Shooter's Build Thread

[ShooterMcGavin]

I recently installed a replacement shifter seat/bushing from Marlin Crawler. I initially left part of the original seat in place and had a hell of a time getting it back together. The shifting is much more precise. I'm hoping that I no longer experience the shifter popping out of gear in first. When it happens, it is kinda violent and startling. I highly recommend this mod for any 5-speed 4Runner.

The cooling system has been thoroughly flushed and refilled with green coolant. The front and front diff skid guards are installed again, after being off for about a year.

I am having problems removing the broken zerk shown in post #58 above. The threads are still in the hole. I have tried using PB Blaster and a broken bolt removal tool with no luck. I really can't afford to break the bolt removal tool off in the hole. Can anyone recommend a procedure I should use to replace the zerk? Should I just drill it out completely, re-tap it, and install a new/larger zerk? If I do that, I'm a little worried about all the metal shavings that will go into the drive shaft, but it might be my only option. I also don't want to buy an expensive set of taps and dies for that work.

 

[A.Wilson013]

I am having problems removing the broken zerk shown in post #58 above. The threads are still in the hole. I have tried using PB Blaster and a broken bolt removal tool with no luck. I really can't afford to break the bolt removal tool off in the hole. Can anyone recommend a procedure I should use to replace the zerk? Should I just drill it out completely, re-tap it, and install a new/larger zerk? If I do that, I'm a little worried about all the metal shavings that will go into the drive shaft, but it might be my only option. I also don't want to buy an expensive set of taps and dies for that work.

Typically the torque spec on a zerk fitting is next to nothing. An extraction device SHOULD take it out without issue.

What type of tool are you using? How big of a hole did you drill into the zerk? You drilled a hole, right?

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Thanks for your help this morning Alex. I will need to drill the zerk out and re-tap the hole.

Update on the Marlin Crawler shift seat... It popped out of first gear today in stop and go traffic. I'm not happy about that.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

What I carry...

Due to this thread: EDC carry kit
I figured I would post up the gear that I carry daily and when in the woods. Pictures will come first and then I will attempt to list off what it all is. I might edit this for better photos in the daylight.

Here is my EDC:


From my EDC, I add some things for woods travel. Specifically, I add a Hi-Lift X-TREME Jack, a heavy duty cable puller/come-along rated at 4 tons Maasdam Pow'R Pull, a 4 foot dirt shovel (not shown), and a "get home bag" (not shown), to be explained later. For Winter and Spring, I also add 2 sets of tire chains, a small snow shovel, an extended window scraper/snow sweeper, and I make sure I always have a hat and extra fleece.
Here is my Woods Setup:


P.S. If you have never driven your 4Runner on snow with snow chains, you owe it to yourself to try it with chains. Except for getting high-centered, you will feel unstoppable Just make sure that you have NO tire-rub.

 

[cxbxgh]

Here is a screenshot of a video, taken during a river crossing on Memorial Day weekend. Got a little water up over the hood

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

I will try to list all of the contents of the bags and boxes that I carry. This is a snapshot in time, so things may be added in the future.

Starting with the top of my toolbox, here is the items list (from the top-left, moving clockwise through the smaller boxes; photo below):
==top-left compartment==
-tire valve stem removal/cleaner/thread prep/installer tools
-replacement tire valve stems
-compact finger nail clipper
-tire valve adapter for bicycles; Presta to Schrader

==moving to the right==
-P1 phillips head screwdriver
-1/8" flathead screwdriver
-cotter pin puller; great for so much (pulling on little things, light prying, hose removal)
-utility knife
-small pry tools (x2)
-magnetic retrieval tool (x2)
-lock pick kit
-impact grade 6" hex extension

==moving to the right-upper==
-spark plug socket
-socket adapter 1/2"F to 3/4" M (impact); I have a mix of 1/2" drive and 3/4" drive sockets in my tools

==below that==
-3/8" universal joint (impact)

==above and right==
-1-3/8" 6-point 3/4" drive socket; equivalent to 35mm socket for axle work

==below==
-1/2" universal joint (impact)
-phillips head hex driver
-flathead hex driver
-hex drive extension

==upper right==
-spare USB to micro-USB cord; my work light can charge a USB device
-not shown - cigarette lighter charger for the work light

==moving down==
-spare spark plug

==moving left==
-snubby phillips head screwdriver
-snubby flathead screwdriver

==moving left==
-socket adapter 1/2"F to 3/8" M (impact)

==moving the lower-left small box==
-assorted sizes of hose clamps

==above==
-self-fusing silicone tape

==large lower compartment==
-angle snips
-needle-nose pliers
-assorted phillips head screwdrivers; P2-P4
-assorted flathead screwdrivers; 3/16"-1/4"

Shortcomings with this tool kit:
-no very long screwdrivers



More tools to come...

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

The tools carried inside the toolbox will be described further down this list.

Here are the other tools/items that I carry, starting from top-left and moving roughly clockwise (photo below):
==upper-left (10 o'clock position)==
-heavy-duty rubber wheel chocks (x3)
-long flexible tool grabber
-~40 feet of 1/2" rope
-light-duty ratchet straps (x4; 1 used to hold the tools stationary in the truck)
-fluid pump
-light-weight folding hand-saw
-small hatchet

==to the right of the gray toolbox==
-heavy-duty rubber wheel chocks (x2)
-collection of small plastic bags for trash, parts, trail debris, etc.
-LOFTEK LED work light, with USB charging port for cell phones
-assorted bungee cords in plastic canister
-light-weight hoses for the fluid pump; keeps wet hoses from leaking
-stabilizer pads for jacking; need to drill holes and carry bolts for Hi-Lift jack
-folding, reflective emergency triangles (x3)
-Rigid impact driver; 4Ahr battery and hex to 1/2" drive adapter

==below that==
-3"x30' tow strap with stitched ends
-2"x20' tow strap with hooks; for tree trunk anchor or small pulls
-leather work gloves, kept with the tow strap gear
-inside the bag is an aluminum tow strap safety bar; quick attachments
-~50 feet of 3/16" cord

==in the 6 o'clock position==
-Viair 380C air compressor
-custom wiring with disconnector and high amperage battery clamps
-coiled heavy-duty air hose
-locking air chuck
-non-locking extension air chuck
-Gorilla tape roll (x2)
-long, heavy-duty jumper cables

==above and to the left==
-~8 feet of 3/8" chain, with hooks for a leap-frog pull
-shackles (11/16" x4)
-bag for air compressor with different lengths of spare hose

==above==
-receiver hitch D-ring with shackle
-tow hitch pin
-leather gloves
-emergency blanket; can also be used as ground-cover for vehicle work

==center, tools/items which are stored inside the toolbox==
-PB Blaster penetrating oil
-thin bailing wire
-long-handle 3/4" drive ratchet
-socket adapter 3/4"F to 1/2" M (impact)
-1/2" x 8" socket extension (impact)
-set of metric and some SAE ratcheting wrenches, 10-19mm, in the canvas bag
-set of metric flare nut wrenches
-snap-ring pliers
-manual impact driver, 1/2" drive with hex adapter, flat head drive, and phillips drive
-2 lb mini sledge hammer
-1/2" drive impact socket set, assorted 10-21mm
-medical scissors
-assorted zip-ties
-thick bailing wire
-assorted hex wrenches, metric and SAE (SAE for aftermarket items)
-3/8" x 10" locking socket extension
-standard Vise-grip pliers
-needle nose Vise-grip pliers
-12" adjustable wrench
-8" adjustable wrench
-mini hack-saw handle and blade
-10" channel-lock pliers

==inside the truck==
-Staun tire deflators, adjustable 6-30 psi
-air pressure gauge (x2)
-mini spare flashlight
-small spare flashlight
-long 5/16" screwdriver
-high visibility vest
-assorted mini fuses
-first-aid kit
-full spare set of engine accessory belts
-usually I have a spare fleece

Shortcomings with the above setup:
-no deep sockets
-no thin-wall sockets
-the work light is large, bulky, and only lasts for about 3 hours; smaller with a magnet would help
-trash bags would be useful for many things



In addition to these everyday carry tools/items, I also have off-road tools that are added, snow items (chains, snow scraper, shovel), and a "get home bag". The "get home bag" has water purification, a heavy-duty knife, fire starting items, water bag, first-aid items, emergency space blanket, lock pick, compass, sunglasses, sun/rain hat, multi-tool, and many other small items.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

I got some jobs on the truck done today. I added a washer into the throttle body pivot, to fix my high idle problem. I took the cone bump stops out of the rear coils, to reduce the height of the rear slightly; it only dropped the back end about 3/8". Then, I installed extended bump stops from a late '90s GMC Jimmy. The original bump stops were about 2-1/4". The new bump stops are about 5-1/4", but they are also softer. There is a little give to them. I took the springs out and did a test. It appears that the bump stops take weight off the suspension before the shocks over-compress.

Here is a photo with the passenger side jacked up until weight began coming off the jack stand.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

I have a kinked power steering line under the truck from the previous owner. I plan to replace the line and then refill the power steering fluid.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

I finished replacing the kinked power steering line under the truck. Picture is below. Some thoughts... after looking at a bunch of Youtube videos and getting advice here, I want to share some of my experience. I think I drained the system thoroughly; I turned the wheel side to side many times until all dripping stopped, but filling the system only took like 1 quart of fluid. Nobody mentioned that as I am bleeding the system, both with the ignition off and with it on, fluid would spray out of the power steering fluid reservoir and go all over the place. When you remove the hard lines under the truck, each fitting has a small brass cone/seal in it. Don't lose those or forget to orient them properly. I finished bleeding the system and then found one of those brass pieces under the truck - redo.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

I discovered something tonight, for those who disconnect their front sway bar and tie the sway bar up so it doesn't hit the LCA or CV boot. This may not be a big deal for others but, when I would disconnect the sway bar, I would pull it up high and secure it to the UCA. If you do pull the sway bar up and tie it, it will contact the inner side of the rim/tire at full droop and full lock turning to that side. My advice: tie the sway bar only slightly above level to prevent this.

This picture shows the driver's side at full droop and turned only about 60% to the left. You can see the sway bar at the top of the pic. It is contacting and blocking the tire from turning any further.

 

[fourfive]

I turned the wheel side to side many times until all dripping stopped, but filling the system only took like 1 quart of fluid. Nobody mentioned that as I am bleeding the system, both with the ignition off and with it on, fluid would spray out of the power steering fluid reservoir and go all over the place.

Did you have the cap on?

When you remove the hard lines under the truck, each fitting has a small brass cone/seal in it. Don't lose those or forget to orient them properly. I finished bleeding the system and then found one of those brass pieces under the truck - redo.

Thanks for the tip.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Did you have the cap on?

I didn't have the cap on

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Here is my long-anticipated return post. I have been off this forum for quite some time now, handling life and stuff. But I'm back to the 4Runner... I spotted a torn CV boot (inner) about 6 months ago and I have been waiting to get into a garage to reboot it. Done today. My reverse lights stopped turning on in reverse. I bought a new switch to go into the transmission for $50. That fixed my problem. I read where other people had taken their failing switch out and cleaned it thoroughly, and it began working but then failed again soon after. I just replaced mine.

So, what is Shooter doing now? *sigh* Preparing to tear into the rear end and replace axle seals, wheel bearings, and then replace the entire rear brake system. Along with/after that, I'll be replacing the transfer case output seals, both front and rear. I have had a leak from the TC for a while. I am really hoping that my parking brake begins working again after I replace the rear brakes. I am feeling anxious about doing this rear axle seal replacement job. I bought a Harbor Freight 20 ton press and I will be doing the entire job by myself.

Question for those following along... If you have had oil soaked rear brakes that didn't work, and then you replaced the seals and the brakes... With the new brakes in the rear, did you notice improved braking?

P.S. I need to take some time and space to give a huge thanks and solid support to [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] for his amazing series of videos on YouTube as Timmy the Toolman! Below is a link to his YouTube channel. It is well worth your time to view his extremely helpful videos.

https://www.youtube.com/user/mtbtim65/videos?view=0&shelf_id=1&sort=dd

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

I'm performing a rear axle seal replacement, along with new rear brakes...
Taking axles out went more smoothly than I had imagined. I thought rust and frozen bolts would have me hammering for days, but it was quick and easy. I am reusing the rear diff oil, since it is synthetic and doesn't have even 10k miles on it yet. I have pressed off the first retainer and ABS ring. Then, I messed up royally! I went right into bolting up the hub and pressing off the wheel bearing and outer retainer. What had I forgotten to do? Remove the snap ring. Yeah, I still feel really dumb

I picked up the pieces and gathered my composure. I attempted to take out the snap ring, but it was under huge force. I pressed the bearing back into the hub and then hammered on the retainer with a punch before I could try taking the snap ring off. I got the snap ring off with some work with flathead screwdrivers. Once the bearing and hub were off the axle, I used a piece of plastic pipe to hammer the bearing out of the hub. Well, surprise, the hub fell out of the brake backing plate. I did get the bearing out eventually, and I pressed the new bearing back into the hub. Tomorrow, I will be putting the first axle back together with some improvised tools, replacing the seal on that side, installing the axle, and moving on to the other axle.

 

[mtbtim]

I'm performing a rear axle seal replacement, along with new rear brakes...
Taking axles out went more smoothly than I had imagined. I thought rust and frozen bolts would have me hammering for days, but it was quick and easy. I am reusing the rear diff oil, since it is synthetic and doesn't have even 10k miles on it yet. I have pressed off the first retainer and ABS ring. Then, I messed up royally! I went right into bolting up the hub and pressing off the wheel bearing and outer retainer. What had I forgotten to do? Remove the snap ring. Speaking of "snap", it was more like a BOOM!!! It's my first time using a press, so I didn't know how much pressure was necessary for this job. I kept pressing until I bent the huge 3/4" thick square plate on the end of the DuraSolid axle bearing puller and finally I pulled the threads right out of that plate. Things came crashing down. Yeah, I still feel really dumb

I picked up the pieces and gathered my composure. I attempted to take out the snap ring, but it was under huge force. I pressed the bearing back into the hub and then hammered on the retainer with a punch before I could try taking the snap ring off. I got the snap ring off with some work with flathead screwdrivers. I flipped the square DuraSolid plate over to hopefully get some threads that will work and it was a challenge threading the pipe into the plate. I got it to thread in and I finally pulled the wheel hub with the wheel bearing and outer retainer ring. Once the bearing and hub were off the axle, I used a piece of plastic pipe to hammer the bearing out of the hub. Well, surprise, the hub fell out of the brake backing plate. I did get the bearing out eventually, and I pressed the new bearing back into the hub. Tomorrow, I will be putting the first axle back together with some improvised tools, replacing the seal on that side, installing the axle, and moving on to the other axle.

Well that's a bummer. The Durasolid tool isn't an inexpensive tool. I wondered how much force that c-clip could hold and I guess it obviously holds a lot.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

That C clip can hold HUGE amounts of force. I'm about to get back into the project. I'm still uneasy about the mistake I made last night.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Project complete! I amazed myself. I was very wary going into this one, but I just finished putting things together. New rear axle seals and new rear wheel bearings (along with all the other stuff). Now... I need to fill the axle with gear oil to finish that job and I will be on to replacing everything in the rear brakes.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Some things that have been done recently. I finished putting the rear drum brakes all back together. Unfortunately, I ordered and replaced more parts than I really needed. Those Toyota adjusters and some other parts don't seem to ever need replacing, but I wanted a full brake refresh. One of the bell cranks was completely rusted solid. I replaced both bell cranks with aftermarket models, and they don't seem as good. The parking brake works, but not well, maybe due to those aftermarket bell cranks. I also did a CV reboot on the driver's side. Slight boot stretch, but the boot bellows still touch. Years ago, I lifted the rear suspension and the drive shaft went into the gas tank skid plate. I broke off the rear drive shaft zerk for the slip yoke. I sprayed the stub of it with PB Blaster and let it sit, but I still could not get it out with a remover kit. If I forced it, it might have broken the remover off in the hole and I would have been really screwed. I borrowed a tap and die set. I drilled out the stub of the zerk with a 3/16" drill bit and tapped it with a 6mm x1 tap. The threads cleaned out nicely and I installed a new 6mm zerk.

There's always so much to do with this truck. My CV boot bellows are rubbing slightly, so I worry that I will have to reboot them again soon. I have a small tear in my tie rod end boot, so that needs replacing. The front LCAs need to be replaced. The UBJs need replacing. Bushings in the rear suspension? No idea. Fix 4WD. Fix rear locker. Electrical stuff, like the interior light and the sunroof switch. Rear lift struts. Cracked windshield. Tires soon. And that doesn't even start to get into the upgrades I want to do.

 

[Plastics guy]

Here is my long-anticipated return post. I have been off this forum for quite some time now, handling life and stuff. But I'm back to the 4Runner... I spotted a torn CV boot (inner) about 6 months ago and I have been waiting to get into a garage to reboot it. Done today. My reverse lights stopped turning on in reverse. I bought a new switch to go into the transmission for $50. That fixed my problem. I read where other people had taken their failing switch out and cleaned it thoroughly, and it began working but then failed again soon after. I just replaced mine.

So, what is Shooter doing now? *sigh* Preparing to tear into the rear end and replace axle seals, wheel bearings, and then replace the entire rear brake system. Along with/after that, I'll be replacing the transfer case output seals, both front and rear. I have had a leak from the TC for a while. I am really hoping that my parking brake begins working again after I replace the rear brakes. I am feeling anxious about doing this rear axle seal replacement job. I bought a Harbor Freight 20 ton press and I will be doing the entire job by myself.

Question for those following along... If you have had oil soaked rear brakes that didn't work, and then you replaced the seals and the brakes... With the new brakes in the rear, did you notice improved braking?

P.S. I need to take some time and space to give a huge thanks and solid support to [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] for his amazing series of videos on YouTube as Timmy the Toolman! Below is a link to his YouTube channel. It is well worth your time to view his extremely helpful videos.

https://www.youtube.com/user/mtbtim65/videos?view=0&shelf_id=1&sort=dd

I had the same problem with my 02. Once I completed the same job your up against everything was perfect. E-brake and all.