Seeking advice for Hi-Lift jack points please

J

jjdbike

New member
Hi folks
New to Hi-Lift jack. I have a 2011 SR5 lifted 2 1/2” w/ 8” wide FN wheels Konig 6 shooter w/ 285s. Stock bumpers, I removed front air dam & have front & rear trailer hitches. Also have Metal Tech Rock Sliders bolted on.
What jack points would you recomend for Hi-Lift on this vehicle?
I’m consiering:
*rock slider rails
*Wheel lift accessory (might that damage wheel or damage suspension or wreck alignment?)
* Front & rear trailer 2” reciever hitch, but wonder if there’s an attachment that might make that safer.
I’m also planning on ordering a Safe JackBase / Sabalizer plate w/ cables.
Any suggestions & advice is greatly appreciated!
JD
 
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First two options I wouldn't do. Especially the rock slider rails....


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PWD4R said:
First two options I wouldn't do. Especially the rock slider rails....


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Click to expand...

So are you saying w/out aftermarket bumpers, my only hi lift jack points are the front & rear 2" hitch reciever? that would be a center lift not a corner lift.
You must also be implying that jacking from the rock sliders would bend them &
the hi lift wheel strap lift accessory would damage the vehicle?
Are there any other jack point options?
Thanks
JD
 
Man, this comes up so often.

You can use any hard point to lift with the Hilift. Plate/tube bumpers, sliders, hitch, etc. Or get a Liftmate (rubber coated hooks don't harm your pretty little wheels), or even just a stout cam-buckle strap, and a small jack stand. Whatever you do, make sure the jack is secured to the lift point and the vehicle is stabilized (ebrake, wheel chocks, etc).

Jack of All Trades | Expedition Portal
 
T4RZAN said:
I'm not sure if PWD4R is kidding or not. For using a hi lift on sliders I would suggest using an adapter and be sure to use the off road base. There are plenty of slider adapters out there such as the JakJaw



https://www.sierraexpeditions.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=13418
Click to expand...



I wasn't kidding. I just personally wouldn't do it on the sliders because it would be just the way that you need to access your hi-lift but it's wedged up against the rock and your slider with a flat lol. I just have crappy luck I guess so I wouldn't personally. It's a safe spot of course and sturdy I would just be worried about accessibility on a trail.


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HOLY CRAP! I thought this post was about MOUNTING a hi lift jack lmfao!!!! Sorry!!! Yes absolutely do it on a slider if applicable hahaha. My bad!! I feel like an internet idiot. It's too early to be this stupid. Sorry guys.


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PWD4R said:
HOLY CRAP! I thought this post was about MOUNTING a hi lift jack lmfao!!!! Sorry!!! Yes absolutely do it on a slider if applicable hahaha. My bad!! I feel like an internet idiot. It's too early to be this stupid. Sorry guys.


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Thanks for clarifying. You did have me concerned. To me the rails seemed to be a better option to lift the whole vehicle in certain situations, e.g. framed in soft sand and needing to clear sand away from underneath. I did order that Sierra Expedition Jac Jaw to lift the rail.
I'm going to keep it inside across the back by the liftgate. Next I need to figure out how to secure it to those metal tie down loops on the sides in back.
 
Thanks Kid V.
Those things do look useful. I can think of about 10 things I could use those for now. I'm not sure if they'd be strong enough to secure a Hi Lift in case of accident or other sudden unexpected mishap. As big & heavy as that is, it should prolly be locked down pretty securely.
JD
 
jjdbike said:
Thanks Kid V.
Those things do look useful. I can think of about 10 things I could use those for now. I'm not sure if they'd be strong enough to secure a Hi Lift in case of accident or other sudden unexpected mishap. As big & heavy as that is, it should prolly be locked down pretty securely.
JD
Click to expand...

I use them to strap my shovel and pulaski to the roof rack before I hit the trail, it secures them fine up there with no movement after hours of banging around on the trail. The Hi Lift is probably a bit heavy for that, but I think they'd work great to secure it to the floor of your cargo area.

I've seen guys build mounts that bolt in place of the cargo tie downs, that'd work too if you were feeling crafty.
 
KidVermicious said:
I use them to strap my shovel and pulaski to the roof rack before I hit the trail, it secures them fine up there with no movement after hours of banging around on the trail. The Hi Lift is probably a bit heavy for that, but I think they'd work great to secure it to the floor of your cargo area.

I've seen guys build mounts that bolt in place of the cargo tie downs, that'd work too if you were feeling crafty.
Click to expand...
Thanks.
No craftiness needed actually. I’ve got an awesome mom & pop owned ACE hardwear store locally. I bought two of the chain link connectors w/ the open slot on the side, threaded w/ a nut to lock it down. It’s working load is 850lbs. I simply looped them through holes on each side of the jack and through the D ring tie downs. They have a little wiggle room so a sinched them tight w/ small zip ties that I can break by hand if I need the jack.
Today I’m going to try using the jack on a couple points. Don’t want the 1st time I’m trying to use it to be off road... in the dark... in a storm (Murpy’s Law & my luck). I have a Jac Jaw for the rails (also think they’d work on the front or rear hitch reciever) & a lift mate for the wheels.
Thanks again!
JD
 
I've used a Jack-Mate from Hi-Lift jacks very successfully. The rubber coating does not scratch the wheels, but the offroading does so.....moot point really.

I like the jack mate because it lifts the entire wheel so you can stuff some rocks or wood under to get the clearance needed for the obstacle. Lifting from a rock slider takes lots of lifting since the wheels will droop down. I've done it, my rock sliders are square tube. My buddies have round tube with the adapter. Seems to work. I'm worried it will slide off.

Lifting from a hitch recceiver isn't very recomended because you end up with half the truck teeter totering right in the center, for me that's a receipe for disaster.

But if I can get away with still using a bottle jack that's what I use. If you can stick it under a front control arm, skid plate, rear axle tube it's much safer, provides more control, takes way less effort, and there is no rebound from the handle. Especially if it's for tire changes, and repairs.
 
PWD4R said:
First two options I wouldn't do. Especially the rock slider rails....


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Click to expand...

they make an adapter specifically for use with rails, to prevent it from sliding out from under them. a Good set of rails should support the weight of the vehicle.
 
Dorobuta said:
they make an adapter specifically for use with rails, to prevent it from sliding out from under them. a Good set of rails should support the weight of the vehicle.
Click to expand...
Yup, I bought one. They are the ones someone posted here in this thread, i.e., Sierra Expeditions Jac Jaw.
Thanks!
JD
 
Dorobuta said:
they make an adapter specifically for use with rails, to prevent it from sliding out from under them. a Good set of rails should support the weight of the vehicle.
Click to expand...
I know. If you read my later comments you'll understand my misinterpretation.

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