Shocks / struts and ball joints for dummies…

[zguy1]

I know there is a lot of information here for what types of suspension upgrades are possible. My questions are much more simpler than that or at least I think they are.

My truck has almost 300k miles. Had it for about 95k miles. I never did anything with the suspension since I have owned it.

Here is what I think I am seeing while driving. It feels like the truck moves around a bit more on the highway over bumps and specifically dips in the highway.

I know from searching here, there are answers anywhere from shocks “could last indefinitely” to “they should be replaced every 100k miles or so.


So in short, I am trying to answer these two questions.

1) is there a simple way to know if replacing shocks are needed? My truck doesn’t appear to sag so I don’t think there is a spring issue.

2) How do you know if ball joints are bad? I have no vibrations at any speeds. With the wheels off the group there is no play at 12 and 6 or at 9 and 3. Not sure if that is a valid check for worn ball joints on a truck. That used to be all I needed to do on a passenger car.

Thanks!

 

[Syr4RinNC]

Sounds more like worn out struts/ shocks to me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPh75zckPWE&t=117s

As you did - thats the basic ball joint test, but I found its really tough to do. Unfortunately, I often have to rely on the mechanics assessment unless theres an obvious tear or clunk.

If you go a new shock route - theyll have to test your ball joints as part of alignment

 

[zguy1]

Thanks. I would be doing the work myself if need be. I'll double check to see if they are leaking when I do my fuel sending unit. I'm hoping I get a chance to do that this week.

Btw, regarding an alignment. I'm under the impression that an alignment is not needed on our trucks since it is not a MacPherson style strut. Maybe I am wrong on that though.

 

[bob3dsf]

Btw, regarding an alignment. I'm under the impression that an alignment is not needed on our trucks since it is not a MacPherson style strut. Maybe I am wrong on that though.

Incorrect. Regardless of IFS type, front alignment is needed periodically.

There is no alignment for the rear. If your rear axle is out of alignment it's due to a manufacturing defect or, more likely, damage from an impact.

Some sources of movement other than worn shocks are:
-Worn control arm bushings
-worn ball joints
-worn tie rod ends (inner, outer, or both)
-worn sway bar bushings (I think you'll notice this as noise if everything else is ok).
- worn wheel bearing

To check our ball joints, you have to unload the joints off the suspension. Jack up the wheel you're checking by the lower control arm. Once the tire is off the ground a little, you can use a pry bar and lift up from the bottom of the tire. If it moves up and down slightly and/or clunks, then you have a worn ball joint.

To check for a bad wheel bearing, grab the tire at the 12:00 and 6:00 positions and try to move it by pushing/pulling. If it moves or makes clunking noises then the wheel bearing has play.

From this position you can also jiggle the tire by grabbing at the 3:00 and 9:00 positions to check for play in the tire rod ends. If you get movement before the steering wheel turns, then the tie rod end is worn.

The reason you jack/support the wheel at the LCA is because when its supported at the frame with a jack stand (wheel hanging/drooping), the suspension is pushing down against the ball joints so they will feel tight even if they are worn (unless the are really really worn). See this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SkHeDQomX0k

 

[zguy1]

Incorrect. Regardless of IFS type, front alignment is needed periodically.

There is no alignment for the rear. If your rear axle is out of alignment it's due to a manufacturing defect or, more likely, damage from an impact.

Some sources of movement other than worn shocks are:
-Worn control arm bushings
-worn ball joints
-worn tie rod ends (inner, outer, or both)
-worn sway bar bushings (I think you'll notice this as noise if everything else is ok).
- worn wheel bearing

To check our ball joints, you have to unload the joints off the suspension. Jack up the wheel you're checking by the lower control arm. Once the tire is off the ground a little, you can use a pry bar and lift up from the bottom of the tire. If it moves up and down slightly and/or clunks, then you have a worn ball joint.

To check for a bad wheel bearing, grab the tire at the 12:00 and 6:00 positions and try to move it by pushing/pulling. If it moves or makes clunking noises then the wheel bearing has play.

From this position you can also jiggle the tire by grabbing at the 3:00 and 9:00 positions to check for play in the tire rod ends. If you get movement before the steering wheel turns, then the tie rod end is worn.

The reason you jack/support the wheel at the LCA is because when its supported at the frame with a jack stand (wheel hanging/drooping), the suspension is pushing down against the ball joints so they will feel tight even if they are worn (unless the are really really worn). See this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SkHeDQomX0k

Thanks for the post. I learned something new about checking the ball joints. My bearings are fine. No play in any direction with the truck lifted. One of the wheel bearings were replaced about a year ago.