SAS info/advice needed

Flipping a mini axle can be done. I've seen it done.
You have to cut and rotate the knuckle balls 180 degrees, and common sense will tell most that the 3rd member needs to flip as well.
 
So apparently I can run a t-case out of a 93-95 3.0 t100.will give me a passenger side drop and bolt right up to my trans.T-case controls will come through the existing t-case control hole.Im not worried about dual cases and all that.I just want something I can beat on in the trails every few months.Just want clean and functional.4.56's,35's and locked at both ends.
 
I'm just gonna 44 it.

The 44 can be a good axle, but not without some work.

Of course the style of wheelin' you do, your driving habits, gearing/locker all factor in. I'd recommend staying with the Toyota if possible! I don't see a major cost benefit unless someone gives you something already set up.
 
The 44 to use would be the 1980-1991 Wagoneer/Grand Wagoneer. Gotta pay attention to any from '83-85 to be sure that they are not the center vacuum disconnect type, which are fairly rare in comparison to non-vac disconnect.
 
A steering box, drag link and tie rod for starters.

There's lots of SAS info out there on the web if you don't have the basics figured out.
 
Thank you very much for that vague answer.Thank you for wasting our time.I appreciate it.

Well now, ask a vague question, you know what you get.

As the OP you take the lead here. You are asking about two different things at once, not sure what you are even going to do. You said you found a way to use a passenger side drop and keep the stock controls. Well then the Waggy front axle isn't going to work for you because it's driver's drop. As for the answer he gave, it wasn't vague at all. You asked and he answered. He can't give you part numbers and what store to buy them from without a shit load of more information. Dana axles came in all 4 US manufacturers vehicles. The ball joint dimensions for the tie rod ends vary tremendously. So do the widths. You can use the Jeep Wagoneer but not the Grand Wagoneer, you can also use a few Ford front D44 axles that actually work out a little better. Because they have a slightly different 3rd member position.

Most of the advice you've gotten on this thread has discouraged you from using the 44, yet you disregarded that with no explanation.

Brino1 I'm just gonna 44 it.

So I'm not sure who is wasting time here.

One last thing, and none of this is trying to shame you or make you look bad, but there are already literally HUNDREDS of articles and posts about SAS here and on other sites. No need to reinvent the wheel. If you have a specific question as to how the SAS relates to YOUR swap, and can provide the information needed then by all means ask it!

:cheers:
 
Thank you very much for that vague answer.Thank you for wasting our time.I appreciate it.

Everything you are asking is on the Web already. Your being lazy. This type of fabrication takes time and research. Seems you want others to do the research for you. How about you start reading instead of typing.
 
Well then the Waggy front axle isn't going to work for you because it's driver's drop. You can use the Jeep Wagoneer but not the Grand Wagoneer

Just some background info that Waggies had passenger drop (74-79) as well as driver drop (80-91).

The name Grand was just added in '84 and the vehicle is the same as previous years without "Grand" preceding Wagoneer. It's the Grand Cherokee that you don't want a front axle from for a Toy SAS.


OP, my apologies for not being able to read your mind with your incredibly vague question and not knowing what level of understanding you already have on the subject. Perhaps if you included some details in your questions you would receive details in your answers.
 
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I was pissy this morning.Forgive me.Here are my plans.FJ80 front axle.t-100 t-case to switch the drop.

Here are my not so vague questions.
Is the second gen 4Runner ifs steering box my best choice?if it is,what am I gonna need to modify?

There's like 500,000 build threads.Do you know of any off hand that can aid me on my quest for a sas?
 
I was pissy this morning.Forgive me.Here are my plans.FJ80 front axle.t-100 t-case to switch the drop.

Here are my not so vague questions.
Is the second gen 4Runner ifs steering box my best choice?if it is,what am I gonna need to modify?

There's like 500,000 build threads.Do you know of any off hand that can aid me on my quest for a sas?

Technically it's first and 2nd gen, IFS box 86-95. Now for the fun part, I'm not exactly sure you can use it with the FJ80 front axle. Most SAS swaps involve a Hi-Steer set up which I don't think you can use on the 80 Knuckles. The FJ80 uses some funky arms attached at the bottom of the spindles. I'm sure you can get something to attach, but I see bump steer in your future if you do. I had heard there is someone making or modifying the knuckles for high steer, but I can't recall who. I had mine custom made, and believe me I paid dearly. I'll see if I can't find who is doing that now.
 
Oh by the way, the biggest issue using an FJ80 front axle is the width. It's 3" wider than an FJ60/62, which is already wider than the tacoma/4runner width. I'm too lazy to hunt down the actual measurement, but it's big.
 
Would a mini truck axle better suit me?I can get a mini truck axle(minus 1 knuckle)for $125.or a complete mini truck axle with a set of ifs hubs for about $400.I actually have a set of high steer arms from a mini truck I was gonna build.
 
Would a mini truck axle better suit me?I can get a mini truck axle(minus 1 knuckle)for $125.or a complete mini truck axle with a set of ifs hubs for about $400.I actually have a set of high steer arms from a mini truck I was gonna build.

if you're switching out the case to a driver drop, yes. The mini is where it's at.
 
Mini Truck axle is OK, several people have used it, but it has crap for brakes (if your rig will see much road/highway duty or ANY towing). It is also a few inches shorter than your rear axle, so will require spacers to have the correct track width. The stock mini truck birfs are also not the strongest. You might be OK on 35's, but if I were running that axle, I would invest in some Longfields.

Technically it's first and 2nd gen, IFS box 86-95. Now for the fun part, I'm not exactly sure you can use it with the FJ80 front axle. Most SAS swaps involve a Hi-Steer set up which I don't think you can use on the 80 Knuckles. The FJ80 uses some funky arms attached at the bottom of the spindles. I'm sure you can get something to attach, but I see bump steer in your future if you do. I had heard there is someone making or modifying the knuckles for high steer, but I can't recall who. I had mine custom made, and believe me I paid dearly. I'll see if I can't find who is doing that now.

There are currently two solutions that I know of to this problem:

Hellfire Knuckles (they replace the entire factory knuckle with a cast unit that is set up for a steering arm bolted to the top

Slee High Steer arms, which bolt to the top of the factory 80-series knuckles and run a bit long bolt between that arm and the stock arm below in double-shear to make the arm strong enough to mount your steering hardware to (the slee upper arm only attaches by 3 bolts, so not enough beef to run the top arm by itself)
 
I was pissy this morning.Forgive me.Here are my plans.FJ80 front axle.t-100 t-case to switch the drop.

Here are my not so vague questions.
Is the second gen 4Runner ifs steering box my best choice?if it is,what am I gonna need to modify?

There's like 500,000 build threads.Do you know of any off hand that can aid me on my quest for a sas?

I'm using an IFS steering box (89 truck I think) on an 80 series front axle with all stock steering components and no bump steer.
 
Mini Truck axle is OK, several people have used it, but it has crap for brakes (if your rig will see much road/highway duty or ANY towing). It is also a few inches shorter than your rear axle, so will require spacers to have the correct track width. The stock mini truck birfs are also not the strongest. You might be OK on 35's, but if I were running that axle, I would invest in some Longfields.



There are currently two solutions that I know of to this problem:

Hellfire Knuckles (they replace the entire factory knuckle with a cast unit that is set up for a steering arm bolted to the top

Slee High Steer arms, which bolt to the top of the factory 80-series knuckles and run a bit long bolt between that arm and the stock arm below in double-shear to make the arm strong enough to mount your steering hardware to (the slee upper arm only attaches by 3 bolts, so not enough beef to run the top arm by itself)

I haven't looked at the Slee website in a longtime so I'm not sure what you mean. I had my factory knuckles machined to accept custom arms. And I only have 3 studs, but they are 1/2" for 2 and 10MM for the other if memory serves me. I'm still not recommending the 80 axle for this application.
 
Sorry, i probably didn't explain that very well. Tie rod goes between the factory arm and the Slee upper arm mounted to a long bolt in double sheer, then the drag link mounts above the upper arm. I assume they determined the upper arm needs to work in conjunction with the lower arm because all other toyota steering arms have 4 studs (or 6 in the case of the TG 6-shooters).

A picture is worth a thousand words.

histeer003.JPG


histeer001.jpg


Obviously, the tie rod would still interfere if running leafs. Hellfire Knuckles (or custom machining like yours) would be the only option for leaf springs.
 
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there is no bump steer as long as the panhard bar and drag link are the same length and parallel. obviously this would be for a linked setup.
 

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