SAS info/advice needed

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can you clarify "interior hole" .... ? Do you mean where your tranny and t case shifter come in through the floor? Of course you can run Toyota axles , the 85 solid axle is used a lot, it came with extra gussets , and they're around , just getting kinda pricey ...
 
I don't wanna cut up my interior to accommodate a different t-case.I wanna keep the interior the way it is.
 
can you clarify "interior hole" .... ? Do you mean where your tranny and t case shifter come in through the floor? Of course you can run Toyota axles , the 85 solid axle is used a lot, it came with extra gussets , and they're around , just getting kinda pricey ...

Isn't a 3rd gen a driver side drop? first and second gen's are passenger drop.
I know that's why a lot of solid axle Tacomas run D44's up front
 
It is drivers side drop.

If you want to stay Toyota you will have to do a cut and rotate on the balls and your Toy axle will be upside down, or you can buy a Diamond Axle. They are on the high side, but definitely a quality axle. I have 4 or 5 buddies that run them and are very happy w/ them. Dana 44's out of jeep wagoner's work great for this swap as well

I'm drivin on cave springs now,lol.spencer and Mexico is where I grew up

Nice! I need to get back out there soon. It's been more than 5 years since the last time I was their.
 
I want to keep my interior hole free and keep my t-case and run Toyota axles.Is this possible?

In short: no, it's not possible. Options will be very limited if you're keeping the stock transfer case and wanting to stay toyota. Your transfer case is driver side drop and all Toyota front axles are passenger drop. So your choices will be:

1)Fabricate a custom axle housing (extend the passenger side, shorten the driver side). This could be done with a mini/4runner axle, FJ60 or F(Z)j80.

2)Buy a custom aftermarket axle housing (diamond, ruffstuff, trail gear) that has the appropriate driver drop.

3)Give up on a toyota axle and run a Waggy D44 (IMO a weaker option than some of the toyota axles, but easier and cheaper to make it happen)

4) Best option, IMO: ditch your factory transfer case and bolt up an older gear-driven passenger drop transfer case, run any toyota axle of your choosing. This will also allow you to do cool stuff like dual cases and aftermarket 4.7 low range gears. IF you want SAS, you can suck it up and re-arrange the shifter holes if you need to.

I would personally do the 80-series axle as it has bigger brakes, a lot more beef, and it doesn't need large spacers to match the rear axle, but it will also require custom knuckles (google hellfire knuckles) or slee double steering arms to be converted to high-steer. FJ60 would be my second choice and is a 9.5" axle, so a lot stronger than the standard 8" but the brakes will need to be upgraded. 3rd choice in my mind is the mini/4runner axle because it is small (will need spacers to match rear width) has weak brakes and a smaller R&P.


Flip the axle--Never seen this done, and seems like this would do bad things for lubrication--also what do you do with a drain plug on top???
 
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And why exactly can't they be cut?Drain hole up top doesn't bother me.minor detail.cutting up interior does bother me.Ive been down that road and it's never the same after you cut it.
 
The axle can be cut and lenghtened/shortened, it has been done. Or I guess you could flip the axle and cut off the knuckle balls and flip them so they're facing the correct orientation. But either one of those options is a helluva lot more work and skill required than cutting/patching the transmission tunnel for a shifter. I guess that's the part that I'm not getting about your goals.

Also, I assume the goal of SAS is to improve your offroad cabability, not just to look cool. Running a gear-drive passenger drop t-case gives you the opportunity to get a really deep crawl ratio that would be unobtainable with the stock transfer case.

Another thing to keep in mind is that the gears inside your carrier are designed to sling gear oil in a particular way to keep all the parts lubricated. I don't know if running an axle upside down could be something that leads to poor lubrication, but definitely something worth researching before you try it.
 
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You can't just flip an axle upside down to move the pumpkin to the other side. It will want to drive the opposite direction as the rear axle if you do that.

An example: Lets say that a passenger drop axle moves the axleshafts in a forward direction with a counter-clockwise rotating front driveshaft. If you flip it the axleshafts will rotate in a rearward direction with a counter-clockwise rotating front driveshaft.

Passenger drop and drivers drop Toyotas have the same rotation direction of the front driveshaft.

To convert a passenger drive front axle to drivers drop the center section must be moved from one side to the other, keeping the top/bottom orientation the same.

If it were as simple as flipping an axle, it would be commonly done in many different makes/models of 4WD vehicles.
 
You can't just flip an axle upside down to move the pumpkin to the other side. It will want to drive the opposite direction as the rear axle if you do that.

An example: Lets say that a passenger drop axle moves the axleshafts in a forward direction with a counter-clockwise rotating front driveshaft. If you flip it the axleshafts will rotate in a rearward direction with a counter-clockwise rotating front driveshaft.

Passenger drop and drivers drop Toyotas have the same rotation direction of the front driveshaft.

To convert a passenger drive front axle to drivers drop the center section must be moved from one side to the other, keeping the top/bottom orientation the same.

If it were as simple as flipping an axle, it would be commonly done in many different makes/models of 4WD vehicles.

Put the 3rd in upside down and then flip the axle. Cut the balls off and reweld. It's not that difficult and it is do. People do it. Just not on this forum.
 
I want to keep my interior hole free and keep my t-case and run Toyota axles.Is this possible?

I think you're nuts to put the condition of your interior trim before the benefits of a RF1A transfer case, but the answer to your question is yes. Buy a Trailgear Tacoma-width Rock Assault front axle with a driver drop, $700 or so last I checked. It'll come with shafts, you'll need to source everything else from Trailgear or elsewhere (knuckles, steering, birfs, hubs, third member, etc). You can also get driver-drop Toyota 8" axles in custom widths from Diamond and Ruff Stuff - they're more expensive and you'd need to source your shafts.
 

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