SaS Dana44 Crazy bad vibrations at 1+mph in 4wd
- Thread starter snow junky
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thardy
New member
Correct gearing is gearing, but depending on what axle you have you may not be able to match gearing. So yes a differant axle will change the gearing he is able to put in.
There are MANY people who use this combo. I would still have it if not for the fact that I already had the 44 to match my front and it was already in the shop to replace my t-case. My understanding is the general rule is 2%
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Andy in Pa
New member
Put it in 4wd and leave the hubs unlocked. If no vibes, then its the gearing.
snow junky
New member
absalom
New member
On an unrelated note, do you have a build thread for your York?
snow junky
New member
Andy in Pa
New member
Spools are tough on front ends, especially D44's. With a spool, any differences in mass or turning diameter in tires will result in axleshaft/gear loading at strange times. The nice part though, is when you don't need both tires pulling, you can leave one hub unlocked and have 3 wheel drive. In a front D44 axle with a spool, a good investment is strong locking hubs for this reason. Theres no reason a spool wouldn't work in a front axle, you just spend a lot of time locking and unlocking hubs.
thardy
New member
A spool would not cause his front end to vibrate like he is talking. I am 100% positive that it is the gearing. Drive shaft angle could cause some vibration, but not enough to notice at 1+ mph. I had the exact same issue with mine front end unlocked (E-locker) unlocked the hubs it was fine. Unlocked hubs in 4x4 it was fine. Locked hubs, 4x4, dry pavement (came of dirt road forgot to put in 2x4), not fine.
Kurtis
New member
I highly doubt the problem is the spool especially since it only happens then going straight. The gearing difference can cause issues but it would be in the form of binding in the drivetrain but honestly, it's probably not your problem but is more likely amplifying the symptom you are having. How long has this been going on? Since the swap or is it new? Maybe recently noticed? Links and coils or leaf springs? If it's link, then what kind of joint are you running on both sides of the links?
If this was my horse, I would pull the rear driveline and take it for a ride in 4WD to see how it sounds.
You may also want to check for slop in the front driveline at the output of the t-case and input of the diff.
Does it do it in both 4HI and 4Lo?
If it was my vehicle and I still had not found anything I would not worry about it and would avoid putting it in 4WD on pavement. Either it will work it's self out or it will break and expose the problem.
Edit: I checked you build thread. Running leafs.
If this was my horse, I would pull the rear driveline and take it for a ride in 4WD to see how it sounds.
You may also want to check for slop in the front driveline at the output of the t-case and input of the diff.
Does it do it in both 4HI and 4Lo?
If it was my vehicle and I still had not found anything I would not worry about it and would avoid putting it in 4WD on pavement. Either it will work it's self out or it will break and expose the problem.
Edit: I checked you build thread. Running leafs.
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TheArkMaster
New member
Welded diffs are where it's at. I've had zero issues, and I'm welded front and rear. As long as you have manual locking hubs, you're good. Personally, I would ditch the spool, do a manual hub conversion, and weld it.
I have a similar issue in my pickup. I would say it is due to the slop in the front driveline. I removed mine and issue was solved. Now I just need to fix it haha.
And gain what from that? Welding is a hack way to lock an axle and it sure isn't as strong as a spool.
thardy
New member
What makes you think welded gears isn't as strong as a spool? There is no way in hell I would ever buy a spool. Welded spiders is a lot cheaper and just as strong.
As far as manual hubs, there is no other way. Especial with a locked front end. Welded or spooled it makes it physically easier to steer. Any other type of locker, except a selectable, it makes it more predictable.
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IBallEngineer
New member
While not advocating for either, it is highly unlikely a welded diff would be as strong as a spool. One piece, vs the likely poor weld penetration on treated parts. I'm not saying it can't be welded correctly, I'm saying it's improbable that the quality of the welding, heat treating and annealing be performed, on a field weld be as sound as a one piece spool. I'm sure someone will tell me they are the best of the best and could weld a soda can to my lips. yada yada yada
That being said, we don't have an issue here because offroad there is tire slip, and we aren't driving 1000HP monsters. On pavement I'd worry more about axle shafts than either welded spiders or spools.
As you were...
:typing:
The question you should be asking is what makes you think a welded diff is as strong as a spool. I've seen several welded diffs with broken carriers that are broken in the HAZ. Haven't personally seen a broken spool yet.
Did anyone say there was a thing wrong with manual locking hubs? The OP has them already, since you seem to have missed that. He already has a spool too, so swapping in an open diff just to weld it doesn't make a lot of sense now, does it?
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thardy
New member
Maybe I should rephrase. No welded gears are probably not always as strong as a spool, BUT with a V6 running 35s you're not going to break a welded spider THAT IS BUILT CORRECTLY. What makes me think a welded diff is as strong as a spool is personal EXPERIENCE. I have seen a welded diff hold up to a 350 Chevy on 39" tires being worked harder than a lot of people on this board will ever work a diff. So IF BUILT RIGHT YES A WELDED DIFF CAN BE AS STRONG AS A SPOOL.
Never said anyone said anything was wrong with manual hubs. I was just responding to your reply, with an opinion.
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So you've seen one welded diff with a small block Chevy in front of it? Not to take anything away from that one example, but it's far from being a good sample size. It also means nothing when comparing strength to that of a spool. I managed to destroy a welded Chevy 14bolt with a little 258 six cylinder powering it. It's not a matter of welding technique either. It's the nature of the material that is being welded together.
Don't assume that everyone on this board only has mildly run 4Runners in their arsenal, BTW. I have a CJ on 40s with a built 401 in front of it and another one under construction because the first one literally is being torn to pieces from wheeling it hard. I know I'm not the only one with multiple toys here.
Don't assume that everyone on this board only has mildly run 4Runners in their arsenal, BTW. I have a CJ on 40s with a built 401 in front of it and another one under construction because the first one literally is being torn to pieces from wheeling it hard. I know I'm not the only one with multiple toys here.
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thardy
New member
Go head and reread my last post. Look for the phrase "if built right" and "harder than a lot of people". I know there are guys on here with bad ass rigs, that use them. I will go ahead and stand by my opinion and you can stand by yours. I will personally never buy a spool. I am confident enough in my skills and experience that I trust my welds. If you want to have your own opinion and buy a spool, go right ahead. Doesn't make either of us a bad person. I believe because of my experience that a welded diff is more than sufficient for anything I will ever do. And yes I wheel hard. Now let's go ahead and be friends, let by bygones be.
P.S. it's good to see another on here that likes to wheel CJs. As much as I love my 4R there is something special about an old built CJ
P.S. it's good to see another on here that likes to wheel CJs. As much as I love my 4R there is something special about an old built CJ
