Shimmy when braking (not rotors)

[xcmtb83]

I need some help diagnosing a shimmy that I experience quite heavily while braking down to 40mph. The shimmy is basically only happening in the 40+mph range while braking. It isn't the rotors because I don't feel it in the brake pedal, instead the steering wheel wobbles and anything loose in the glove box/dash rattles. So far I have checked the upper control arm bolts, replaced the steering rack bushings and installed the updated yoke/guide. For those unfamiliar with the newer version it is basically replaces the roller guide with an anti-friction coated u-shaped insert. I have the guide just about as tight as I feel comfortable taking it, basically bottomed out then probably about a 1/3 turn back. I don't want to throw a bunch of new TRE components at it if they are not the problem.

If my rack was just plain worn out would these be the symptoms?

Vehicle is 1996 T4R with about 155k mi.

Thanks for any input!

 

[nevada]

that is a brake issue.
the rotors need resurfaced or replaced.

 

[PitbullRescuer]

Sounds like a rotor issue to me too. How long have the brakes been on it? Are they the stock brakes or have you done the Tundra upgrade?

 

[Skidmarcx]

Could be rear drums out of round... Just because you don't feel it in the pedal doesn't mean the front rotors aren't warped

 

[xcmtb83]

I bought the vehicle about 8k miles ago.

I highly doubt it has had the Tundra upgrade.

No idea on age of pads and rotors.

I hope I am wrong and many of you are right as rotors and pads would be an easy fix.

This site is great, literally within minutes many are offering their help.

 

[chadsy]

Mine did the same thing when I found out the Rotors were warped. If you don't have the tundra upgrade I recommend you go to Autozone and get their duralast gold brakes. They carry a 2 yr warranty so if they start to warp again you can trade them in no questions asked.

 

[xcmtb83]

Not to derail the thread but do all Tundra conversions use the same components i.e. size of rotors etc.? I only ask because the only 4Runner that I have ever driven with the upgrade had very little brake modulation which made them hard to get used to. What I mean is the brakes reminded me of a light switch, either off or on! I would prefer more modulation as I fear brakes that sensitive could get annoying and even dangerous on ice and snow as it would be hard to just lean into them for light braking. I guess what I am trying to say is I would entertain the idea of the Tundra upgrade if there was maybe a medium size rotor for a mild upgrade if it would yield more modulation.

 

[dapslappy]

just do it

Not to derail the thread but do all Tundra conversions use the same components i.e. size of rotors etc.? I only ask because the only 4Runner that I have ever driven with the upgrade had very little brake modulation which made them hard to get used to. What I mean is the brakes reminded me of a light switch, either off or on! I would prefer more modulation as I fear brakes that sensitive could get annoying and even dangerous on ice and snow as it would be hard to just lean into them for light braking. I guess what I am trying to say is I would entertain the idea of the Tundra upgrade if there was maybe a medium size rotor for a mild upgrade if it would yield more modulation.

I sourced Sequoia calipers (13WL) with pads from a local toyota junk yard. $100 for both. OEM rotors ordered online. Scuffed pads with red garnet sand paper (no oxides). Followed BFAD tutorial. Great result. I think they work so well because I followed this bed in procedure for pads Brake Bedding (For Healthy Brakes).
good tutorial with video: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/152500-speedys-13wl-231mm-brake-upgrade.html
get http://www.speedbleeder.com. flush brake fluid.
Feel the power...

 

[krenaud33]

I am going to say its the rotors.

I had the same thing happening with my 4Runner until I replaced the rotors and pads. Problem is gone. FWIW I went with Brembo rotors and OEM pads.

 

[ICD]

Just a FYI.

I had the wobble and did the 231 upgrade and still have it now just not as much. I bought everything new.
Whether new rotors come warped from factory is debatable but I may take them and my rears in.

 

[Crashnrondo]

Try loving the driveshaft. Sounds stupid but I have no play on the U joints but I get a warped disk feeling if I go more than 5000 miles between lube jobs on my driveline.

 

[eightybaby]

You totally need rotors! I have the same issue the steering wheel is where I feel most of the problems & I have heat cracks in the driver side rotor. You might just check, sometimes you can see them without having to remove the wheel.
Good luck