Seafoam? Just do it

To everyone using this season foam, I've got some real nice beachfront property I need to sell..... you'd look real good there.

Snake oil.
 
I have taken apart enough modern engines to question the usefulness of this product.

In my experience, unless it's direct injected or carburated, I don't expect much carbon buildup at all. It's usually pretty clean starting at the injectors, and past.

I would wonder if the seafoam treatment actually causes a relatively short term shift in the behavior of the O2 sensor, which results in an effective change in A/F mix, resulting in short term increase in fuel economy?

As far as burning oil after something like this... I have first hand experience, sort of related. Any excessive amount of non-lubricant fluid condensing on your cylinder walls will wash off lube oil and potentially cause galling of the piston skirt. Galling can eventually result in a nice, friendly little aluminum snowball creeping up to the edge of your oil control ring and holding it in just a bit. Suddenly, you're burning a lot of oil. I've seen this in vehicles that had a leaky fuel injector. Had one in a GM 3800 that leaked bad, all the time. Started suddenly. It bled off the fuel pressure when engine off and caused a VERY rich cylinder and severe misfiring when engine running. Customer ran it like this for a couple days. That cylinder ended up burning a lot of oil and eventually the bottom end needed refreshing to fix it.

Keep in mind that in every related bad experience of mine, the piston galled quickly and the oil burning was obvious within hours of engine operation. So, if you've done the treatment and a few weeks later you're not burning oil... I think you're OK. I wonder if pre-heating and vaporizing the fluid would result in less liquid sneaking down the cylinder wall. It seems that you're just trying to quench the cylinder with a mist of this stuff, get it to whet the entire face of the piston and inside of combustion chamber, wait a few minutes for it to soak, soften, and expand, then restart and let that tasty flame front burn a layer off.

Has anyone else put a camera down in their cylinders? Not sure if you guys realize it but those little chinese USB cameras on the end of a USB cable are like 10 bucks now. Just remember to give the last 6" of the friggin thing a nice wrap of electrical tape just in case that plastic head isn't crimped to the cable well. The last thing you want is to have to fish some nasty little communist electronics out of your capitalist combustion chamber.
I just watched a youtube video of a guy doing this. Ill see if I can find it again. But in the video it did clean off quite a bit of buildup on the top of the piston.

Found it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6UeJXkzDW8
 
yeah sorry definitely meant that mileage at 75mph. the v8 will do way more than 75mph.

i got 19.9mpg doing 60mph for a full tank. i prefer 80mph and 16.0mpg :biggrin2:

I drove 45 miles on the tank in town and then 335 miles on the highway to our destination and didn't fill up on the way. The low gas light turned on at 365 miles and when we arrived the range showed 8 miles left. It actually became a game with my kids to see if we could make it all the way up without stopping for gas. As in watching the range on the computer and the trip odometer to see if we could. This was the first tank after the seafoam treatment and I was curious on any effect.

I did reset the MPG calculator on the computer and when we showed up it indicated just over 20 mpg for the trip. I know this thing is not accurate, but my recollection is that I filled it up with 4 miles left and the car took just over 21 gallons on the fill up. That is a typical fill up when the range shows close to zero on the computer. That is also roughly 18 mpg on midrange fuel.

Certainly not a gas sipper but better than I have ever run with my truck on the highway at the speeds we were driving.

I should note that I did also do some other maintenance on my truck before leaving. I cleaned and lubed the brakes front and rear (the rear pads were tight and I had to wire brush the pad holders pretty hard before putting the stainless shims back in), put in a new air filter, checked tire pressures and so on. Did this help with mileage? Probably. But my previous mpg performance has been lower for a long time. Lower than when I first bought the trick 6 years ago and I have done similar maintenance in the past with no noticeable effect on mpg. That is what finally pushed me to try the Seafoam.

I did not realize this topic is so polarizing. For now, the seafoam appears to have had a positive effect on my engine performance and mileage. We shall see if it continues.
 
Last edited:
I drove 45 miles on the tank in town and then 335 miles on the highway to our destination and didn't fill up on the way. The low gas light turned on at 365 m.......

I did not realize this topic is so polarizing. For now, the seafoam appears to have had a positive effect on my engine performance and mileage. We shall see if it continues.

Any time you bring up dumping something other than fuel, oil, or coolant into a hole in your engine, the opinions come flying out :D

Someone else posted a youtube link. I'll have to watch this in detail. I've always been a bit skeptical about top end cleaning but I know that some OEM's recommend it. Heck, on some engines (The DI 5.2L V10 in the Audi S6's and S8's), if you don't clean the thing, it will choke on its own carbon snot to the point of constant stalling and misfire.
 
In the Gas tank?

What about putting SeaFoam in the gas tank as an additive. Would this have any positive cleaning effects, or would it be to diluted to help any?
 
you also think Synthetic is snake oil as well dont you?

Nope. Synthetic makes sense. That video someone posted of pistons before and after shows that it is ineffective. The Pistons had a very minimal amount of carbon removed. It was done on a 4 cylinder car and between all 4 cylinders, I'd say about 3 micrograms of carbon were removed.

The can is like $6... so by my calculations that would take about 290,000 miles to pay for itself in fuel savings. (My scientific estimation)
 
Nope. Synthetic makes sense. That video someone posted of pistons before and after shows that it is ineffective. The Pistons had a very minimal amount of carbon removed. It was done on a 4 cylinder car and between all 4 cylinders, I'd say about 3 micrograms of carbon were removed.

The can is like $6... so by my calculations that would take about 290,000 miles to pay for itself in fuel savings. (My scientific estimation)

if you're that hard up for $6 then i cant help you. But you seemingly care too much over $6.
 
if you're that hard up for $6 then i cant help you. But you seemingly care too much over $6.

No need to patronize me over a difference in opinion. I haven't been rude to anyone while giving my opinion.

Spend your money how you see fit.
 
No need to patronize me over a difference in opinion. I haven't been rude to anyone while giving my opinion.

Spend your money how you see fit.

so i should come up with some extravagant estimation to validate my bogus claim? Cool you dont believe in it, many do and have had good success with it. Blatantly calling it snake oil based off opinion is ignorant.
 
Last edited:
so i should come up with some extravagant estimation to validate my bogus claim? Cool you dont believe in it, many do and have had good success with it. Blatantly calling it snake out based off opinion is ignorant.

kvKXd.gif
 
I just watched a youtube video of a guy doing this. Ill see if I can find it again. But in the video it did clean off quite a bit of buildup on the top of the piston.

Found it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6UeJXkzDW8

Interesting video.

Notice that the majority of the carbon buildup is not touched - Most of what changed was the surfaces that were mostly clean, but "stained" a little dark... To me, it doesn't look like enough difference to matter. Any carbon buildup on a piston can result in a hot spot which can result in detonation which will result in retarded spark timing.

I think the biggest problem here might be the combustion itself. You are burning half of the seafoam that you spray in there. If the goal is to clean the top of the pistons, I suspect that a better way would be:

1 - Remove spark plugs and fog the cylinder, making sure that top of pistons is coated but not so soaked that you have seafoam running down your cylinder walls.

2 - Let sit for a day and soak in. Repeat.

3 - Fog the hell out of the cylinder with fogging oil and turn it over by hand a few times to make sure you still have some decent lube on the cylinder walls.

4 - Start it up and load it down as soon as oil pressure has stabilized and initial smoke plume has started to dissipate.

It seem that this would likely remove a lot more carbon from the pistons, if that is the goal.

In general, I have never had a problem with severe spark retardation due to detonation issues. This might be due to the sunoco down the street having 91 octane 100% gasoline which I run in all my cars. Maybe if I switched to some ethanol-bearing 87 octane I would see a problem... I don't know.

Regardless, interesting video, and I wonder what a longer/more thorough treatment would result in.
 
In general, I have never had a problem with severe spark retardation due to detonation issues. This might be due to the sunoco down the street having 91 octane 100% gasoline which I run in all my cars. Maybe if I switched to some ethanol-bearing 87 octane I would see a problem... I don't know.

I wondered about the same thing. The boring academic paper I linked earlier did have a couple interesting sections in it.

Petroleum Fuels
Petroleum fuels, such as gasoline, diesel, and jet fuel contain a complex mixture of hundreds of hydrocarbons. The hydrocarbons vary by class—paraffins, olefins, and aromatics, depending on the nature of chemical bonding between the carbon atoms in hydrocarbon molecules. These fuels also contain additives designed for specific purposes. The molecular composition of fuels determines their physical properties, engine performance, and thermal stability characteristics.

Then later on

Deposit formation in gasoline engines appears to depend strongly on the chemical composition of high-boiling components of gasoline that have high deposition tendencies. Charlisle et al. (8) studied the effect of fuel composition on air-assisted direct injection spark ignition research engine and concluded that the aromatic hydrocarbon content of the fuel has a significant effect on deposit formation, higher the aromatics content more extensive was the deposit formation. The fuel olefin content, however, showed a less significant effect on deposit formation.


I couldn't help but wonder if the types of gas available regionally and seasonally have some effect on carbon formation. For example, here in the upper midwest we have a summer blend and a winter blend. We also have ethanol in our gas.

That doesn't even get into the differences in additives that likely exist between the premium brands and the cheap no name guy down the street.

I guess my point here is that we may be seeing some differences in carbon build up due to the variety of fuel types available around the country. Your local all gas 91 octane might actually work well in preventing carbon build up while the choices I have might provide a more mixed result. We can all claim that we baby our 4runners and only feed them the best but when it is zero degrees out and you are on empty you buy what is convenient. And in my high tax state the difference between 87 octane and midrange can run 40-50 cents per gallon. Forget about premium.

Additionally, the article talks a lot about achieving the right temps in the engine for the gas mixes to perform well. I spend 3-4 months each year in truly cold weather so my engine takes longer to warm up. As I drive around town a lot more than on the highway I may not always achieve an optimum temp in the engine. Does this affect carbon build up? The article seems to imply that it would. See below

Guthrie (6), on the other hand, found that the surface temperature was the most important factor in the formation of deposits. Similarly, Kinoshita et al. (7) suggested that the best solution for deposit control was to use an insulating material on the areas of the injector exposed to the combustion chamber so as to raise the surface temperature to levels high enough to prevent deposit formation, i.e., 350 ̊C, through oxidation/gasification of deposits, or deposit precursors

I have been carefully listening to my truck as before I did the seafoam I was getting some knocking under acceleration. And I only noticed this in the last year or so. Putting a higher octane gas in fixed it. But the article does talk about the fact that if you get enough carbon around the piston and valves you increase compression which leads to knocking and a need for higher octane fuel. My latest tank is 87 octane regular and I cannot hear any knocking at all anymore. Yes, I get it that this is anecdotal, but I as I try to drive my cars until they are truly dead I am pretty picky about listening for any signs of an issue so I can deal with it before it turns into something serious/expensive.

Latest tank trending towards 320 miles or so before the fuel light goes on. All in town stop and go driving. Nothing spectacular, but better than I have been getting by about 30 miles.

I suspect that this is a topic that will never find common ground. I cannot imagine how the scientists who study this stuff don't rip their hair out reading papers like the one I referenced. Just look at this conclusion

Conclusions
The long-term automotive and aircraft related technological benefits can be derived from fundamental understanding of fuel thermal stability issues such as, free radical autoxidation mechanism, establishing a global chemistry model, understanding of fuel-metal surface interactions, and developing additive packages to increase the thermal stability of gasoline, diesel, and jet fuels. Research and development efforts in these areas will help eliminate the operational problems associated with carbon deposit accumulation on various components of fuel delivery and combustion systems in internal combustion engines.


Sixteen other papers cited to end up with the conclusion that more research is required. This debate will never end.
 
I wondered about the same thing. The boring academic paper I linked earlier did have a couple interesting sections in it.

.............ery and combustion systems in internal combustion engines.[/I]

Sixteen other papers cited to end up with the conclusion that more research is required. This debate will never end.

Fascinating paper! I'll have to read through this. I think that with the availability of these little USB cameras, it would be cool to start a sticky thread and have people post when they change their spark plugs: Picture of each cylinder, engine mileage, area of the country, typical fuel they use, driving habits, etc - Maybe with enough data points, we could learn a lot more about this, at least as it relates to the Toyota SUV engine series.
 
Yeah, until I see scientific results fortifying SF's claims AND the acceptance of the automotive community, I'm staying away from the stuff.
 
I have read the threads on Seafoam for a number of years here but never did it to my 2004. But the other day I was in the local AutoZone and they had it on sale for 7 bucks a bottle. I have a V8 with 170K miles

I did it by slowly pouring the seafoam in the hose that I pulled off the drivers side valve cover and got the usual smoke, especially after I shut the engine off after pouring the last of the seafoam in, letting it sit for 10 minutes and then driving around my neighborhood. It was like a smoke screen. There are plenty of threads on this site walking through it. I did stick a funnel in the hose to make it easier to pour the Seafoam in.

The improvement in gas mileage has been amazing. Highway driving a week later at 75 miles per hour with A/C on in a completely full truck (me, kids and every space full of gear for a fishing trip) I got 365 miles before the gas light came on. This with the first 45 miles on the tank driving around town!

Now back in town the mileage is still far better. City driving and made it to 348 miles before the gas light. Again, far better than before.

So it looks like about 10-12 percent better mileage just from the treatment. If you have not done this to your truck you may want to just go ahead and do it. I am just sorry I didn't do it sooner.


I barely get 300 in mine, wtf? Even when I didn't have the added weight from sound insulation, tires, and bumper it was just a little over 300. I call BS.
 
So I asked my mechanic and he said Seafoam is a waste. He recommended a fuel additive but I don't recall the name at the moment (had a crazy day). I'll post it once I find out.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,310
Messages
3,554,079
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top