Shooter's Build Thread
- Thread starter ShooterMcGavin
- Start date
ShooterMcGavin
New member
Hey, thanks for checking back and for asking...
Well, the locker is still in the same non-operational state as before. Once my floor jack broke, I'd taken a break from working on this build. But, I'm back now. I have a plan to try to remove the magnets from the e-locker actuator and figure out their orientation. Hopefully, that'll get it working again.
On the rear bumper, just last night, I spent a lot of time spraying penetrating oil on everything, turning bolts, and breaking most pieces. I got the stock bumper off and I'll need to drill out the bolts that hold the tow bar on. After that, I should be ready to install the rear bumper.
ETA: Hopefully, in the next few days, I'll start having the rear bumper re-finished (touching up the rust spots) and maybe even installed
Well, the locker is still in the same non-operational state as before. Once my floor jack broke, I'd taken a break from working on this build. But, I'm back now. I have a plan to try to remove the magnets from the e-locker actuator and figure out their orientation. Hopefully, that'll get it working again.
On the rear bumper, just last night, I spent a lot of time spraying penetrating oil on everything, turning bolts, and breaking most pieces. I got the stock bumper off and I'll need to drill out the bolts that hold the tow bar on. After that, I should be ready to install the rear bumper.
ETA: Hopefully, in the next few days, I'll start having the rear bumper re-finished (touching up the rust spots) and maybe even installed
Last edited:
Mandelbaum
New member
Saw the post earlier about running the bolts through the entire frame. Since that would be mounting double shear as opposed to single shear, it leads me to believe that you'd have more strength mounting that way in terms of breaking the bolts than if you had a nut inside of the frame.
ShooterMcGavin
New member
I made up some brackets/spacers to mount the OEM turn signals inside the TJM bumper cutouts. Here are some pictures. Right now, they are covered in paint which is drying. The pieces I made needed to be spacers, since the factory lights are curved and the bumper is straight at the cutouts.
Plugged in, factory wire harness in tact
*ETA: I chose to mount the lights behind the bumper, within the cutout, to provide better protection during off-road incidents.
Plugged in, factory wire harness in tact
*ETA: I chose to mount the lights behind the bumper, within the cutout, to provide better protection during off-road incidents.
Hey, thanks for checking back and for asking...
ETA: Hopefully, in the next few days, I'll start having the rear bumper re-finished (touching up the rust spots) and maybe even installed
Good deal, looking forward to that install. I know how annoying broken/rusted bolts can be. Hell we all do. Changed out my rear bump and rounded both since they where rusted on there good. Gotta love the 25min jobs taking 5hrs.
Hopefully you get that locker figured out, be nice to have the rear end locked.
ShooterMcGavin
New member
Here's the finished bracket that I made; one side.
The bumper is finished for the road. The blinkers are more solid now than in the factory installation. There are still 4 more bolts I will add to secure the bumper to the frame. Ten bolts into the frame, total, for some peace of mind when winching or recovery.
The bumper is finished for the road. The blinkers are more solid now than in the factory installation. There are still 4 more bolts I will add to secure the bumper to the frame. Ten bolts into the frame, total, for some peace of mind when winching or recovery.
ShooterMcGavin
New member
Thanks. Yours looks even better. The oval blinkers fit perfectly into yours. Are those fog lights underneath?
I want to add an LED light bar to mine, as you have done.
I want to add an LED light bar to mine, as you have done.
Thanks. As I mentioned, it didn't start out looking good. On the PO's truck it looked like this and was then torched into two pieces.
My 4Runner is the Highlander model with the factory fog lights. I liked them so much I kept them after removing the stock bumper and mounted them under the TJM. I also had some HID Hella lights but they were recently stolen. I replaced them with a light bar and built a surround to prevent a future theft.
My rebuild thread is here: http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?10115-Re-building-Repairing-a-TJM-Bumper/page1
.
My 4Runner is the Highlander model with the factory fog lights. I liked them so much I kept them after removing the stock bumper and mounted them under the TJM. I also had some HID Hella lights but they were recently stolen. I replaced them with a light bar and built a surround to prevent a future theft.
My rebuild thread is here: http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?10115-Re-building-Repairing-a-TJM-Bumper/page1
.
Last edited:
ShooterMcGavin
New member
That write-up is great! Outstanding work bringing that bumper back to its glory. Nicely done Mike!
I agree with you, I would like to have fog lights. Your lights look great. How well are the fogs protected from impact, when driving off-road? Do you have a close-up to show how well the fog lights are protected?
I agree with you, I would like to have fog lights. Your lights look great. How well are the fogs protected from impact, when driving off-road? Do you have a close-up to show how well the fog lights are protected?
They aren't protected. I made some small perches and mounted them to the frame using the TJM mounting bolts. The lights bolt to those perches.
I haven't had any problems off road. For them to get in the way I've got to be wheeling out of my league or doing something stupid. There is a lot of skid plate and lower arm in the way if a rock or something hard got up that high.
I haven't had any problems off road. For them to get in the way I've got to be wheeling out of my league or doing something stupid. There is a lot of skid plate and lower arm in the way if a rock or something hard got up that high.
ShooterMcGavin
New member
Thanks Scramble
I just finished installing the rear Savage bumper. Yes, it is bent on the passenger side. I got it used, from a guy who rolled his 4Runner. I'll get a better picture of it tomorrow.
I just finished installing the rear Savage bumper. Yes, it is bent on the passenger side. I got it used, from a guy who rolled his 4Runner. I'll get a better picture of it tomorrow.
ShooterMcGavin
New member
With the flashers on. I just really like having the factory lights in the bumper.
ShooterMcGavin
New member
Daylight pics of the rear bumper.
Here is one that shows the damage. I would love to, one day, get access to a hydraulic press and straighten it out.
Here is one that shows the damage. I would love to, one day, get access to a hydraulic press and straighten it out.
ShooterMcGavin
New member
Update(s)...
I am so glad I modded that bracket to install the factory blinkers in the front bumper. I highly recommend doing that if you have the option with your bumper. The aftermarket blinkers that came with the bumper had/have problems. They aren't sealed well and the bulb socket is already rusted. The exit of the wires is not designed very robustly. I was looking at the wires that exit the light and moved a wire gently; it fell right out of the light. It's crap! In addition to all of that, I didn't need to cut the wire harness to solder the new lights in.
I have torn the top of my engine apart to replace the valve cover gaskets. When I got in there, I found a mess of oil build-up in the intake manifold. I decided to take that off to thoroughly clean it, and then also clean the intake ports. All of that can be found Here.
Next up, I'll be flushing the cooling system and replacing the timing belt and water pump.
P.S. The new bumpers really make my 4Runner look good, as it sits in my garage
*Edit: For assistance removing the intake manifold for thorough cleaning or other reasons, I have gone through the steps here: Removing the Intake Manifold
I am so glad I modded that bracket to install the factory blinkers in the front bumper. I highly recommend doing that if you have the option with your bumper. The aftermarket blinkers that came with the bumper had/have problems. They aren't sealed well and the bulb socket is already rusted. The exit of the wires is not designed very robustly. I was looking at the wires that exit the light and moved a wire gently; it fell right out of the light. It's crap! In addition to all of that, I didn't need to cut the wire harness to solder the new lights in.
I have torn the top of my engine apart to replace the valve cover gaskets. When I got in there, I found a mess of oil build-up in the intake manifold. I decided to take that off to thoroughly clean it, and then also clean the intake ports. All of that can be found Here.
Next up, I'll be flushing the cooling system and replacing the timing belt and water pump.
P.S. The new bumpers really make my 4Runner look good, as it sits in my garage
*Edit: For assistance removing the intake manifold for thorough cleaning or other reasons, I have gone through the steps here: Removing the Intake Manifold
Last edited:
ShooterMcGavin
New member
About the bumper pictures... I put the shackles on there ONLY for the pictures. I do not drive with them on there.
Updates... I have done a thorough job of replacing the valve cover gaskets. The valve cover bolts are now put in place with lok-tite, so I hope I never need to touch them again. I have no more oil-burning smell inside the vehicle. I have also replaced the timing belt, water pump, accessory belts, and the seals on the cam shafts and crank shaft. If you need details on replacing the seals, they can be found HERE.
I have also installed the front and rear sway bars, using links provided by MStudt. His endlinks are really good quality and he has been very easy to work with. When I have a question or a problem, he is very prompt to respond to me.
Updates... I have done a thorough job of replacing the valve cover gaskets. The valve cover bolts are now put in place with lok-tite, so I hope I never need to touch them again. I have no more oil-burning smell inside the vehicle. I have also replaced the timing belt, water pump, accessory belts, and the seals on the cam shafts and crank shaft. If you need details on replacing the seals, they can be found HERE.
I have also installed the front and rear sway bars, using links provided by MStudt. His endlinks are really good quality and he has been very easy to work with. When I have a question or a problem, he is very prompt to respond to me.
ShooterMcGavin
New member
I spent 20 minutes searching for the 8th zerk on my drive shafts today. Well, found "it"...
The drive shaft clearly flexed into the gas tank skid plate and was torn off. I'll need to find a way to back it out. I have used a broken bolt removal tool so far, but it isn't budging. I am concerned that the tool will just break.
I went ahead and prepared my gas tank skid plate for a new zerk, when I can get the old one out. I cut a section out of the side of the gas tank skid so there should be no more contact after I am able to replace the zerk.
Here are the first couple cuts.
Here is how it turned out after filing, but before shooting it with a little black paint.
The drive shaft clearly flexed into the gas tank skid plate and was torn off. I'll need to find a way to back it out. I have used a broken bolt removal tool so far, but it isn't budging. I am concerned that the tool will just break.
I went ahead and prepared my gas tank skid plate for a new zerk, when I can get the old one out. I cut a section out of the side of the gas tank skid so there should be no more contact after I am able to replace the zerk.
Here are the first couple cuts.
Here is how it turned out after filing, but before shooting it with a little black paint.
ShooterMcGavin
New member
At the same time I made the cutout, I bent some of the close parts of the skid guard away from the drive shaft; if it does contact the skid guard, it should be deflected smoothly rather than catching.
Here is the skid plate with the cutout for the zerk, installed.
Here is the skid plate with the cutout for the zerk, installed.
Last edited:
