Shaking While Braking
- Thread starter XCG3
- Start date
Does it shake the steering wheel?I have the same violent shaking...now with fairly new rotors(15k)....crazy thing is...it comes and goes! It hasn’t done it in months...now the violent braking shaking is back! Any one else have their problem go away then come back?*
Jidaran
New member
I have the same issue. It's likely due to deposits the brake pad leaves on the rotor. When you come to a hard stop and keep your foot on the brake afterwards (like most of us do) some of the super heated pad adheres to that place on the rotor, leaving a deposit. These uneven deposits can cause shaking similar to rotor warp.
There's a chance that different pads would help, or you could do the Tundra Brake upgrade - heavier / larger rotors mean less heating and less deposits.
The cheap / easy solution is to trying and avoid leaving deposits in the first place and occasionally rebed the brakes. If you have to come to stop from high speed, try and ease off the brake at the end, or even put it in park once you're at a full stop, that will let your pads and rotors cool while not in contact, which means less deposits. To rebed, find an quiet road where you can get up to a good speed. Come to a hard stop (which will heat the deposits and smear them evenly around the rotor) but let off the brake at the last second before you stop moving. Then repeat a few times.
There's a chance that different pads would help, or you could do the Tundra Brake upgrade - heavier / larger rotors mean less heating and less deposits.
The cheap / easy solution is to trying and avoid leaving deposits in the first place and occasionally rebed the brakes. If you have to come to stop from high speed, try and ease off the brake at the end, or even put it in park once you're at a full stop, that will let your pads and rotors cool while not in contact, which means less deposits. To rebed, find an quiet road where you can get up to a good speed. Come to a hard stop (which will heat the deposits and smear them evenly around the rotor) but let off the brake at the last second before you stop moving. Then repeat a few times.
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br-17, #2, of the service manual. cut some 1" wooded brake pad plates or severely used brake pads. keep rotor in place. so that it doesn't completely pop out.
press the brake pedal til the piston make contact with the pads. peel back or remove the cylinder boots. check for crud build up. clean crud.
Optional: put sil-glyde inside the piston boots.
I've never seen a warped rotor or crap build up on rotors, and a brake job is more than a pad replace. i also regretted turning in my factory calipers because what you get are calipers that were banged and hammered, and rusted, then clear-coated. Rebuild your own calipers, kits are available.
press the brake pedal til the piston make contact with the pads. peel back or remove the cylinder boots. check for crud build up. clean crud.
Optional: put sil-glyde inside the piston boots.
I've never seen a warped rotor or crap build up on rotors, and a brake job is more than a pad replace. i also regretted turning in my factory calipers because what you get are calipers that were banged and hammered, and rusted, then clear-coated. Rebuild your own calipers, kits are available.
