Seized cam bolts, need help

[Asaspades93]

So I recently upgraded my front struts and lower ball joints and went to take it for an alignment and was told my tie rods were shot so they wouldn't align it. I replaced both inner and outer tie rods and took it to firestone to get lifetime alignments and was told they couldn't align it due to seized cam bolts.
I am looking for a solution to this problem, I searched and found a few options
-Cut and torch out the cam bolts and buy new as well as replace the bushings
-New lower control arms
- New adjustable upper control arms as I could do the work myself and have them do the alignment off of that
I am leaning towards upper control arms but would really appreciate any input you guys have

 

[kindred4x]

If money isn't tight i would recommend replacing the lower control arms and cam bolts with OEM parts from camelback. I replaced my lower control arm bushings and man it was a bit$ch to get the old bushings out, even harder to get the ones out that had snapped seized cam bolts in them. The bottle jack method did not work for me and i could not line up the arm in my press, i ended up using a torch to release the bushing sleeves from the rubber(messy,stinky) and a air chisel to get the outer sleeve loose from the arm. and please dont skimp on the cam bolts, i bought some moog ones from rock auto and the eccentric washer stripped while i was doing a eyeball alignment just to make it to the alignment shop and that was with the front up in the air!

 

[LookAtThatDog]

I went through this last week. I went to the dealership for an alignment, and they said they couldnt align it because of tie rods and lca bolts. I replaced inner and outer tie rods and ball joints. I took it to a different shop and they said Adjusting toe can change camber alignment. When the do an alignment, they start with toe and work their way from there. That pic says your camber is much further off than mine, but perhaps the toe will still have an effect?

Here's my alignment stuff:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/30/1ff629f25e905afc782dc5faa3c290fd.jpg

When I was concerned about the bolts, I was able to free the front ones pretty easily, but the rear lca bolts were harder to get to.

I used this guy's technique successfully for the front ones, where I could fit my impact drill:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11aiQIeBZR8&list

Just keep spraying them down with liquid wrench and use the ball pin hammer and you'll have some success. If that doesn't work out, then throw some money at it (upper control arms, sawzall bolts off, etc)

good luck

 

[shootmymime]

I think this guys idea might work pretty good.
He was funny to watch also

 

[LookAtThatDog]

Yeah it definitely has an effect. Whether or not it will be enough to get the bolt loose is something else. I hope you watched both parts.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I went through this last week. I went to the dealership for an alignment, and they said they couldnt align it because of tie rods and lca bolts. I replaced inner and outer tie rods and ball joints. I took it to a different shop and they said Adjusting toe can change camber alignment. When the do an alignment, they start with toe and work their way from there. That pic says your camber is much further off than mine, but perhaps the toe will still have an effect?

Here's my alignment stuff:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/30/1ff629f25e905afc782dc5faa3c290fd.jpg

When I was concerned about the bolts, I was able to free the front ones pretty easily, but the rear lca bolts were harder to get to.

I used this guy's technique successfully for the front ones, where I could fit my impact drill:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11aiQIeBZR8&list

Just keep spraying them down with liquid wrench and use the ball pin hammer and you'll have some success. If that doesn't work out, then throw some money at it (upper control arms, sawzall bolts off, etc)

good luck

Unless you got it backwards, that shop is wrong. Adjusting the cams drastically affects the toe adjustment. The proper procedure when doing an alignment is to make all rear adjustments first (not really applicable to our 3rd gens) then adjust camber/caster then finally toe.

When I did my LCAs, I tried a heat with the bottle jack , no go. I got rid of the inner part with the sleeve, leaving just the outer part. I used a large, round pin drift and using the edge of the drift, I beat out the sleeve (on the side without the lip) until it was curled inward ( which gave me more metal to put the drift on. Used a small 2 lb sledge hammer with the LCA in a vise. Took me about 10 minutes for each bushing.

 

[nissanh]

LCA bolts are tricky. It is not frozen. You got to loose the bolt FIRST. The nut is soldered into the washer and it never ever can be loosen without getting the nut first. I carry extra lower control nut/bolt to show to the tech at the firestone, otherwise they say the nut is frozen!

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

LCA bolts are tricky. It is not frozen. You got to loose the bolt FIRST. The nut is soldered into the washer and it never ever can be loosen without getting the nut first. I carry extra lower control nut/bolt to show to the tech at the firestone, otherwise they say the nut is frozen!

That's a great idea. Both times I had my alignment done, I had to explain to the tech how those cams loosened. The "nut" that doesn't move is what you put your wrench on to adjust the cam. The other side is the head of the bolt that locks and loosens the cam. Really simple.

 

[shootmymime]

:worthless:

 

[Asaspades93]

LCA bolts are tricky. It is not frozen. You got to loose the bolt FIRST. The nut is soldered into the washer and it never ever can be loosen without getting the nut first. I carry extra lower control nut/bolt to show to the tech at the firestone, otherwise they say the nut is frozen!

That's a great idea. Both times I had my alignment done, I had to explain to the tech how those cams loosened. The "nut" that doesn't move is what you put your wrench on to adjust the cam. The other side is the head of the bolt that locks and loosens the cam. Really simple.

:worthless:

I think I understand what your saying. I have to go from inside the control arm and get the nut loose and then I can adjust it? or I have to get the bolt from the front and then adjust from inside the control arm. like in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmgTCKbOXI8

I know mime, I didn't get around to it today, just soaked each cam bolt in pbb about 8 times. If I could afford it I'd get uppers and lowers but I spent just about all mmy spare money :/

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I think I understand what your saying. I have to go from inside the control arm and get the nut loose and then I can adjust it? or I have to get the bolt from the front and then adjust from inside the control arm. like in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmgTCKbOXI8

I know mime, I didn't get around to it today, just soaked each cam bolt in pbb about 8 times. If I could afford it I'd get uppers and lowers but I spent just about all mmy spare money :/

The front cams of the LCAs (towards the front of the truck) the bolt is in the front. On the back bushings, the bolts are on the back, (towards the steering rack, which is in the way of putting a ratchet on it - need a wrench) Loosen those up then go to the opposite side with the cone shaped thing with a hex head on it to adjust.

 

[Asaspades93]

lots and lots of pbb!! was able to break the front and rear bolts loose. Didn't attempt to adjust the camber or toe, I'll leave that up to a shop. I really appreciate the info, I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow

 

[LookAtThatDog]

What's the word, op?