shinyblackdeer
New member
E-Locker is in (plus, another retrofit e-locker wiring diagram)
We've been AWOL for awhile, but not without progress! I had mentioned we found a complete e-locker rear end from a 97 (with 4.30 gears). We then found a front diff with 4.30 gears out of another 97 (thanks to Luke Graham from Frontier 4x4. Jeff spent hours cleaning and refurbishing both. He spent a Saturday swapping the front and a Sunday swapping the rear. Now it's complete and we have a locking rear diff. Awesome!
There are so many write-ups about retrofit e-locker wiring, one more can't hurt, right?
Our 98 SR5 V6 w/ automatic transmission, A.D.D., and w/o 2-4 select switch was not pre-wired for an e-locker. I chose to go the factory route by sourcing the factory 4WD ECU, RR diff lock control switch and rear diff lock wiring harness. For wiring, I used 4-conductor trailer wire plus 2-conductor speaker wire. I also purchased single repair wire terminals from Toyota in order to light both the RR diff lock control switch and the RR diff lock indicator light in the instrument gauge cluster. You can download my wiring diagram here. Note that I have disabled the factory safety features by grounding the SPD and 4WD wires. Here are some key photos that supplement my wiring diagram:
In order to light the factory RR diff lock control switch, I purchased (2) repair wire terminals (82998-12170) and installed them into pins 3 & 4 of the connector as shown. Pin 3 goes to ground, pin 4 goes to a 10AMP fuse tap (see my wiring diagram).
You have to gently pull apart the connector in order to insert the new terminals:
Shown from the back of the connector:
In order to light the RR diff lock indicator on the dash, I purchased (1) repair wire terminal (82998-24180) and installed it into the connector behind the instrument gauge cluster as shown here (looking at the back, far left brown connector). It literally took me 1.5 hours to figure out how to unlock that connector to insert the terminal. You have to separate the inner white housing from the brown connector by depressing small white tabs on both ends of the connector:
Here's a photo tracing the path from the bulb to the pin (I used a new #74 3 SMD red LED wide angle wedge base bulb):
Here shows the 4WD ECU mounted in its factory location (behind driver's side kick panel) and the common ground point.
Here shows the location of the fuse taps used to light the RR diff lock control switch and the RR diff lock indicator light:
Since I already had amp/sub wires running along the driver's side, I chose to route the wires connecting the 4WD ECU and the e-locker wire harness through the center (under the center console). Here shows my spliced wire bundle coming from the front to the back (beneath rear passenger seat on driver's side):
And here shows everything nice and clean:
And the final result:
Thanks to the many online write-ups for help and inspiration, most notably Retrofit Electric Locker and [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION]'s awesome wiring diagram, which helped me the most.
We've been AWOL for awhile, but not without progress! I had mentioned we found a complete e-locker rear end from a 97 (with 4.30 gears). We then found a front diff with 4.30 gears out of another 97 (thanks to Luke Graham from Frontier 4x4. Jeff spent hours cleaning and refurbishing both. He spent a Saturday swapping the front and a Sunday swapping the rear. Now it's complete and we have a locking rear diff. Awesome!
There are so many write-ups about retrofit e-locker wiring, one more can't hurt, right?
Our 98 SR5 V6 w/ automatic transmission, A.D.D., and w/o 2-4 select switch was not pre-wired for an e-locker. I chose to go the factory route by sourcing the factory 4WD ECU, RR diff lock control switch and rear diff lock wiring harness. For wiring, I used 4-conductor trailer wire plus 2-conductor speaker wire. I also purchased single repair wire terminals from Toyota in order to light both the RR diff lock control switch and the RR diff lock indicator light in the instrument gauge cluster. You can download my wiring diagram here. Note that I have disabled the factory safety features by grounding the SPD and 4WD wires. Here are some key photos that supplement my wiring diagram:
In order to light the factory RR diff lock control switch, I purchased (2) repair wire terminals (82998-12170) and installed them into pins 3 & 4 of the connector as shown. Pin 3 goes to ground, pin 4 goes to a 10AMP fuse tap (see my wiring diagram).
You have to gently pull apart the connector in order to insert the new terminals:
Shown from the back of the connector:
In order to light the RR diff lock indicator on the dash, I purchased (1) repair wire terminal (82998-24180) and installed it into the connector behind the instrument gauge cluster as shown here (looking at the back, far left brown connector). It literally took me 1.5 hours to figure out how to unlock that connector to insert the terminal. You have to separate the inner white housing from the brown connector by depressing small white tabs on both ends of the connector:
Here's a photo tracing the path from the bulb to the pin (I used a new #74 3 SMD red LED wide angle wedge base bulb):
Here shows the 4WD ECU mounted in its factory location (behind driver's side kick panel) and the common ground point.
Here shows the location of the fuse taps used to light the RR diff lock control switch and the RR diff lock indicator light:
Since I already had amp/sub wires running along the driver's side, I chose to route the wires connecting the 4WD ECU and the e-locker wire harness through the center (under the center console). Here shows my spliced wire bundle coming from the front to the back (beneath rear passenger seat on driver's side):
And here shows everything nice and clean:
And the final result:
Thanks to the many online write-ups for help and inspiration, most notably Retrofit Electric Locker and [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION]'s awesome wiring diagram, which helped me the most.
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