SAS questions

hntz4x4

New member
I know probably going to get flamed for asking, but have done a ton of reading and can't get a clear answer.

We are doing a SAS on my son's 86 4runner. Plan is to use RUF with boomerang shackles, does the steering box need to be moved forward since these springs move the axle forward?

Where to place front hanger?

Where to cut holes for shackle mounts within the body mount?

Thanks,
Ryan
 
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hi,not sure I understand your question?
I used a front weld on spring hanger from trail gear and that required me to move my steering box forward so that i didn't have clearance issues with the cross over steering that you have to use when doing sas.

Are you using boomerang shackles up front, never heard of that?
 
Yes, you will need to move the steering box forward.
Most of the major Toy offroad shops that sell SAS kits have a template to help you locate the shackle mount. It duplicates the location on 84-85s with stock SFA.
Be advised that the stock rear packs may not be adequate and need an additional leaf or 2.
I built custom packs from my rears and leafs from 2WD rear packs, a front hanger that moves the axle 2" forward in addition to the 1" forward RUF provides.
Also using Budbuilts banana shackles (which I think you mean by boomerang shackles).
 
BTW, the holes for the rear shackle mount are in the frame, not a "body mount", as in the last sentence in your post.
 
Is the steering box relocation due to the length of the RUF springs?

I left mine where it was and all seems well. I did Trail Gear HD up front though.
 
BTW, the holes for the rear shackle mount are in the frame, not a "body mount", as in the last sentence in your post.

Ya I know the shackle holes are through the frame, but people position them differently using that template within that body mount area.
 
Is the steering box relocation due to the length of the RUF springs?

I left mine where it was and all seems well. I did Trail Gear HD up front though.

Yes, but I think now he is going to leave the steering box where it is and go with different springs. Possibly ones from Davez Off Road.
 
I would advise moving the frame holes forward a bit based on where your front hanger is going to be. I cut mine before I realized my front hanger was all wrong. Had to move the front hanger back quite a bit and my shackle angle is crap, although with some use it has gotten better.
 
I would advise moving the frame holes forward a bit based on where your front hanger is going to be. I cut mine before I realized my front hanger was all wrong. Had to move the front hanger back quite a bit and my shackle angle is crap, although with some use it has gotten better.

After talking to a couple guys that have done this, they suggested to cut the shackle holes in the center and then adjust the front hanger (which is only tacked on right now).
 
After talking to a couple guys that have done this, they suggested to cut the shackle holes in the center and then adjust the front hanger (which is only tacked on right now).

use the template included in the kit.
put the axle on the springs w/ tires and lower the weight of the truck onto the ground so you can check your shackle angle. If you use brand new springs there will be some settling of the springs but it is way easier to adjust a tacked front hanger than a fully welded hanger if you find your shackle angle is fubar.

This is some info on hanger placement from Scott at Addicted off road, came in handy on both my builds
Front Spring Hanger Placement: (when using longer than stock springs like Trail Gears)

He can't with the 3" springs. In fact, he needs to mount it 1/4" back of the front crossmember for a decent shackle angle and to have the tie rod and draglink clear each other on compression. Otherwise he'll be having to move the steering box forward.

I have all of these lifts down to a science at this point.
3" springs: 1/4" in back of the frame. Push the frame tube jig all the way forward in the body mount.
4" Springs 1/2" in front. Center the frame tube jib in the body mount
5" springs 3/4" in front. Center the frame tube jib in the body mount
 
Last edited:
Thank you, good info.
Progress has stalled until my son can get the axle rebuilt.




use the template included in the kit.
put the axle on the springs w/ tires and lower the weight of the truck onto the ground so you can check your shackle angle. If you use brand new springs there will be some settling of the springs but it is way easier to adjust a tacked front hanger than a fully welded hanger if you find your shackle angle is fubar.

This is some info on hanger placement from Scott at Addicted off road, came in handy on both my builds
Front Spring Hanger Placement: (when using longer than stock springs like Trail Gears)
 

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