frame overall isn’t bad but a lot of other components - the rear axle and the frame attachments at the front and rear / under the bumper areas are pretty crunchy. I think I can go through all this to make it look pretty but not sure if it’s worth all the time and effort if I can’t get the inside

I will be doing the job in a few weeks. I'll update the thread on how it goes
 
From what I see on my truck the holes end up coming from the inside out. My opinion is to get as much dirt and debris out of the inside of the frame and then oil it. I use warmed up bar & chain oil and spray it into the frame holes with an undercoating gun. Messy job but it seems to stick well. I do oil the outside of the frame and other body parts but so far it lasts pretty well on most of the surfaces but not all. I hope to only have to do a once a year quick spraying on the surfaces that get worn off quicker.
 
Did this job on an '05 in the fall. I would use compressed air if you can to remove rust - fast and effective. I only did a little wire brushing on particular spots. Suggest passing on the degreaser unless you have particular areas of oil build up - you are not painting so you don't have to worry about adhesion. I did rust convertor on a few bad spots (Purple Power Deruster) then applied Woolwax on the frame and the internal rails. Removed all the skid plates, spare tire and wheels prior to the job. Bagged the hubs with trash bags to prevent contamination of brake rotors.
 
Wire wheel everything and coat it with POR-15 at the end. I have yet to do this on the 3rd gen with a somewhat rusty frame.
 
Did this job on an '05 in the fall. I would use compressed air if you can to remove rust - fast and effective. I only did a little wire brushing on particular spots. Suggest passing on the degreaser unless you have particular areas of oil build up - you are not painting so you don't have to worry about adhesion. I did rust convertor on a few bad spots (Purple Power Deruster) then applied Woolwax on the frame and the internal rails. Removed all the skid plates, spare tire and wheels prior to the job. Bagged the hubs with trash bags to prevent contamination of brake rotors.

Thanks. Good point on bagging the brakes. Did you use compressed air for the internals aswell or just wash them out beforehand.
 
Thanks. Good point on bagging the brakes. Did you use compressed air for the internals aswell or just wash them out beforehand.

Used compressed air as much as possible - good if you have an opening for the debris to exit. You really don't need to overdo the prep with Woolwax or Fluid
Film. Different if you were using a paint type product.
 
Your frame looks as good as my ‘07 Limited V8 with 172k. Primarily some surface rust and rust at the welds but no structural rust. I had Wool Wax Black applied a couple weekends ago. A local rust proofing retailer did it for $180. I am vey pleased with the outcome. He uses both Wool Wax and Fluid film but prefers Wool Wax as it is a little thicker and he says only needs touched up every 2-3 years whereas Fluid Film should be done every year....and FF smells really bad vs. Wool Wax. He says not a lot of prep is needed with either product. Just knock off the loose rust by tapping with a hammer and then wire bush the smaller loose pieces. Took him a half hour to prep then an hour or so to undercoat and spray in the doors etc.
 

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Paint-like rust inhibitors can trap rust. They don't wick into small cracks like a thin oil and once they cure water and salt can get behind them. Some people have luck but I've seen enough failures to make me wary. What I did to mine in the link, fair amount of work but less than what you're describing here, and a lifetime coating other than touching up the bottom of my diffs every 3 years or so. Would still wire brush the loose scale - Ultimate oil undercoating guide (DIY Waxoyl)
 
Paint-like rust inhibitors can trap rust. They don't wick into small cracks like a thin oil and once they cure water and salt can get behind them. Some people have luck but I've seen enough failures to make me wary. What I did to mine in the link, fair amount of work but less than what you're describing here, and a lifetime coating other than touching up the bottom of my diffs every 3 years or so. Would still wire brush the loose scale - Ultimate oil undercoating guide (DIY Waxoyl)

Yea thats what I am thinking. I feel it may be best just to go with a full coating of fluid film and call it a day! Appreciate the link.
 

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