Seat Heater Rheostat Question

SR_5runner

SR_5runner

New member
Hello all,

As I am gathering info to add a sub to my 4runner, I had an interesting idea. Looking to retain a stock look, I already have a factory JBL sub box, but was wondering if I could adapt a stock seat heater rheostat switch to work for a remote gain knob. Being that I am far from expert or even knowledgable on electricity and even audio in most aspects, I am hoping for some of the crafty, ingenious members here to maybe lend their brains to seeing if this is something I could feasibly make work. Any help anyone could provide would be the most awesome of help! Thanks in advance for any info!
 
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SR_5runner said:
Hello all,

As I am gathering info to add a sub to my 4runner, I had an interesting idea. Looking to retain a stock look, I already have a factory JBL sub box, but was wondering if I could adapt a stock seat heater rheostat switch to work for a remote gain knob. Being that I am far from expert or even knowledgable on electricity and even audio in most aspects, I am hoping for some of the crafty, ingenious members here to maybe lend their brains to seeing if this is something I could feasibly make work. Any help anyone could provide would be the most awesome of help! Thanks in advance for any info!
Click to expand...

This is an interesting idea for sure! However, I need a little more of an idea what end result you desire.

Do you plan on the seat heater functioning AND the gain control functioning? This scenario would allow high gains to your amplifier with simultaneous high temps to your butt. I'm gonna step out on a limb here, and say your ears don't change based on your rear's temp... but I have heard stranger things.

Does your heater no longer work and do you never plan to make it operational again? Or do you plan on having a seat warmer in the future which would require another button to be purchased?

What is the Make/Model/Serial of your amp? With a copy of the wiring diagram, I can sketch you up a diagram. Also, can you get a pic of the Toy rheostat... any part numbers off of that would be great when determining if it can handle the Volts/Current the amplifier will need.

Definitely a badass idea from a wiring perspective.
 
I'd love to elaborate! I currently have an 05 SR5. It does not have seat heaters, and has the three blank "switch banks" on the center console where factory buttons would go. My idea is to take a factory rheostat seat heater switch that will fit into one of the center console banks and have it as the remote gain control.

My plan is to install a JL Audio 8W3v3-4 into an already purchased Factory JBL sub box.

( 8W3v3-4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W3v3 - JL Audio )

I also plan on using a Soundstream ST1-700D amp

( Soundstream ST1-700D Mono subwoofer amplifier ? 450 watts RMS at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com )

that I can hopefully hide in the same JBL sub box location or most definitely under the seat. This amp also comes with a remote gain knob/ control so the rheostat switch would be retrofitted in place of the Soundstream knob supplied hopefully.

I believe the part number for the LH seat heater switch is 8475135090. I have not been able to locate a wiring diagram or schematic and even if I could may lack the full knowledge of understanding what bits I need to be able to do the retrofit.

Hope this helps! Thanks for any help in advance!
 
Just thought about this.... if we can't get a copy of those diagrams, you could just pop open the amplifier case and switch. Transplant the gain control potentiometer into the OEM rheostat and run wiring from the switch to the amp.

by the way, its important to understand that gains shouldnt need to be adjusted very often. After initial tuning they are really best left alone.

if your preference changes based on playing rap one day and rock the next, a standalone equalizer is a better way to adjust. Depending on what head unit you are running, some have awesome eq's built-in.
 
My idea is to take a factory rheostat seat heater switch that will fit into one of the center console banks and have it as the remote gain control.
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AVe201
 
4RunnerHeirlooms said:
Just thought about this.... if we can't get a copy of those diagrams, you could just pop open the amplifier case and switch. Transplant the gain control potentiometer into the OEM rheostat and run wiring from the switch to the amp.

by the way, its important to understand that gains shouldnt need to be adjusted very often. After initial tuning they are really best left alone.

if your preference changes based on playing rap one day and rock the next, a standalone equalizer is a better way to adjust. Depending on what head unit you are running, some have awesome eq's built-in.
Click to expand...

I thought about just doing an internal swap, but that is where my lack of knowledge starts to appear. I cant quite visualize it but it seems like a pretty simple plan to execute. Also, I ask this out of ignorance vs. challenging, but could you elaborate on why the gain remote would be included with an amp if it's not necessarily a good idea to adjust it? I also forgot to mention that I have an E7019 Toyota Nav head unit installed, so no built in EQ ability.

I'm not overly concerned about having a "hi-fi" audio setup, more focused on being able to tone down the bass from the sub for songs not needing it, but also without removing the bass added from the OEM door speakers
 
I fear I will never understand putting $hundreds/$thousands into a sound system and "not being concerned about having a hi-fi setup"...but to each their own, i guess.

As for the remote, the amp will control the output (voltage) sent to the speakers in different ways. The gain is typically set to maximum output and then speaker output is modulated (based on preference) by a bass boost. Difference being where the voltage is changed: input to the amplifier or output to the speaker.

You can think of gain as a safety mechanism from blowing the physical drivers of your sub and/or clipping the sound signal, and the bass boost as a preference control knob (however, it can also cause clipping). Sorry I missed SoundStream is adjusting the gain, these are usually "bass boost remotes", and I am thinking about writing them a cease/desist letter for misinformation to the public.

I digress back to the point, the internal swap is only necessary if we cannot obtain wiring diagrams for the switch/amp. And as with all internal swaps, we will need to break into the switch and amp and then investigate "how" to do it. Do you have the switch/amp purchased and in-hand?
 
Maybe I need to clarify a bit. Would I love to put in a complete, "hi-fi" system in my car, from a great sub, to sound deadening all over, excellent door speakers, new wiring, and a head unit that has all the best features I would want? Sure, but unfortunately that's not even a realistic dream for me at this point so my next option is to invest a reasonable amount IMO(~$300 tops) to make the sound a little more enjoyable.

In regards to having the amp/switch in hand, I actually emailed SoundStream about getting any sort of schematic in regards to the amp and switch and the response I got back was:

"The manual is available for download on the website. As far as electrical specs of the remote we do not have that. It does come with one though."

Can't honestly say that statement encourages me to buy their product yet...
 
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