SAS questions on my 3rd gen
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KidVermicious
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Are you automatic or 5 speed? You need a case from any truck with the equivalent transmission and early IFS.
KidVermicious
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Are you sure? Second gen 4Runners with the 3.0 used the same R150 and they had passenger drop cases. So did T100s, and late model T100s even had the 3.4. Identical drivetrains except for the tcase. I've never done it obviously, but I don't see any reason he couldn't get one to swap over.
Not that adapting to a gear drive tcase is a bad thing, that opens up 4.7 gears or a doubler nicely. But I don't think he has to?
thardy
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There are 3 Toyota manual transmissions that will bolt-up to and work with the 3.4L 5VZ-FE.
The first is the R150 that is found in models with the 3.0L 3VZ-E. This transmission will bolt to the 3.4L using its own bell-housing. This 5-speed manual transmission is nearly identical to the unit placed behind a 5VZ-FE from the factory (also called the R150). The only note-able external difference between the older and newer R150 is the length of the input shaft, the depth of the bell housing, and the bolt pattern on the rear (4×4 models). The later (3.4L) version uses a longer input shaft and deeper bell housing. The newer version also uses a driver side output transfer case (except T100 models) with a different bolt pattern. This often means it is easier and more economical to use the older R150 from a 3.0L application.
Pulled from offroadsolutions.com the artical is talking about trannys but mentioned the difference was the bolt pattern on the t-case.
3.4L (5VZ-FE) Conversion » Tech Info » Off Road Solutions
KidVermicious
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Amazing that the bolt pattern changes on the R150 between motors. The article does seem to imply that the T100 transfer case uses the newer R150 bolt pattern though, so maybe that's still an option?
Talking about the A340, it says "There are external differences between the new and old A340 that prevent the use of an older transfer case", but it also mentions that the early A340 will bolt up behind a 3.4 with some wiring mods to make it work right. Although again, it says that the A340 from a T100 with the 3.4 will work.
So if the OP doesn't want to convert to a gear drive box, there are options. Doesn't look like many are as simple as swapping in a new tcase, more's the pity.
Talking about the A340, it says "There are external differences between the new and old A340 that prevent the use of an older transfer case", but it also mentions that the early A340 will bolt up behind a 3.4 with some wiring mods to make it work right. Although again, it says that the A340 from a T100 with the 3.4 will work.
So if the OP doesn't want to convert to a gear drive box, there are options. Doesn't look like many are as simple as swapping in a new tcase, more's the pity.
Thanks everyone, this is the info I need.
Yes its an automatic 3.4L v6, I want to go to a gear driven case and would ideally like to run dual cases. Im geared down to 5.38s so that should be a great combo with dual cases. Not sure ill have the money for duals at first tho.
What would be my best option for a gear driven T case to start out with and the option to run dual in the future? Ill probably re read what you wrote after posting this and find the answer myself. But thanks for all the help guys.
Pics soon to come. working on cleaning up these axles.
KidVermicious
New member
There's no option for a gear driven case - to use that adapter that Ty linked you need a top shift gear drive case with a 23 spline input. Check the Marlin site for a list that shows which trucks had top shift gear drive cases, or if you can't find one of those you can buy a kit to adapt a forward shift case. When you're ready to put in a doubler, you'll need another gear drive case and another adapter to go between the cases.
slowpoke99
New member
Crossmember? Or do you mean the front spring hanger? I used trail gears kit on my '99 and the instructions said I would need to swap out my radiator to clear it but I actually had no issues and ended up keeping my stock radiator in place. I can take pics when I get home if you like. But I do have the part number for the recommended radiator in my shop at home if you feel you don't have a choice but to replace it.
I mean the fan shroud, was thinking something else when I said crossmember. I know some people can clear with slight trimming. Anyway pics would be awesome and a part number would be cool. I should probably replace it and add a cooler same time.
slowpoke99
New member
No problem. I'll snap a couple when I get home and post them up along with the part number for the radiator for ya.
downpour11
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2RZ Radiator, they're shorter. There's a thread on Pirate Matt made a while back addressing this issue.
having fun
New member
Hey T- hoe, to save you lots of headaches from questions and thinking,
Just give me your ride, all your parts you have, and your checkbook.
Key thing at that point is to keep making deposits.
Me and my brother will hook this up BAD A$$. And when where done, don't expect to have it back for awhile, got to take it out on a few runs to make sure it's done right.
Serious though, enjoy learning how a project like this is done, expect to see you in action when your done.
Just give me your ride, all your parts you have, and your checkbook.
Key thing at that point is to keep making deposits.
Me and my brother will hook this up BAD A$$. And when where done, don't expect to have it back for awhile, got to take it out on a few runs to make sure it's done right.
Serious though, enjoy learning how a project like this is done, expect to see you in action when your done.
slowpoke99
New member
Here's my radiator in the stock location. I actually didn't have to do any modifications to the fan shroud either. There were two part numbers for recommended radiators to use that are 1inch shorter. One of which I believe is the 2rz that downpour mentioned above IIRC. Napa #APD2740 and Performance Radiator #1774. I personally didn't think that the extra inch hanging down was gonna be an issue so I left it alone for now. Napa wanted $144 and PR wanted $106 for theirs at the time. Hope this helps.
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slowpoke99
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downpour11
New member
I forgot he is doing leafs lol, you guys have that crossmember. I was reading "i don't think the extra inch will be an issue" and I was like... well I popped mine on a rock, but I don't have that crossmember there.
But yeah, I paid like $120-130 for mine from vatozone, because that was the only place open New Years Day. No issues though and no overheating.
slowpoke99
New member
You know I'm still thinking about adding some kind of armor to protect my radiator from that. Some kind of plate built off of the hanger running underneath it. I've hit my front hanger a bunch of times on my '88 so I know it wouldn't hurt.
Hmmmm...that 1in. shorter radiator is starting sound like a good idea. Way to go Rob! Now I'm gonna end up spending money again
downpour11
New member
You know I'm still thinking about adding some kind of armor to protect my radiator from that. Some kind of plate built off of the hanger running underneath it. I've hit my front hanger a bunch of times on my '88 so I know it wouldn't hurt.
Hmmmm...that 1in. shorter radiator is starting sound like a good idea. Way to go Rob! Now I'm gonna end up spending money again
hahaha hey that's the rule with this stuff, there's always something...
I know thardy built a radiator guard. I know you can fab well, just bend some sheet and bolt it on to protect the radiator.
