Seized 14mm top hat bolt :(

The 14mm bolt on the far side of one of my tophats is seized and no socket can reach back there. I've tried hammers, lots and lots of wd-40 and white lithium. It feels like I'm doing more damage on the outside of the bolt by trying to get it out. What should I do? I thought this install was going to be super simple but it is more stubborn than expected.
 
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Make sure u are using a the closed end of a combination wrench and if u can lock another wrench on the other end as a cheater that will make is a little easier I just installed a leveling kit and the nuts on the back are really frustrating to say the least. They have a high strength thread locker on them there was lots of curse words in my garage that afternoon try using a stronger penetrating oil then wd too

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Also with above method. If necessary to give you more room. Use the no spring method and remove your shock assembly out, that will give you more access.
 
I use high quality ratcheting wrenches to get those btches out. But if you are locked on and you can't budge it I would recommend buying a big enough cheater pipe to go over the end of your wrench or ratchet. If that does work I would hit it with a torch. If that doesn't work, time for a Sawzall.

See if there is anything try pry against. I JUST did my shocks today and the #1 tools that made my life sooooo easy was a 36" cheater pipe and a 36" pry bar. I commonly set my wreck and then find something to pry against. Easy peasy.
 
For those hard to reach bolts, I found these curved wrenches to be really helpful.
 

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Also with above method. If necessary to give you more room. Use the no spring method and remove your shock assembly out, that will give you more access.

I was actually trying to do this method but the A arm bolt in front was pretty on there as well. Drowned everything in WD white lithium and will try again tomorrow or Monday.

I use high quality ratcheting wrenches to get those btches out. But if you are locked on and you can't budge it I would recommend buying a big enough cheater pipe to go over the end of your wrench or ratchet. If that does work I would hit it with a torch. If that doesn't work, time for a Sawzall.

See if there is anything try pry against. I JUST did my shocks today and the #1 tools that made my life sooooo easy was a 36" cheater pipe and a 36" pry bar. I commonly set my wreck and then find something to pry against. Easy peasy.

Oh man I wish I had one of those. I broke 2 ratchets from hammering it too hard when trying to loosen the A arm bolts. ****ing 2 of them.

For those hard to reach bolts, I found these curved wrenches to be really helpful.

These wrenches look awesome. Where did you find these?
 
So you can't break loose the Lower control arm bolts on the steering knuckle?

Not those. Those came off pretty easily. The camber bolts on the arm was the issue. The arm didn't swing down far enough to pull the strut out. Broke 2 of my ratchets with it. Shredded the teeth on one and broke connecting bit on the other. Cheap harbor freight crap.
 
Not those. Those came off pretty easily. The camber bolts on the arm was the issue. The arm didn't swing down far enough to pull the strut out. Broke 2 of my ratchets with it. Shredded the teeth on one and broke connecting bit on the other. Cheap harbor freight crap.

No no no no. You do NOT need to do this. You need a pry bar of some kind. Hook it uner the lca and over the lbj and push down. This seems like it would damage the lbj but it doesn't and the shock will go in and out no problem. This is a 2 man job though. Last one of the night for me yesterday I just grabbed one of the neighbor kids off the street. He's 12 so I know it's not that hard.

It looks like this. http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...3ojQ0vn8lsHmgUFv4x_0K1ezjmQwXZr33zBoCTn3w_wcB

This, a set of ratcheting wrenches, a 36" cheater pipe and grinding wheels for my Dremel were key to a still long two days of Changing 10 year old shocks.
 
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You shouldn't need to loosen the LCA bolts themselves, just push the arm down with leverage Like Morphyne and I are talking about.
I still can't figure out how to paste n glue these threads. Google below.


OME Install - no spring compressor - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum
 
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You shouldn't need to loosen the LCA bolts themselves, just push the arm down with leverage Like Morphyne and I are talking about.
I still can't figure out how to paste n glue these threads. Google below.


OME Install - no spring compressor - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

I'm gunna try again with these directions. I followed a video on youtube but it was for a tacoma. Figured our trucks are basically the same.
 
you should put the front 2 bolts back in to relieve the weight on the rear one. then you should use a small vice grip on the rear and hit it with a hammer. this should break it loose enough for a combo wrench to get back there.
 
as a last resort... you can always heat up the nut with a torch, it will definitely come off then. But that is really a last resort.
 
as a last resort... you can always heat up the nut with a torch, it will definitely come off then. But that is really a last resort.

I spray every nut that I'm gonna turn with penetrating fluid first. If it takes me any more effort than it should to break it free, out comes the torch. I'd rather heat it up than sheer anything. :flame:
 
I ended up taking it to a shop to have them put it on. There was a lot of cursing and frustration on their end with that bolt. Even with bendy joints and whatnot they had difficulty with it. I feel bad for them but it kinda makes me feel better that it wasn't just me. Tires getting put on right now as well.
 

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