Shrockworks sliders install issue

E

Exempt

New member
Howdy folks,

I recently decided to dip into the wild world of aftermarket parts for my car, and amongst them are my new shrockworks sliders.

The installation went smooth as silk until the last screws had to be put in on the rear driver side. I have a 2011 Trail Edition and ordered the TE skids (le'duh).

Problem for those mechanically inclined:
The frame does *not* have threading available for the screws, and there is no hole on the frame big enough for me to stick in a nut on a stick. the closest hole large enough is about 10" away.
I have not had time to call shrockworks since the installation, but I plan on it when i get another chance to work on the car. For now the slider is bolted on with just 1 screw in the back, and it seems to be solid enough for now.

any ideas on how to get those last couple screws in?

thanks
 
Register to hide this ad
Exempt said:
Howdy folks,

I recently decided to dip into the wild world of aftermarket parts for my car, and amongst them are my new shrockworks sliders.

The installation went smooth as silk until the last screws had to be put in on the rear driver side. I have a 2011 Trail Edition and ordered the TE skids (le'duh).

Problem for those mechanically inclined:
The frame does *not* have threading available for the screws, and there is no hole on the frame big enough for me to stick in a nut on a stick. the closest hole large enough is about 10" away.
I have not had time to call shrockworks since the installation, but I plan on it when i get another chance to work on the car. For now the slider is bolted on with just 1 screw in the back, and it seems to be solid enough for now.

any ideas on how to get those last couple screws in?

thanks
Click to expand...

Gotta drill, IIRC for the last bolt. I've read up on this, but haven't installed any.
 
From their website:

Installation:
- For the Trail version, it is a simple bolt-on. No cutting or welding required. Drilling one 3/8" hole per side to install an additional bolt is recommended for offroad use. You only have to drill through one side of the frame material, and there is easy access to the back of this area to put a nut on the bolt.
 
i guess that's kind of my point...
given the gas tank and the skid covering it, the back side of frame isnt exactly accessible - without some serious disassembly- for these bolts. I don't really want to put extra holes in my frame, just to access these through holes, unless I absolutely have to.
 
Exempt said:
i guess that's kind of my point...
given the gas tank and the skid covering it, the back side of frame isnt exactly accessible - without some serious disassembly- for these bolts. I don't really want to put extra holes in my frame, just to access these through holes, unless I absolutely have to.
Click to expand...

A pic of what your talking about would sure help us out to make sure you have it on right with that gas tank strap. The rear leg of the slider gets sandwiched in between the strap and the frame,not over the strap.

When they're talking about drilling the optional extra hole,that means the front leg that's angled and attaches to the cross member of the frame . I never drilled mine out and just left the 3 bolts hold it.No problems and I've had the weight of the truck on it.
 
Somewhat off topic but I've had my sliders in storage for the past couple of months and when I pulled out the parts bags the stick nuts were covered in rust (still sealed in the plastic bag). Now I'm no metallurgist but are there any issues with throwing a rusted piece of metal inside the frames? Does Toyota finish the insides of the frames to inhibit rust?

Also, the stick nuts are a little too large to put into my frame holes. At least in the holes I can identify from the Shrockworks instructions. Did you all have to grind your stick nuts down just to fit?
 
I had to grind mine down and in fact had to get Shrockworks to send me some more because the ends that are not welded on square cannot be ground down enough to fit without getting into the threads. They sent me 4 more without any charge at all. I love Shrockworks. Can you tell? All my armor is from them. My skids arrived yesterday and are at the powder coaters now. Pick them up on Monday.
 
Sounds like mine is a bit different.

I called Shrockworks and they said Toyota decided not to thread some holes for some vehicles and others not to make holes at all (like mine, in certain areas only).

Seeking advice/opinion:

Driver side Front: 3 bolts screwed in (instructions say to drill in an extra) I plan on leaving it with the 3 bolts. unless it's advised otherwise.

Driver side back: normal 2 bolts on the side and 1 bolt on the bottom.

Passenger side front: (here's the slight difference) the bottom angled side has no holes at all. Do you think this is ok?
IMAG0001.jpg


passenger side back: 2 of 3 screws screwed in fine. 1 on the side and 1 on the bottom. the 2nd screw on the side is miss alighted and isn't likely to fit a screw in. Is this ok to just go with this? (the top screw is screwed in just took the picture beforehand)
IMAG1530.jpg


Thanks for your input! :thanks:
 
Crapgoose said:
Somewhat off topic but I've had my sliders in storage for the past couple of months and when I pulled out the parts bags the stick nuts were covered in rust (still sealed in the plastic bag). Now I'm no metallurgist but are there any issues with throwing a rusted piece of metal inside the frames? Does Toyota finish the insides of the frames to inhibit rust?

Also, the stick nuts are a little too large to put into my frame holes. At least in the holes I can identify from the Shrockworks instructions. Did you all have to grind your stick nuts down just to fit?
Click to expand...

I have the same question (about the rust) and wondering if anyone has some input on whether I should be worried or not. The shrockworks guys said all the stick nuts come like that.
 
I installed mine following their instructions to a 'T' at the sametime I did my underbody armor. I remember only drilling one hole up by my front cross member. I've lifted my 4Runner with my hi-lift, slid across rocks and they don't move a inch (maybe a 1/2"). If I also recall as I was having my dad help me install these with me and my 5yr old son, there was another one by the gas tank that the sliders went behind (been awhile since i've looked since installation) the bracket. My only issue I had was installing the gas plate skid, that was a pita.

I had zero issues with holes not lining up or anything. I did make sure I put all screws/bolts in and hand tightened before racheting them down.
 
:iagree: Had no issues at all, put all the bolts in place before tightening. The only drilling I had was on the front cross member.
 
dhampir said:
I have the same question (about the rust) and wondering if anyone has some input on whether I should be worried or not. The shrockworks guys said all the stick nuts come like that.
Click to expand...

If the rust bothers you, you can wire brush them and hit them with a rattle can of Rustoleum paint before you install them. But I really don't think it's a problem.
 
Last edited:
I had an awful time trying to put my sliders on my '11 TE as well. I only had a couple of threaded spots and the rest were all stick nuts. What a pain that was trying to fit the stick nuts in and line them up - mine had very little room to fit and manouvre those things around.

Love them now that they're on though - they look great and they're way sturdier than those OEM factory plastic boards :D
 
If it's too much trouble run to a muffler shop and have a few 1" welds done for $20 bucks.

If you ever remove (90% of people won't) just hit it with a grinder and your done...
 
deekoi said:
Sounds like mine is a bit different.

I called Shrockworks and they said Toyota decided not to thread some holes for some vehicles and others not to make holes at all (like mine, in certain areas only).

Seeking advice/opinion:

Driver side Front: 3 bolts screwed in (instructions say to drill in an extra) I plan on leaving it with the 3 bolts. unless it's advised otherwise.

Driver side back: normal 2 bolts on the side and 1 bolt on the bottom.

Passenger side front: (here's the slight difference) the bottom angled side has no holes at all. Do you think this is ok?
IMAG0001.jpg


passenger side back: 2 of 3 screws screwed in fine. 1 on the side and 1 on the bottom. the 2nd screw on the side is miss alighted and isn't likely to fit a screw in. Is this ok to just go with this? (the top screw is screwed in just took the picture beforehand)
IMAG1530.jpg


Thanks for your input! :thanks:
Click to expand...


What did you end up doing on the front passenger side where there were no holes for the bottom 2 bolts? Same issue on my truck
 
jhmiller said:
What did you end up doing on the front passenger side where there were no holes for the bottom 2 bolts? Same issue on my truck
Click to expand...

pretty much everyone runs into this situation. don't worry too much and just drill it out as the instructions dictate. (this was less a pain then dealing with the driver side gas tank IMO)
for my install i drilled with the slider already in place and top bolts in but not fully torqued (be sure to snug it up as tight as possible first, best to use a floor jack to apply upward pressure). i started a small pilot hole, then enlarged it until i got to 3/8".
also worth noting that i only installed 1 of the 2 available bolts on the lower front angled cross member. so no drilling on the driver side, just 1 hole for the passenger side.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 454 (members: 1, guests: 453)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,310
Messages
3,554,078
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top