Unfortunately I may be having to put a new engine in mine soon. Is the engine a reman or rebuilt? Saw you said reman but others mentioned a rebuild so I was just wondering. Thinking about going with a reman myself. Also how many miles is on it and how did you get a three year warranty? On the site, I've only seen the two year. How much are you paying for the engine as well as the install, if you don't mind me asking.
Oh, as I understood it, reman engines were done to a higher quality. Rebuilding was taken apart and fixing what was broken as versus reman was taking it apart and doing a clean, inspection, and conditioned to OEM specifications.
[MENTION=109102]MattJakobs[/MENTION], The difference between a reman and a rebuild usually is who is doing it. Rebuilds usually happen in a small environment one at a time. Remans are usually done by a business that specializes and has invested in remanufacturing that engine. Both use similar tools but the rebuilds may have parts like the head and block that are sent to other places where as a reman usually they have all the tooling in their manufacturing plant and work in an assembly line fashion. Both are done to factory spec, but keep in mind that doesn't always mean they have OEM internals etc.
You will find rebuilds/remans in a couple different ways.
Short Block - Lower half of the engine (block)
Long Block - Block and Head
"Dressed" Long Block - Block, Head, WP, Oil Pan, VC
If I were in CA I would have used YotaShop for my engine source. But with that being a way more expensive option because freight to FL is about $400 a pop. Also Warranty work ( if needed) would end up costing me freight to and from along with their warranty didn't seem enough to cover all the R&R for the engine.
The engine I am putting in is from LKQ, I have heard good and bad about them but more good than the bad. They also have A LOT of engines they put out, also you are more apt to hear the bad than the good. Plus their warranty is pretty damn good as well. Here is their warranty doc.
So a small update. The engine is stripped and ready to be hoisted. Intake manifold is off and was a hot mess of carbon, so we are getting that cleaned up long with the valve cover. Transmission is one bolt away from being dropped.
Turns out a squealing issue i would have on downshift or accelerations from a stop confirmed a hunch I had. The harmonic balancer was shot. So that will need replaced.
Engine is doing great. I have about 700 miles on the engine and did my first oil change ( picture is what the oil looked like).
The new motor mounts have moved my exhaust just enough that on start ups the rear most bend is hitting the bottom of the body. This is proving to annoy me more with every start.
The engine is running so much smoother than the old one that had 233k on it. If it were not for the exhaust you would question if it were running.
The Marlin HD clutch is a dream!!!!! I don't think I could have made a better purchase for my clutch. It has such a lighter feel to it and is easier to feather. [MENTION=114711]Red October[/MENTION] BUY IT!!!
A really odd finding about the LKQ engine we received was that it was crated differently than any other my buddy has ever received. Normally they are in a pastic crate. This was in a wood crate with what looked like Japanese written on it (wishing we took a pic). This is leading us to believe the engine was remanned in Japan. Just kind of cool.
That is it for meow. I am sure I will update more later!
Thats awesome that your new motor is up and runnin good! :guitar2:
I actually bought a Marlin clutch a couple weeks ago when I decided that I was gonna rebuild my motor. So thats good news! Now Im even more excited than before, sweet.
So the new engine is at 2500 miles and we are in two oil changes. While doing the oil change a couple weeks ago I noticed a leak as I took off the skid plates to clean them up. Turned out it was my drivers side cv seal. I knocked it out last night so lets see if it stops!
This is the old seal. It had ripped along the inside of the seal. There is a small spring that rides the inside of the seal where where the tear happened. I assume it is there to keep pressure along the axle for the seal. It happened to freak me out when random circular spring fell out when I pulled the CV from the shaft.
Since the new motor went in it has sounded like I have an exhaust leak coming from somewhere near the headers. I should be ordering new gaskets this week to put in new manifold, egr, and doughnut gaskets in to hopefully fix the issue. They were all replaced about a year before the new engine and reused ( not sure why we didn't just put new ones in while they were out).
In other news my jack that in have had since I could drive finally has a wheel fall off. So I decided to buy myself a pretty nice floor jack. I will have to say this sucker made lifting the truck a breeze!
Since the new motor went in it has sounded like I have an exhaust leak coming from somewhere near the headers. I should be ordering new gaskets this week to put in new manifold, egr, and doughnut gaskets in to hopefully fix the issue. They were all replaced about a year before the new engine and reused ( not sure why we didn't just put new ones in while they were out).
In other news my jack that in have had since I could drive finally has a wheel fall off. So I decided to buy myself a pretty nice floor jack. I will have to say this sucker made lifting the truck a breeze!
New shop equipment always has a strangely satisfying feeling even though its money that didn't directly go into the runner. It's generally a bad idea to re-use seals when any work is done, you should avoid it as best as you can. Especially if you've got the whole thing apart man! makes life so much easier than working in tight spaces all the time!
Keep up the good stuff man, seeing your thread name always make's me check it out!
[MENTION=108410]RockenAlex[/MENTION] I am with ya on seals and gaskets. I honestly thought that guy who put my engine in was going to replace them. I should have asked or specified. You live, you learn. At least I have done the job once before so it shouldn't be too hard.
[MENTION=120356]Paperjam[/MENTION], nice looking ride buddy. It looks like you have some conversion work to get on to make it the 4x4 it should have always been! Keep it up!
[MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION] yeah that seal was a pain. It took a couple weeks for my garage not to smell like gear oil!
[MENTION=120356]Paperjam[/MENTION], nice looking ride buddy. It looks like you have some conversion work to get on to make it the 4x4 it should have always been! Keep it up!
Just a quick update. A guy on the 3rd Gen 4runner Mafia facebook page posted that he was at a yard that had a good number of 4runners and if anyone needed anything. I saw the post and thought to myself "I wish my area had yards that that happened in." Well, turns out my area does! The guy was about 10 minutes down the road from my work. I took an early lunch met him down there, borrowed some tools and pulled some parts. Below is my bounty. I almost purchased a rear hatch but it had a nice dent below the wiper that i figured i could do work to the one i have cheaper than fixing that one.
I am planning on taking off my passenger side mirror and give these guys a nice coat of flat black spray paint so they aren't as faded and match the other flat blacks on the rig. Since i will be taking off the rear bumper or part of it to replace the panel I picked up I am tempted to paint them as well. What do you think?
Also I ordered the gaskets from a local dealer the other day, they gave me some good pricing that ended up being a hair more expensive than ordering from Camelback Toyota with shipping. I am hoping to get all the new gaskets on Sunday morning which will hopefully result in no more exhaust leak! :dance:
So here is an update for those of you who actually read this thing.op2:
I took the 3 minutes needed to install the tail light i picked up at the yard.
Before:
After:
I have had an exhaust leak ever since I had the engine put in and it has been driving me crazy ever since. I decided it was time to do something about it. I went to the dealer and purchased all the gaskets: EGR, Manifold and Donuts. Got around to installing them later that weenked. After getting everything apart i think i had found the issue.
It looked like the doughnut closest to the firewall was my culprit. I thought to my self "Yay, I should have it fixed!". I finished putting everything back together and went for a test drive. The leak was still there!!! :Cry:
I dropped the down pipe a couple times to see if the doughnut just wasn't seating properly. It did not work. I finally got smart and used my bore scope to look around to see if it could find the leak. In the below video you can see the where the down pipe meets the manifold it is duck billed!!!
So it seemed to me the easiest option was to go with a new header that replaced the down pipe. :thumb3:
So I purchased an LCE Street Header and a new Denso 02 sensor ( I didn't want to fight to get the old one out).
While I had most everything out of the side of the engine. I took the advice of [MENTION=86041]Mc1337sauce[/MENTION] and cleaned while when replacing something. Nothing like some simple green a sprat bottle of hot water and a scrub brush!
op2:
