Shrockworks Sliders and RCI Crossmember

[dagen]

Hey all,
I am trying to install my RCI skids today. I already have shrockworks rock sliders on and they are in the way of the RCI cross member.
Have any other people run into this issue, and what did you do to remedy it? I did a search and couldn't come up with anything. I am considering notching out the Shrockworks slider middle support to make room for the cross member. Does this seem like a bad idea? it seems like there would still be support from the other two slider attachment points and that the cross member may keep some degree of support.

Any help is appreciated since I am in the middle of the install.

Thanks!!

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Ran into the same issue with my CBI Sliders.

This is what I ended up doing:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/84725-zombie-truck-2-0-mpav-build-8.html#post1680097

 

[Inv4drZm]

I would cut off the back side of the slider support and just weld the front side onto the frame. You can try without welding but only having two supports for each slider will be quite a bit weaker obviously. If you aren't wheeling in the rocks 24/7 you could try it and see if they get bent.

Either that or get some weld-on sliders.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I would cut off the back side of the slider support and just weld the front side onto the frame. You can try without welding but only having two supports for each slider will be quite a bit weaker obviously. If you aren't wheeling in the rocks 24/7 you could try it and see if they get bent.

Either that or get some weld-on sliders.

If you look at my linked thread post I actually cut the back of the bracket off and then used a bolt to sandwich the RCI crossmember and the slider bottom plate to the frame so that it'd still be structurally sound. I agonized over the same thought for a while, so far it's held up without issue for years and hasn't shown signs of giving in.

The idea being that the bracket is still "L" Shaped so that if pressure is applied on the sliders they will push against the side of the frame and with the bottom of the "L" bolted solidly to the frame it just wedges against the frame if upward pressure is applied to the sliders.

 

[dagen]

If you look at my linked thread post I actually cut the back of the bracket off and then used a bolt to sandwich the RCI crossmember and the slider bottom plate to the frame so that it'd still be structurally sound. I agonized over the same thought for a while, so far it's held up without issue for years and hasn't shown signs of giving in.

The idea being that the bracket is still "L" Shaped so that if pressure is applied on the sliders they will push against the side of the frame and with the bottom of the "L" bolted solidly to the frame it just wedges against the frame if upward pressure is applied to the sliders.

Thanks for the feedback! I ended up going a slightly different route, but I did get it done in the end. I'm glad to not have the factory skids on there anymore. They were a little beat up.

On a weird side note, I am now getting an odd vibration when I go from a complete stop to moving after the skid plate install. Not sure exactly what is happening. It feels like it's coming from the driver side front, but not exactly sure. There is a lip on both the rear of the T-case skid and the front lip of the gas tank. I had to use a floor jack to get the T-case skid all the way up, so maybe it's where they are pressed against each other.

Anyhow, thanks for the help!

 

[BlairB]

Thanks for the feedback! I ended up going a slightly different route, but I did get it done in the end. I'm glad to not have the factory skids on there anymore. They were a little beat up.

Any details/photos of what you ended up doing? I will be tackling the same thing next weekend.

 

[dagen]

Any details/photos of what you ended up doing? I will be tackling the same thing next weekend.

I probably didn't go the "ideal" route, but I ended up notching the cross member. I may have it welded in down the road, and maybe not. Really depends on if anything starts to fall apart. I mostly am out in open terrain and need the skids for the occasional rock and just bottoming out on dirt bumps.

I can see how if you have the time and tools that welding in the cross member would work best. Unfortunately I only have cutting tools and no welder.

So far I have done some highway/ city driving and a day at Pismo with no issues. Pics below

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Time will tell how well that will hold-up.

My only concern is that that flange is for the most part distributes force when the crossmember is being pushed on.

 

[dagen]

Time will tell how well that will hold-up.

My only concern is that that flange is for the most part distributes force when the crossmember is being pushed on.

I totally hear you on that one. It was not my ideal situation. I have a job up in Portland that I am driving the 4Runner up for on Monday and I needed the quick fix. Going to get a day and a half to explore while I'm up there.

I figure that worst case I can call RCI and order up another cross member and have it welded in or something.

I'm not normally bashing on the skid plates, so like you said, time will tell. For now I'll just have to keep my fingers crossed.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I totally hear you on that one. It was not my ideal situation. I have a job up in Portland that I am driving the 4Runner up for on Monday and I needed the quick fix. Going to get a day and a half to explore while I'm up there.

I figure that worst case I can call RCI and order up another cross member and have it welded in or something.

I'm not normally bashing on the skid plates, so like you said, time will tell. For now I'll just have to keep my fingers crossed.

You don't want it welded in, if you ever need to service the vehicle it will make it impossible.

I would say the way I did mine would be best unless you just weld the sliders to the frame.

 

[dagen]

You don't want it welded in, if you ever need to service the vehicle it will make it impossible.

I would say the way I did mine would be best unless you just weld the sliders to the frame.

Ohhhhh, right. . .didn't think that one all the way through (clearly).

I suppose if I change it out with a new crossmember I'll have to go your route.

Thanks again!

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Ohhhhh, right. . .didn't think that one all the way through (clearly).

I suppose if I change it out with a new crossmember I'll have to go your route.

Thanks again!

You wouldn't have to replace the entire crossmember I would imagine, you might be able to get away with having a local welding shop trim the damaged/cut-up part off and weld a new flange on it?