Should I install new brake cylinders in my rear brake refresh?

[ShooterMcGavin]

I am replacing my rear axle seals and then replacing most things in the rear brakes. I have never had a working parking brake or working rear brakes since I have owned this vehicle. Everything in the brake drum has been coated with thick oil and sludge for years. I have ordered parts to replace everything except the brake cylinder. It is an unknown. Should I spend the money to replace the cylinders on each side? They are like $15 each from O'Reilly's.

 

[mtbtim]

Usually people will just replace the shoes and clean everything else up. Some will resurface the drums, others will replace the drums and then some will do nothing with the drums. It's been my experience you can get away with reusing the drums and do nothing to them as long as they are still smooth. The springs, adjuster wheels, adjuster plates, parking brake levers and parking brake cables are generally reusable unless they are seriously compromised by rust. And, the brake cylinders are reusable if they aren't leaking. But, since you're replacing everything else, why not spend the extra $30 and renew everything.

 

[Buckaroo]

If it were me, I would not replace the brake cylinders if they are not leaking...but, maybe hard to tell with all that sludge? I don't consider brake cylinders/calipers a general maintenance item to be replaced on any type of schedule. Same with the adjuster wheel mechanism although it needs to be disassembled and greased. You likely already know this but the adjuster wheel mechanisms are not the same side to side. Make sure you don't swap them. I do think replacing the bell crank mechanism (given it's likely seized up) and using new hardware (springs, etc) is a good idea. It would be good if you could check the drum inside diameter to determine if it is out of spec and needs replacement - if still in spec and the surface is smooth, I would just reinstall them.

Buckaroo

 

[Hopeless Diamond]

You gotta wonder though, where'd all that sludge come from? Something's leaking and gumming everything up. A good cleaning will help identify the source. Having a couple of wheel cylinders on hand if needed is better than having to make another trip to the parts store in the middle of the project. You can always return them.

 

[I_bRAD]

You gotta wonder though, where'd all that sludge come from? Something's leaking and gumming everything up. A good cleaning will help identify the source. Having a couple of wheel cylinders on hand if needed is better than having to make another trip to the parts store in the middle of the project. You can always return them.

Seems reasonable to expect the sludge came from the leaky axle seal he's replacing.

 

[I_bRAD]

I am replacing my rear axle seals and then replacing most things in the rear brakes. I have never had a working parking brake or working rear brakes since I have owned this vehicle. Everything in the brake drum has been coated with thick oil and sludge for years. I have ordered parts to replace everything except the brake cylinder. It is an unknown. Should I spend the money to replace the cylinders on each side? They are like $15 each from O'Reilly's.

It only takes a few minutes to take them apart and clean them, then make the call if you think they need replacing. Mine looked pretty crappy but cleaned up nicely and I'm sticking with them.

 

[Kanoe]

My hard earned experience is that the old original Toyota parts are probably going to last longer than the new cheap parts. If the originals seem to clean up OK I would run with them.

 

[JZiggy]

My hard earned experience is that the old original Toyota parts are probably going to last longer than the new cheap parts. If the originals seem to clean up OK I would run with them.

Agreed! Or if you do replace, make sure to use Aisin or an equivalent brand.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Great advice. Thanks everyone. I am also of the opinion that the old Toyota cylinders will probably outlast the new O'Reillys parts. I still need to clean everything but I'm going 1 step at a time.

Another question is, should I replace the shoes, springs, adjusters, and bell crank while the axle and brake assembly is off the truck or fix the axle seal and put it all back on the truck first?

 

[I_bRAD]

Great advice. Thanks everyone. I am also of the opinion that the old Toyota cylinders will probably outlast the new O'Reillys parts. I still need to clean everything but I'm going 1 step at a time.

Another question is, should I replace the shoes, springs, adjusters, and bell crank while the axle and brake assembly is off the truck or fix the axle seal and put it all back on the truck first?

I considered that, but I think it's easier to assemble the brakes with the axle installed on the truck.

FWIW you can buy a rebuild kit for the wheel cylinder from toyota, but will likely cost more than the aftermarket assembly.

 

[I_bRAD]

And good luck finding the "lithium soap based glycol grease" the service manual calls for to rebuild the wheel cylinders. IMO any grease that won't dissolve in brake fluid is appropriate. I used silicone based brake lube that specifically says OK for pistons.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Cool. I will assemble everything first. I prefer working on one project at a time anyways.

 

[3bears]

I'm thinking , if your replacing everything else, why not the cylinders
one less thing to think about miles down the road
and I'm sure others will say aftermarket is not worth it,
but aftermarket vs 180k stock....hmmm...which is gonna last the next few years
does Toyota make a rebuild kit, with the materials that will last another 180k
id go that route unless the cylinders are scored before a new aftermarket. Crap, were only talking about a few rubber cups and 10 minutes a cylinder to rebuild if that

 

[gamefreakgc]

Great advice. Thanks everyone. I am also of the opinion that the old Toyota cylinders will probably outlast the new O'Reillys parts. I still need to clean everything but I'm going 1 step at a time.

Another question is, should I replace the shoes, springs, adjusters, and bell crank while the axle and brake assembly is off the truck or fix the axle seal and put it all back on the truck first?

I found it easier to do the springs on the truck first. There's a couple of springs that are VERY difficult to put on when brand new because they are so stiff. It was near impossible with the axle off and wanting to roll around my garage.

I fixed my seals first, then did the rear brakes and it made it simpler.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Thanks for the ideas. I am definitely going to finish my axle seals and get everything re-installed before tackling the brakes. I'm just worried how many more parts I will need to buy to get these brakes working in great condition, including parking brake to both sides.

 

[Buckaroo]

Find attached list of parts I purchased from Rockauto when I did this job Feb '15...all working well except boots on the Dorman Bell Cranks have not held up as well as I would have liked.

Buckaroo

 

[meRockboost]

Great advice. Thanks everyone. I am also of the opinion that the old Toyota cylinders will probably outlast the new O'Reillys parts. I still need to clean everything but I'm going 1 step at a time.

Another question is, should I replace the shoes, springs, adjusters, and bell crank while the axle and brake assembly is off the truck or fix the axle seal and put it all back on the truck first?

The bell cranks can be wire brushed and reused. I learned after multiple parts runs that oem is the way to go. Aftermarket spring/pin/cup kits are generic and 3 local stores had the same ones which were shirter pins so I had to replace with oem after I assembled and one of the cups ripped out because of too much spring pressure by the shorter pin. My aftermarket rotors are rusted to shit after a year and I even spent a lot of time cleaning them and applying multiple coats of rustoloeum.

Their is a reason the oem stuff lasts most people 100-200k miles, you pay for quality. Buy once, cry once.

 

[kolelt]

If the brake cylinder is not leaking than it’s fine. If you off road a lot. I would just do new hardware and pads. And make sure the adjuster is not seized. Clean up the drum and that’s it. It’s what I did. Why? Because after every off road session the rear needs to be basically re-adjusted. Dirt and shit destroys the rear pads/drums quickly.

 

[JohnMc]

If you live in a wet environment it might be worth peeking under the rubber seals to see if it's getting rusty/crusty inside. If it's clean, don't worry about it.

The other thing to worry about is internal corrosion. If you're in a wet environment the brake fluid absorbs moisture over time and gradually lowers the boiling point (bad) and can eventually start forming rust in things like the master cylinder, calipers, and wheel cylinders. You just need to flush fluid through the system every once in a great while if you live in a damp environment. Crack the bleed valves open and flush fluid through until it runs clear again.

 

[amalik]

If you live in a wet environment it might be worth peeking under the rubber seals to see if it's getting rusty/crusty inside. If it's clean, don't worry about it.

The other thing to worry about is internal corrosion. If you're in a wet environment the brake fluid absorbs moisture over time and gradually lowers the boiling point (bad) and can eventually start forming rust in things like the master cylinder, calipers, and wheel cylinders. You just need to flush fluid through the system every once in a great while if you live in a damp environment. Crack the bleed valves open and flush fluid through until it runs clear again.

I think you mean flush brake fluid from the MC in the engine bay to each bleeder valve, right?