Seized Engine Removal Help.

[HAIGHT4X4]

Seized Engine Removal Help. fly wheel to transmission.

Trying to pull Seized Engine out of 99 4runner.
How do i break apart transmission and engine if i cant spin crankshaft to get to the other fly wheel bolts. one is exposed. yes the engine is completely seized.
Do i have to pull transmission with engine to separate the two if seized?
I have a 98 i'm about to pull the engine and drop into the 99.
Fly wheel bolts should be no problem on the 98 seeing as the engine is not seized. trying to avoid pulling both the engine and transmission on both trucks, cracking them apart and re assembling the good good engine with the 99 transmission.
Any help would be appreciated.
Chris.:canada:

 

[HiLife]

How is it seized?
This would be kind of messy if was the rods...I would drop the oil pan and free up the rods to turn the crank. If this doesn't work it looks like the trans will have to be pulled with the engine.

 

[HAIGHT4X4]

How is it seized?
This would be kind of messy if was the rods...I would drop the oil pan and free up the rods to turn the crank. If this doesn't work it looks like the trans will have to be pulled with the engine.

Cant even get the crankshaft to turn half inch. Pink milkshake was the problem.
Trucks almost mint engine seized up. bought to swap engine. taking a risk leaving the transmission in anyways. 98 has e locker.
So say i drop the pan and no dice. easiest route to pulling together?
Bolt bell housing back together and unbolt transmission/engine mounts and wiring?
Then what? how do i separate them on the floor if the rods don't move? or am i SOL?
Should of thought that one out a bit better.
Cheers bud.

 

[HiLife]

Ya no easy way around it, I feel for you. Since it already had the pink milkshake, I would pull the engine and trans together and write it off. Other members on here report on having trans problems that later pop up a couple thousand miles later. Hate for you to go through all the problems of separating the 2 units, and later drop the trans again because something is going crazy with it. You should search trans failures on the search engine here and come to your own decision of keeping the trans or not. Best of luck!

 

[nissanh]

How could a pink milkshake seize the engine?

 

[zgensler31]

Wait so you had a pink milkshake that waa bad enough to seize the motor, but you think the trans is still gonna be good??? Bro that things trash.

 

[cashmoney]

Dump a ton of diesel or kroil into each cylinder and let it sit for a day or two. As long as nothing welded itself together that should loosen it up. That or rip the heads off and beat on the pistons directly until it rotates.

 

[azcat90]

So the compromised coolant caused the engine to overheat?

 

[4Runnermex]

This is so easy!!
Hook your hoist to engine and start lifting and also lift tranny to the highest point along with engine.

Pull completely out with torque converter and also have a big oil pan cause it's gonna leak.

Remove cross exhaust piece, use flat 6point wrench to break your bolts loose. Do it with a spotter that last bolt out the converter is pretty heavy trying to catch.

Trust me I've done about 5 swaps with this issue. It's a bit messy but the fastest quickest way.
If you have any questions PM And I'll send you my number. I've done a total of over 40 3rd gen swaps.. Pretty good at it too

 

[HAIGHT4X4]

How could a pink milkshake seize the engine?

Bought it as parts truck. Engine overheated.

 

[HAIGHT4X4]

Wait so you had a pink milkshake that waa bad enough to seize the motor, but you think the trans is still gonna be good??? Bro that things trash.

yo comprend eh, yo comprend eh. Cant get them apart if i wanted to. Guy that had her probably didn't do reg maintenance.

 

[HAIGHT4X4]

So the compromised coolant caused the engine to overheat?

Not quite sure what he did to her. going to tear apart seized engine after i figure out the running one. lol

 

[HAIGHT4X4]

Update:

UPDATE:

- Pulled Seized 99 Engine with Transmission attached out of the engine bay.
- Pulled Running Engine with transmission attached out of 98 with E-Locker.
- Dropped Running 98 eng/tran into 99 4runner.
- Flushed Rad and Replaced Thermostat and Gasket.
- Install Transmission Oil Cooler. waiting for inline filter.
- New fluids. Starts No Problem. Still needs some love.
- Small Break in Power steering lines (hard line). is there an easy fix for this?
- Needs Fresh Exhaust Gaskets from Y pipe back.
- Trying to rebuild 98 back door and wire up to running 99 that was cut off @ harness.
- Whats my best bet for finding out what wires go where? everything's color coded. but nothings matching up. Should i use a multi meter?
- Anyone ever completely rewire one of these backdoor to work?

I Will try and update progress with pics. thanks for everyone's help. Cheers.

 

[TheDurk]

Wait, you were able to wire up a '98 engine with a butchered harness into a '99 truck with no problems but you are hung up only on the back door? Wow.

This is ctually going to be something of a pain. '99 back door ECU is a lot smarter than the '98 and is married to front Body ECU by a multi plex communication bus for a lot of functions. It's all pretty different from '98, where the Body ECU is replaced by something called an integration relay, and no communication bus.

I really think you need to transplant all the wiring and ECU from the '99 back door into the '98 door shell or you are going to have beaucoup problems. You will never be able to marry them at the junction between the door and the body, if that is what you are thinking, without losing a LOT of functionality.

 

[HAIGHT4X4]

Wait, you were able to wire up a '98 engine with a butchered harness into a '99 truck with no problems but you are hung up only on the back door? Wow.

This is ctually going to be something of a pain. '99 back door ECU is a lot smarter than the '98 and is married to front Body ECU by a multi plex communication bus for a lot of functions. It's all pretty different from '98, where the Body ECU is replaced by something called an integration relay, and no communication bus.

I really think you need to transplant all the wiring and ECU from the '99 back door into the '98 door shell or you are going to have beaucoup problems. You will never be able to marry them at the junction between the door and the body, if that is what you are thinking, without losing a LOT of functionality.

Thanks for the info. When you say lose functionality, what exactly would i lose?
Wondering if i could i wire it up so that the rear wiper and defog work?
Not to worried about the back window going down. need this one to work for now until i find a 99 rear hatch. seems impossible to find one let alone one to match. Say i cant find one. do you know a good place to find the wiring and ECU for a 99. It would really suck to toss in the towel over the back door. Shes a little dirty in the pics. need to figure out back door before i start building her up. thanks again for any help.

 

[TheDurk]

Thanks for the info. When you say lose functionality, what exactly would i lose?
Wondering if i could i wire it up so that the rear wiper and defog work?
Not to worried about the back window going down. need this one to work for now until i find a 99 rear hatch. seems impossible to find one let alone one to match. Say i cant find one. do you know a good place to find the wiring and ECU for a 99. It would really suck to toss in the towel over the back door. Shes a little dirty in the pics. need to figure out back door before i start building her up. thanks again for any help.

As far as I can tell, there is no Back Door ECU in the '98. There is just a Power Window Relay--almost everything else is wired to the Integration relay in the front, which does not use a multiplex bus.The only things not controlled by the Back Door ECU are:

- the lock motor. You should be able to find a blue-white and a black-yellow in both harnesses and marry those. This will only give you non-wireless function. Wireless will be dead for ALL doors because the wireless receiver is built in to the Back Door ECU on the '99 and there is just no way around that.

-Defrost. Marry two solid black wires and two white-blacks and that should work.

-rear dome light. Marry the red-white from the '98 to the light green-red wire on the '99 and that should work.



You should be able to power the window so that you can work it from the key switch. Connect the solid blue on the '99 to the solid green on the '98. That should give you key control of the window.(plus the white-black marriage above for ground.)

Wireless door function, and washer/wiper all run through the Back Door ECU in the '99 and control is over the multiplex bus. Washer and wiper would only work if you gin up switches to ground from scratch. If you apply ground to the pink wire in the '98 you will get wiper action and ground to the light green wire will give you washer action (assuming you have done the blue to green marriage above for power.). But there is nothing to marry those grounds to in the '99 unless you run wires all the way to the front and connect to the stalk wiring at the panel by driver's knee or just make dash switches to ground. Sorry for the bad news on that. Let me know if you want details on connecting to the stalk and I'll figure that out.

I think these "marriages" will work, but I may have missed something. Let me know what works and what doesn't and I'll look again. Just quote me and I'll come back to this thread.

I have no idea other than a junkyard for scoring ECU and wiring you need. Dealer cost is outrageous.

http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~relay~assy~power~window~no~1~85930-35060.html

Here is one on eBay for $30: http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-TOYOTA-4-RUNNER-LIFT-GATE-RELAY-MODULE-85930-35060-108434-/370879594375

But even with the module, wiring that up without the harness would be a major beyotch. There are two harnesses:

http://www.toyotapart.com/82184-35120.html

http://www.toyomotorparts.com/parts/toyota-82185-35070_wire-back-door-no.html

That's $140 + $216 = $356 I don't see anybody offering those used. Good luck and please post back what you do.

 

[HAIGHT4X4]

As far as I can tell, there is no Back Door ECU in the '98. There is just a Power Window Relay--almost everything else is wired to the Integration relay in the front, which does not use a multiplex bus.The only things not controlled by the Back Door ECU are:

- the lock motor. You should be able to find a blue-white and a black-yellow in both harnesses and marry those. This will only give you non-wireless function. Wireless will be dead for ALL doors because the wireless receiver is built in to the Back Door ECU on the '99 and there is just no way around that.

-Defrost. Marry two solid black wires and two white-blacks and that should work.

-rear dome light. Marry the red-white from the '98 to the light green-red wire on the '99 and that should work.



You should be able to power the window so that you can work it from the key switch. Connect the solid blue on the '99 to the solid green on the '98. That should give you key control of the window.(plus the white-black marriage above for ground.)

Wireless door function, and washer/wiper all run through the Back Door ECU in the '99 and control is over the multiplex bus. Washer and wiper would only work if you gin up switches to ground from scratch. If you apply ground to the pink wire in the '98 you will get wiper action and ground to the light green wire will give you washer action (assuming you have done the blue to green marriage above for power.). But there is nothing to marry those grounds to in the '99 unless you run wires all the way to the front and connect to the stalk wiring at the panel by driver's knee or just make dash switches to ground. Sorry for the bad news on that. Let me know if you want details on connecting to the stalk and I'll figure that out.

I think these "marriages" will work, but I may have missed something. Let me know what works and what doesn't and I'll look again. Just quote me and I'll come back to this thread.

I have no idea other than a junkyard for scoring ECU and wiring you need. Dealer cost is outrageous.

85930-35060 - Genuine Toyota RELAY ASSY, POWER WINDOW

Here is one on eBay for $30: 01 Toyota 4 Runner Lift Gate Relay Module 85930 35060 108434 | eBay

But even with the module, wiring that up without the harness would be a major beyotch. There are two harnesses:

Toyota - WIRE, BACK DOOR, NO. Part Number: 82184-35120

82185-35070 - Toyota WIRE, BACK DOOR, NO.

That's $140 + $216 = $356 I don't see anybody offering those used. Good luck and please post back what you do.

Iv thought long and hard about this and iv come to the conclusion i don't want to do a hack job and just wire up a few things. So that being said i found a complete wiring kit for back door for 55$. But its missing the ECU. hes looking for another ECU for a 99 for me. I also found a complete door from a 2002 insurance write off. Wondering if the wiring will match up to the 99? once again thanks for all the help. C.

 

[TheDurk]

Iv thought long and hard about this and iv come to the conclusion i don't want to do a hack job and just wire up a few things. So that being said i found a complete wiring kit for back door for 55$. But its missing the ECU. hes looking for another ECU for a 99 for me. I also found a complete door from a 2002 insurance write off. Wondering if the wiring will match up to the 99? once again thanks for all the help. C.

Ahh, those two EWD's I have. I'll get back to you. I think you're making a wise decision, whether you keep it or sell it. What happened to the old '99 door internals, just out of curiosity?

EDIT:

You're golden. I compared the EWD's for Wireless Door Lock, Door Lock Control, Interior Illumination, Power Window(Rear), Wiper and Washer, and Rear Defogger and Mirror Heater and they are absolutely identical between '99 and '02, down to pin numbers and wire colors.

The only thing that concerns me is the Back-door ECU for '99-'00 and '01-'02 are different p/n's and I have no idea how or why. The plugs are identical between the two. So I think the '02 door with a 85930-35060 Back Door ECU from an '00 or '99 would be ideal. Should be Plug and Play. You could try leaving the '02 ECU in the door and see if it works if you have it. They may have just changed suppliers or the way it was built but leaving it functionally the same. If you have the '02 ECU, I'd try it. The keyfobs are the same, so those should work.

85930-35060 W(KEY LESS ENTRY) (07/1998 - 03/2001)
85930-35061 W(KEY LESS ENTRY) (04/2001 - )

 

[HAIGHT4X4]

Ahh, those two EWD's I have. I'll get back to you. I think you're making a wise decision, whether you keep it or sell it. What happened to the old '99 door internals, just out of curiousity?

Bought it as a parts truck. was to clean underneath to strip it. Trying to build it up. The 98 has an E-locker that I'm going to swap over soon. Ill try and post some pics. Need to replace back door front grill and power steering line<-- :ybrick:
Will update with pics. Cheers.

Edit. Is there any way to tell its from a 2002? If i get there and its not on the truck what can i look for to prove its from that year. i don't have the 99 harness to compare. anyone nice enough to snap a pic of there 99 rear hatch harness so i can compare?