Shrockworks install fail: 2011 TE

[tpirman]

Shrockworks install success: 2011 4R TE tips

I hate to start another thread about problems installing the Shrockworks sliders, but I think this warrants it. I finally got my sliders after ordering them on April 9th, over three months. I opened the box and couldn't have been happier with the packaging and the quality, they look awesome.

But...

I just spent two hours trying to install them and failed. Everywhere there are threaded holes on the frame the sliders mount up great. But, as the instructions note, some of the holes that line up are not threaded so they provide sticknuts. Those sticknuts don't fit in any holes on my frame, and even if they did I really don't see any way that I would be able to get them behind the hole to put the bolt in them.

On the driver's side, the only thing holding them up right now is the gas tank bolt. On the passenger side on the front bracket had threads, so without the sticknuts getting into the frame miraculously, they are only half mounted.

I am at a loss and pretty much resigned to giving up unless someone has some neat trick or tip on how to make them work. Here are some pics of what I am talking about.

 

[tpirman]

Ok, so venting a little here and taking a break helped. I used my grinder to grind down the nut side of the sticknut and got them to work. Passenger side all mounted up. Now to go see if I can figure out how to finish the driver's side.

Thanks for listening

 

[Titanpat57]

walk away...grab a beer

refocus...

grab another beer...

count to ten, refocus..

grab another beer...


see a pattern emerging?


good luck...you'll get them!:redbrick:

 

[453030]

Looks very similar to when I installed them on my Trail, and I had no such problems. I remember on some of the strip nuts having a few options in the frame on where to feed them from; make sure you look at all the options.

It is indeed a dramatic title to your post, but for every person who had difficulty, there are many of us who got them on without problem. Mine arrived in just over 3 weeks when I ordered them a year ago. My experiences with Jim and Shrockworks have been great, and that really has me thinking about the new bumper :guitar3:

 

[tpirman]

Seriously, walking away really does help. Here are two tips for people who run into the same situation I did:

1) Grind the sticknuts down so that they fit in the circular hole next to where the bolt attaches the slider to the frame. There is conveniently one for each bolt that doesn't have threads in the frame.

2) Hold the unbent sticknut up between the same holes mentioned above and eyeball where you need to bend the sticknut. Then bend it at a 90 degree angle. Once you do that and get the hang of it it's actually quite easy.

I still can't get the top rear bolt in on the driver's side, but that is because I think the bolt is too short and doesn't have enough threads to get through the extra layer from the diagonal cross member. I am going to get a longer bolt and try again to test that theory.

I am happy now, they are installed and solid as a rock

 

[04rnr]

and people wonder why Id NEVER give them (shrwrongworks) any of my money,,, how you get it fixed

 

[tpirman]

Looks very similar to when I installed them on my Trail, and I had no such problems. I remember on some of the strip nuts having a few options in the frame on where to feed them from; make sure you look at all the options.

It is indeed a dramatic title to your post, but for every person who had difficulty, there are many of us who got them on without problem. Mine arrived in just over 3 weeks when I ordered them a year ago. My experiences with Jim and Shrockworks have been great, and that really has me thinking about the new bumper :guitar3:

When I posted "fail" in my post, I meant myself, so no dig at Shrockworks. I was a little annoyed at how long it took only because they said 4-6 weeks and it ended up being much longer than that. I can even understand that. But every time I called it was "They are going out next week" and that went on for a few weeks. No biggie, especially after seeing the quality of the product. Just letting people know so they know what to expect when they order.

The entry for the sticknuts are definitely those holes that are perfect circles. You can see them in my pictures. Once I figured that out it all made sense.

I will say though, the stick nuts had absolutely no way of fitting through those holes until I ground them down. It's a good thing I have a grinder.

 

[mgrande]

What is that thing?

 

[tpirman]

What is that thing?

That's the sticknut. Where the frame isn't threaded for a bolt to attached the slider with, you put this through a hole in the frame and use it put a bolt into on the nut side.

 

[mgrande]

Is it just used for reaching or is that shaft actual mounting hardware?

 

[Reata]

Thanks so much for your post. It makes perfect sense to me.....except, once you get the sticknut in and all bolted down, what happens or what do you do with the "stick"? Seems like it could create some vibration noises. Just curious.

Thanks,

 

[tlflow]

technique

Is it just used for reaching or is that shaft actual mounting hardware?

That is so you can hold them in your teeth, when you are laying on the ground at 9:45 at night holding the slider in place with one hand and trying to find the rachet with the other. Then you don't lose the stick nut and have to start over.:hatsoff:

The stick also comes in handy to hold the nut in place where your hand can't go.

 

[Okki]

Thanks so much for your post. It makes perfect sense to me.....except, once you get the sticknut in and all bolted down, what happens or what do you do with the "stick"? Seems like it could create some vibration noises. Just curious.

Thanks,

The stick stays on... No noise that I've ever heard. Most of the sticknut ends in my case ended up inside the frame. I think I have one place where that's not the case and it's simply bent flat against the bottom of the frame.

I did spraypaint all of mine before using them to inhibit rust a bit.

Okki

 

[mtbnole]

I had the same concerns, but then i looked maybe 3 inches away and saw the larger holes you see in the pictures you posted. like you said, you eyeball it and they bend the stick to fit where needed. it takes some patience, but it;s not hard to do.

I was also concerned withthe sticks not coming off, and after talking to Mark @ shrockworks, they are on there per his info and don't make a sound.

Maybe change the title of your post, since this certainly is not a fail.

 

[tpirman]

That is so you can hold them in your teeth, when you are laying on the ground at 9:45 at night holding the slider in place with one hand and trying to find the rachet with the other. Then you don't lose the stick nut and have to start over.:hatsoff:

The stick also comes in handy to hold the nut in place where your hand can't go.

You couldn't be more right on!

I did spraypaint all of mine before using them to inhibit rust a bit.

Okki

Good idea. I have some clear rust inhibitor I'll hit them with.

I had the same concerns, but then i looked maybe 3 inches away and saw the larger holes you see in the pictures you posted. like you said, you eyeball it and they bend the stick to fit where needed. it takes some patience, but it;s not hard to do.

I was also concerned withthe sticks not coming off, and after talking to Mark @ shrockworks, they are on there per his info and don't make a sound.

Maybe change the title of your post, since this certainly is not a fail.

Yep, the long part of the nut has a use that is twofold: one is to jimmy the nut in behind the hole, the other is to keep the nut from spinning. I just bent the flexible part out of the way. I thought about pushing them inside the frame, but I though I might want to be able to take them off easily some day and once they're in the frame I bet they are really difficult to get out.

I changed the title of the post right away when I got things to work and it took in the actual thread (see above) but the main title on the forum list didn't change. I know I've done this before when selling something on calguns.net, but it's not working here. What am I doing wrong?

 

[tpirman]

A couple other notes that people will hopefully find helpful.

I had to use a longer bolt for the upper rear brace on the driver's side. You'll see that on the driver's side slider they have designed it to go around the hard-lines by adding a diagonal gusset that connects the slider to the frame at the top. This is removable and they provide a longer bolt for connecting the gusset to the slider. I am not sure why this isn't just welded in place, but I am sure there is a good reason. They provide 1" 3/8 bolts for attaching the slider to the frame, and while it might have worked with the extra thickness the gusset added (I couldn't get it to work, not enough threads), I found it much easier to purchase a 1 1/2" 3/8 bolt. Once I had the extra length, it was much easier to get things started. (That's what she said.)

Also, I called Shrockworks and let them know my thoughts on how they could redesign the stick nut to make it fit the existing holes. By simply turning the nut 90 degrees and welding it top and bottom to the "stick" instead of diagonally, they would have a strong solution that is more narrow than the current design, removing the need to grind it down. Mark seemed very receptive to this idea.

 

[harper7]

A couple other notes that people will hopefully find helpful.

I had to use a longer bolt for the upper rear brace on the driver's side. You'll see that on the driver's side slider they have designed it to go around the hard-lines by adding a diagonal gusset that connects the slider to the frame at the top. This is removable and they provide a longer bolt for connecting the gusset to the slider. I am not sure why this isn't just welded in place, but I am sure there is a good reason. They provide 1" 3/8 bolts for attaching the slider to the frame, and while it might have worked with the extra thickness the gusset added (I couldn't get it to work, not enough threads), I found it much easier to purchase a 1 1/2" 3/8 bolt. Once I had the extra length, it was much easier to get things started. (That's what she said.)

Also, I called Shrockworks and let them know my thoughts on how they could redesign the stick nut to make it fit the existing holes. By simply turning the nut 90 degrees and welding it top and bottom to the "stick" instead of diagonally, they would have a strong solution that is more narrow than the current design, removing the need to grind it down. Mark seemed very receptive to this idea.

Just to clarify about the bolts if you replace them. They used metric bolts because the nuts in the frame have metric threads. The thread pitch is different on metric bolts compared to US standard bolts.Even though US bolts might go in feeling real tight ,they can/will strip the threads on the nutplates.

 

[tpirman]

Just to clarify about the bolts if you replace them. They used metric bolts because the nuts in the frame have metric threads. The thread pitch is different on metric bolts compared to US standard bolts.Even though US bolts might go in feeling real tight ,they can/will strip the threads on the nutplates.

Yep, that is right Harper. The bolts that are used in the holes that are threaded in the frame are M8 1.25X30mm. The bolt and sticknut combination use US standard 3/8 bolts. They are not metric.

 

[tlflow]

strength

I think they should be grade 5 or 8. I think the metric equivalent is 8.8 or10.9?

 

[GreerAZ]

This post really helped while I was installing my rock sliders today. It looks like there are better places to connect sliders to the frame that would have used existing threaded holes instead of those crazy nut sticks. Shrockworks also must have ignored the idea of rotating the nut as I had to grind down mine to fit in the holes too. They make a great rock slider, but their instructions were seriously lacking. A few more pictures, an exploded diagram, and instructions on how to use the nut sticks would really help.