ShooterMcGavin
New member
Let me know what solves your issue when you find it. I have replaced my ITREs, OTREs, and LBJs, so it's not that. It could be a brake problem or a bushing problem for me.
Shooter's Build Thread
- Thread starter ShooterMcGavin
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JayRolla
New member
I still have a pull also. My next action is lower control arm bushings. Its the last thing.
Done so far
Tundra front calipers, rotors, rear brakes and brake lines.
LR SPC UCA's
ITRE's, OTRE's, Lower ball joints
New Rack and Pinion steering rack w/Poly bushings
Sway bar front and rear Poly bushings
Only thing left are those pesky lower control arm bushings. I found a guy with out same issue and did everything like I did and it ended up being the bushings. After replaced solid braking.
ShooterMcGavin
New member
Fixed. I replaced the spark plugs and wires. Denso PK16TR11 plugs and the NGK TE66 wires. No hesitation from idle on up now, even under power. Still have a lot of work to get done.
That hesitation problem was weird. It came on pretty quickly and got really bad right away. There was no slow-lead-up. The old plugs were single ground. I haven't tested them for gap since I removed them, but it looks big.
ShooterMcGavin
New member
I have new parts to install 
I bought everything used, which is my goal for this rig (only for non-maintenance stuff). The rear bumper is slightly bent because it came off a truck that rolled. There is work to do, before I am ready to mount things. Rust needs to be brushed off and repainting needs to happen.
I bought everything used, which is my goal for this rig (only for non-maintenance stuff). The rear bumper is slightly bent because it came off a truck that rolled. There is work to do, before I am ready to mount things. Rust needs to be brushed off and repainting needs to happen.
ShooterMcGavin
New member
I have my doubts on whether this rear bumper is going to get installed. I am taking off the bolts for the factory tow hitch. Most of the bolts are just breaking off, with pieces stuck in the threads. On a few of the bolts, the nut that is tack-welded inside the frame rail is breaking and allowing the nut to just spin. There's only a couple bolts that came out clean. Any advise on how to secure the bumper to the frame rail, if I don't have good threads to screw into?
ShooterMcGavin
New member
In other news, I didn't want to start installing things last night, so I figured I would change the oil in my floor jack. I put it back together and now my jack doesn't work. It's always something.
Bandit Runner
Senior Member
I had the same problem when I built my custom rear bumper - many of the hitch bolts broke off. I ended up just drilling new holes through the bumper and top/bottom of the frame. I put (4 per side) 1/2" bolts through the bumper and entire frame. I also used large washers on the top of the frame to distribute the load and not crush the frame. Good luck.
ShooterMcGavin
New member
Thanks. So you mounted it with long bolts that sandwiched the frame, rather than having a nut inside the frame? I would like to avoid that, but... now that I think more about it, that is actually not a bad solution. Thinking about the forces needed for the bolt to withstand, side-loads mainly, a longer bolt going through the whole frame does not lead me to think it will compromise strength (compared to a short bolt through only the frame-bottom). Crushing the frame slightly would be my main concern, but I could even weld in plate reinforcement, or create my own plate washers, or do as you did with large washers.
*Edit: Did you use Grade 8 hardware, or something else more special than regular hardware store bolts?
Bandit Runner
Senior Member
Yes, grade 8 bolts, vertically through the entire frame. And I did weld some 3/16" thick angle iron to the top/sides of the frame to prevent crushing, in addition to the large washers. I feel it is plenty strong.
ShooterMcGavin
New member
I think I'm done working on this truck for a while. It's a piece of shit. Not only that, I can't get anything to work. I can't get the bolts off of the trailer hitch brackets and I'm killing myself cutting it off, getting covered in metal shavings. These new bumpers/sliders are not getting installed.
I was frustrated, so I took a break and did some maintenance on my floor jack. I figured I'd drain and refill the hydraulic fluid. Maybe I lost a part or something, but now my floor jack is junk. And, of course they don't offer the schematic online or replacement parts.
I was frustrated, so I took a break and did some maintenance on my floor jack. I figured I'd drain and refill the hydraulic fluid. Maybe I lost a part or something, but now my floor jack is junk. And, of course they don't offer the schematic online or replacement parts.
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JayRolla
New member
All simple everyday stuff when working on old ass SUVs. We all have been there done that. Just keep at it and you will be successful.
ShooterMcGavin
New member
Thanks guys. I expect an old truck to be a *****; I've been there and I can handle that part. I'm actually more pissed off about the floor jack. I did a lot of research online before working on my jack, and none of the write-ups or videos mentioned parts falling out of the drain plug. Well, I guess there were parts that come out.
I want to avoid welding the bumper on, but it is an option. I'd still need to get these bolts off to take the hitch bracket off. The cut off wheel I'm using kept biting in as I was cutting and bouncing all around the area. Maybe a hack saw would be better.
I want to avoid welding the bumper on, but it is an option. I'd still need to get these bolts off to take the hitch bracket off. The cut off wheel I'm using kept biting in as I was cutting and bouncing all around the area. Maybe a hack saw would be better.
NHRunner
New member
Its all just a lesson in patience.
Be careful with cutting wheel. My face had an uncomfortable encounter with a 4" grinder that kicked out of my hand while cutting an endlink off.
A full mask is a good investment, and it will keep sparks and steel shards off of your face/neck so you can be more comfortable while cutting while laying down. Also, use the side handle on the grinder so you can approach that bolt head with a firm grip. Use the smallest amount of pressure so you can cut as slow as possible, yet as fast as necessary. Youll get there.
JayRolla
New member
LOL, I had same crap happen. I use my welding mask now!
ShooterMcGavin
New member
Thanks. The only thing I have available to use is an electric drill with a cut-off wheel. It is really hard to control the movement of the disk, using a hand-held drill, even with my elbow braced on the rear tire. Each time the disk grabs, it flies out of the cut-slot. I tried to get a cutting disk for my air grinder but they had nothing that would fit it at Home Depot.
I agree, I'm not trying to apply too much pressure to cut fast. I have eye protection. Today, I can still feel the metal shards all over my arms (yes, I've showered
).
ShooterMcGavin
New member
I'm still frustrated about my non-working rear diff locker. I've tried to buy actuators from people, but nobody wants to sell the actuator alone, and I don't blame them.
ShooterMcGavin
New member
Progress update...
I mount my cell phone on the windshield and, since the cigarette lighter is low on the dash, I end up with the power wire and the audio input for the stereo strung across my heating controls and head unit. To fix the mess, and the wires that interfere with shifting, I wired up a power source inside the dash and ran the power wire up to a closer place to the cell phone. I also ran the audio input wire into the dash. Now, my cigarette lighter socket is freed up; with a USB power port, my passengers can charge their phones.
I mount my cell phone on the windshield and, since the cigarette lighter is low on the dash, I end up with the power wire and the audio input for the stereo strung across my heating controls and head unit. To fix the mess, and the wires that interfere with shifting, I wired up a power source inside the dash and ran the power wire up to a closer place to the cell phone. I also ran the audio input wire into the dash. Now, my cigarette lighter socket is freed up; with a USB power port, my passengers can charge their phones.
ShooterMcGavin
New member
Installed a TJM front bumper. It has the cutout for a winch, but I will need to have a base-plate for the winch welded in when I get one. I'm pretty happy with it. It is kinda basic. It doesn't have the grill hoops or the light guards, but I don't care too much for that. It also has basic shackle mounts and lacks cutouts for fog lights, etc. What it does have is built-in turn signals and relative light weight. It came with turn signals, but they aren't as well made as the OEM ones. I want to avoid cutting the wire harness to put the turn signals in, so I have a plan... I am going to build a bracket that will allow me to mount up the factory turn signals behind the bumper cutouts. Then, I can use the better-sealed OEM lights, and I can retain the OEM factory connections Here's a crappy photo.
Here's a crappy photo.
