She's cranking slowly!

alia176

Senior Member
My daughter has a '97 SR5 with the 3.4 and we're noticing a slower cranking than usual. Things that have been checked out so far:

- battery is one year old and checked out by Interstate - passed
- charging system is putting out 13.8 vdc - checked out my Orielly's fancy meter thing.
- starter - I replaced the contacts yesterday. Found out that the PO replaced with a Carquest starter, not a big deal.

More background info on her 170xxx miles 4runner. Her engine has what I think an usually long cranking time before starting. This has been a consistent thing, even with a brand new battery. Other 3rd gens start faster from what I've seen.
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EDITED for clarity: the engine is cranking slower than two weeks ago. It still takes the same # of cranks to start the engine but now, a tad slower.
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One possibility is that the fuel injector(s) may not be holding back the fuel pressure so one or couple of them are slowly bleeding down over night.

Another possibility is that perhaps I should do the "three amigo" wiring upgrade so that the starter does in fact receive full battery voltage.

Thanks for the insight. Some photos/vids from our projects this past weekend.

Shared album - A. Ali - Google Photos

EDITED for clarity: the engine is cranking slower than two weeks ago. It still takes the same # of cranks to start the engine but now, a tad slower.
 
Last edited:
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My daughter has a '97 SR5 with the 3.4 and we're noticing a slower cranking than usual. Things that have been checked out so far:

- battery is one year old and checked out by Interstate - passed
- charging system is putting out 13.8 vdc - checked out my Orielly's fancy meter thing.
- starter - I replaced the contacts yesterday. Found out that the PO replaced with a Carquest starter, not a big deal.

More background info on her 170xxx miles 4runner. Her engine has what I think an usually long cranking time before starting . This has been a consistent thing, even with a brand new battery. Other 3rd gens start faster from what I've seen.

One possibility is that the fuel injector(s) may not be holding back the fuel pressure so one or couple of them are slowly bleeding down over night.

Another possibility is that perhaps I should do the "three amigo" wiring upgrade so that the starter does in fact receive full battery voltage.

Thanks for the insight. Some photos/vids from our projects this past weekend.

Shared album - A. Ali - Google Photos

So is it the cranking speed itself or how long it takes to start? 3rd gen 4Runners do not prime the fuel pump in key on. The fuel pump only starts working once the ecm sees engine rpm while starting so it can take 2-3 seconds of engine cranking before the engine runs.
 
You'd end up with fuel in oil if the injectors leaked alot and a big puff of white smoke starting up.

Could be many things. MAF and IAC/intake cleaned? Fuel pump's anti-syphon valve maybe letting fuel drain back into tank, causing a little longer startup.
 
Have you checked the battery voltage during cranking? Also do you have an amp meter so you can see how many amps are being pulled when you start?
 
If it's taking many cranks or turns over more than 3 times, that's a known little quirk that some lucky engines have. Annoying but harmless.

It's not the starter as when the starter contacts fail after getting worn down the engine doesn't crank at all, you turn the key and it's complete silence except for a faint 'click'.

Hate to say it but almost every time the engine starts turning over very slowly it's the battery either undercharged or failing. Doing the wiring upgrade won't make a difference unless you've messed with the wiring lately. One thing you could try is disconnecting the ground from the battery terminal to the firewall and the positive and negative terminal and clean it really good with a degreaser. Any grime or debris will weaken the current flowing through.
 
It could be also be the fuel pump going out. Mine did that for a while until it died. It's a hundred bucks from amazon (950-0100). I got the kit with the sock. Fuel pump test should show 2-3 Ohms but it's not a good indicator of the functionality of the pump. Mine was within spec until it failed.
 
Have you checked the battery voltage during cranking? Also do you have an amp meter so you can see how many amps are being pulled when you start?

You probably need a clamp over amp meter as those starters draw amperage so you cant measure that simple amp meter as most of those are 10 amp to 30 amp max.

I will check it but I am guessing that starter pulling over 100 -200 amps when cranking.
 
Use a terminal brush to clean your battery posts and cable ends. Everyone should have one in their toolbox.

I also put a conductive grease on the posts after cleaning them to help prevent corrosion.


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Thank you all for the ideas.

I edited my first post to say that the cranking is slower than two weeks ago. Still take the same # of cranks to start the engine.

Forgot to mention that I added a second battery booster pack (lithium ion) and the cranking didn't speed up any. I am doubtful if the battery pack kicked in since the onboard battery voltage was 12.7 at the time.


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Good idea on checking the anti-siphon valve, could be mildly leaking due to age.

agreed, on leaky injector theory - not happening here.

Great idea on the current clamp to check the draw. I have a DC current clamp so I'll check the amps during starting and pull the EFI fuse so that it doesn't start. This is with the current onboard battery

I'll also do the same as above using a jump from a second car that's running. I want to see if she cranks any faster and also to check the current draw.

She returns to my house next coming monday and I'll use this thread as a list.

Part of me thinks it's the one year old Interstate battery because I was watching the interstate guy put his DVM on the bat terms and she went down as low as 10.7vdc during engine cranking, which the guy says "it's normal". So, he didn't want to warranty it out.

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Thanks again.
 
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10.7v in my mind is a good number. Below 9v is bad.

It’s a reman. If it has a lifetime warrenty use it till it dies and replace it or pull it apart and grease everything.


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Take it by any O'apazone and have battery checked with a load tester, not a DVM. Second opinion an all . . .
 
It’s been my experience that rebuilds only replace what is broken.

They may never have greased the bendix or replaced the bearings/bushings. Just slapped a cheep contact kit and put it back on the shelf.


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It’s been my experience that rebuilds only replace what is broken.

They may never have greased the bendix or replaced the bearings/bushings. Just slapped a cheep contact kit and put it back on the shelf.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, that's a good possibility since the PO replaced it with a Carquest unit.
 
Take it by any O'apazone and have battery checked with a load tester, not a DVM. Second opinion an all . . .


Yeah, not a bad idea. Orielleys' auto did it with their load tester gizmo and more than like AutoZone will have the same thing but it's always good to have second opinion.

I have a carbon pile load tester at home and the battery checked out fine.
 

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