Shaking While Braking

XCG3

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Hey guys in need some help with a diagnosis. So my car is getting a crazy shake while braking. I have no problem while accelerating or coasting. The harder i break the more violent it gets, and a lot of weight makes it kind of sketchy. There is nothing noticeable under 30 mph. I recently had my tires rebalanced with no real help. Anyone have a clue??
 
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Buy new rotors and pads, i did Wagner high end pads and rotors with lifetime warrenty from advance auto, was like $135 for everything, no more violent shake.
 
Often this is the brake rotors, and is pretty common. On my commute I was coming down from 8900 feet to 6700 feet in maybe 8 miles. Once I turned off overdrive to have the engine do part of the work, and spread out my braking so they had time to cool off, it would be mostly ok.

Many people say the Brembo rotors fix this, which you can get on Amazon among others. I ended up picking mine up at Auto Zone I think, getting generics. They were the same price as PepBoys and Oreily, but with a 2 year warranty instead of a 1 year.

But the 4runner (both my 98 and 92) have metal brake lines, so you have to disconnect the calipers instead of just moving them out of the way to remove the rotors. And that means you need to bleed the brakes. Because of this I've yet to do this, and may instead just go somewhere with my rotors and let them do it. It sounds like bleeding them isn't too difficult with 2 people, but it's an extra thing to learn and I don't normally have another willing participant.

Good luck. Looking at my records the rotors were replaced only 15-20k ago on my 98. There's many ways for them to get warped (overtightening, overheating), but with the hills and snow we have around here it was probably just overheating and then a splash of snow to quench them and warp them.

Aaron
 
Hey guys in need some help with a diagnosis. So my car is getting a crazy shake while braking. I have no problem while accelerating or coasting. The harder i break the more violent it gets, and a lot of weight makes it kind of sketchy. There is nothing noticeable under 30 mph. I recently had my tires rebalanced with no real help. Anyone have a clue??

I had the same exact problem. I had warped front rotars. i got them resurfaced and the feel great now. if you have really worn rotars you may as well just get new ones. if not get them resurfaced.
 
I think every 4Runner owner has had this at least once. My favourite symptom is when the dashboard starts jumping up and down when your coming done a long hill. If you have the cash to replace your rotors, I would recommend that over having them turned. Resurfacing (turning) the rotors will make them thinner, which will make the problem return faster. The extreme solution is to replace the rotors and calipers with those from a Tundra.
 
I think every 4Runner owner has had this at least once. My favourite symptom is when the dashboard starts jumping up and down when your coming done a long hill.

On the same mountain, with the same snow, I've never had the problem with my 92 4runner. I haven't replaced the rotors on it, so I know they have at least 50k on them, with the last 30k being in these adverse conditions. But it was also a manual, so going to work dropping from 8900 feet down to 4500 feet, I could mostly just leave it in 5th and let the engine keep it in the 50-60mph range, just braking for the couple of hardest corners.

When I first hit the issue with my 98, my google search showed that it was primarily an issue with the Gen 3's. I think some Gen 2's were hitting it too, but it wasn't anywhere as common.
 
Often this is the brake rotors, and is pretty common. On my commute I was coming down from 8900 feet to 6700 feet in maybe 8 miles. Once I turned off overdrive to have the engine do part of the work, and spread out my braking so they had time to cool off, it would be mostly ok.

Many people say the Brembo rotors fix this, which you can get on Amazon among others. I ended up picking mine up at Auto Zone I think, getting generics. They were the same price as PepBoys and Oreily, but with a 2 year warranty instead of a 1 year.

But the 4runner (both my 98 and 92) have metal brake lines, so you have to disconnect the calipers instead of just moving them out of the way to remove the rotors. And that means you need to bleed the brakes. Because of this I've yet to do this, and may instead just go somewhere with my rotors and let them do it. It sounds like bleeding them isn't too difficult with 2 people, but it's an extra thing to learn and I don't normally have another willing participant.

Good luck. Looking at my records the rotors were replaced only 15-20k ago on my 98. There's many ways for them to get warped (overtightening, overheating), but with the hills and snow we have around here it was probably just overheating and then a splash of snow to quench them and warp them.

Aaron

Don't worry about the metal lines you can still change pads and rotors leaving them hooked up so you don't have to bleed.
Just be careful not to introduce any new bends in the line but slight bends are not going to do much.
I did it where I took the caliper off with te lines still attached and got some rope to hang up the caliper to the upper control arm just high enough so I can slip a new rotor on.
 
The first time I replaced the rotors with Brembos- not slotted, not drilled. That fix didn't last long so I waited and shook and saved some dough and the second time I went 05 Tundra brakes. Almost 2 years old and working GREAT!
96 4Runner 5speed 4x, tow rarely.



Those metal lines coming out of the caliper are short and connect to flexible hose so like awpsome says no worries there if you aren't changing calipers. Changing the brake fluid every once in awhile is a good thing, though.
 
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Those metal lines coming out of the caliper are short and connect to flexible hose so like awpsome says no worries there if you aren't changing calipers. Changing the brake fluid every once in awhile is a good thing, though.

Thanks guys

I have the PDFs from the 02 factory service manual and the actual 92 FSM. Those, plus the online steps I found all talked about disconnecting the lines and bleeding the brakes.

But I'll be happy to take another look at it and give it a try, once I get the 98 starting again.....


grumble grumble
 
Trace the hard line from the caliper to the softline to the body, disconnect any holding brackets along the way (10mm bolts, one of them on the knuckle) . You can get extra slack that way, and no need to bend anything or disconnect hard line from caliper.

I had to do this couple of times even after the Tundra mod. Warped first pair from Advance Auto (returned), next Brembo pair. Got angry and bought the cheapest I can find (OP Parts rotors, around $65 shipped), figured might as well spend least amount if I have change it all the time (resurfacing a pair cost over $30 around here), and it's been good ever since (over 30k miles). And now have Brembo turned as spare.
 
Hey guys in need some help with a diagnosis. So my car is getting a crazy shake while braking. I have no problem while accelerating or coasting. The harder i break the more violent it gets, and a lot of weight makes it kind of sketchy. There is nothing noticeable under 30 mph. I recently had my tires rebalanced with no real help. Anyone have a clue??

I can't believe nobody has mentioned this, do the Tundra brake upgrade. I just did it and love the peace of mind.
 
Warped rotors still happen on cars with appropriately rated brakes, the way you drive can greatly affect the life of the rotor. But as I said earlier I bought rotors with a lifetime warrenty, if they start warping I take them off and bring them back, it's that easy takes all of 20 minutes a side...
 
Improper bedding can cause shake too as uneven pad deposits can develop a shake over a short amount of time. After overheating my 231mm Tundra upgraded brakes towing a boat down a hill (rookie mistake), I had to re-bed the system and flush the lines because I had boiled all the fluid and a slight shake began to develop. after bedding in again, shake was gone. Nothing is invincible, but taking necessary precautions and following break in procedures can make a world of difference.

If I'm able to fade high performance Stoptech pads and boil DOT 4 brake fluid without causing warping during bedding with plumes of smoke coming out, I find it hard to believe everyone is simply warping their rotors driving in the city and whatnot. The only time I reach these limits is bedding in or forgetting to downshift while towing a boat.

JohnsD90 has a good point about the lifetime warranty deal by buying local. This comes in handy as 3rd gen 4runners seem to develop brake shake so easily - even after following proper protocols.
 
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I just replaced our front rotors with Brembo's for $53 each delivered from importrp.com

Front - Brembo OE Brake Rotor :: Brake Rotors :: Brakes :: Import Replacement Parts.

They were delivered in 2 days. I also replaced the pads with Performance Friction Carbon Metallic for $33 from autopartstomorrow.com

0436.20 0436.20 - $32.42 | Auto Parts Tomorrow

They ship next day air for free for orders over $50. I purchased a set of AC/Delco brake shoes to bring the order over $50 for free shipping.

I bedded the pads, and the brakes have been smooth as glass for a couple of months now.

I have a 2000 Tundra which ate a set of rotors yearly up until I upgraded to the 2004 brakes a couple of years ago. So far so good, knock on wood. I wish I would have known that I would purchase a 2002 4runner a year later, I would have kept the cores for an upgrade to the 4runner.

We live in the mountains, which is rough on brakes to start with. I think that people who live on fairly flat land should be able to avoid the warped rotor syndrome by keeping their rear brakes adjusted manually. The auto adjuster is only good in theory on Toyota Trucks.
 
Trace the hard line from the caliper to the softline to the body, disconnect any holding brackets along the way (10mm bolts, one of them on the knuckle) . You can get extra slack that way, and no need to bend anything or disconnect hard line from caliper.

If you remove the clip where the metal brake line attaches to the frame, you can get enough play to move the caliper out of the way and tie it up to replace the rotor. It can be a ***** to reinstall the clip by yourself; sometimes you need 3 hands.
 

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