Skid plates

O

orcking

New member
I did lot of research on skid plates.
Most if not all of them have a drawback of small opening access for an oil pan access. I am planning on putting valvomax valve but it seems most will not be doable. The only one I liked that looked like it has enough access was the cbi. The one thing that I did not like about cbi is that you have to remove the radiator support brackets before you install the engine skid. I am not comfortable with that. Rci is great but lacks room on the oil drain access . Any one have experience can shed any light..
 
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Have planned on ordering a set of RCI skids myself so have no experience. Can you open up the drain section on the skid to allow more access?
 
Hole size should be fine. Just about all the aftermarket skids you can fit your hand through the drain hole. Same for the filter hole. I know my RSG skid plates made it more than easy enough to put in a valve from Fumoto. Here's a pic for example. Would imagine everyone else is the same or damn near close.

Little off center looking due to my angle of taking the photo.

50953850368_853a8dbf3d_k.jpg
 
I have the RCI and I have NO problem changing my oil. SO much better than it was taking the stock one off every time. And it didn't get mangled the first time I hit a rock either.
 
MaddoxPics said:
Hole size should be fine. Just about all the aftermarket skids you can fit your hand through the drain hole. Same for the filter hole. I know my RSG skid plates made it more than easy enough to put in a valve from Fumoto. Here's a pic for example. Would imagine everyone else is the same or damn near close.

Little off center looking due to my angle of taking the photo.

50953850368_853a8dbf3d_k.jpg
Click to expand...


Thanks much for pic..
Do you have enough room for a torque wrench through the oil filter access door? It seems for rsg you also need to remove the radiator support brackets before you install the skid.

Can any one with rci skid please measure the diameter hole for oil pan or take pic.

Thanks
 
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orcking said:
Thanks much for pic..
Do you have enough room for a torque wrench through the oil filter access door? It seems for rsg you also need to remove the radiator support brackets before you install the skid.

Can any one with rci skid please measure the diameter hole for oil pan or take pic.

Thanks
Click to expand...

If you are asking to put a torque wrench itself through, probably not, unless you slide it in at an angle and then do it with the handle on the inside. Seems like that would be a pain. I honestly never torque them down. I go old school with tight and then quarter turn. No issues ever with leaks.

Yes you'll remove the radiator support brackets. Real simple and easy to do.
 
Orcking, since you and I were the only ones in your other thread, I would be seeking additional input as well.

I just got under my rig and took some measurements for you. The access hole in the RCI skid is just shy of 2.5" diameter. The important dimension for the Valvomax unit is actually the knurled screw in fitting on the drain attachment that compresses the ball valve for draining oil. It is larger in diameter than the unit itself an its removable cap. That drain fitting measures just over 1.5" diameter.

That leaves you roughly 1/2" clearance around the perimeter to work with. My thumb is 1" in diameter and my index finger is 3/4" diameter. As I mentioned yesterday, it's very tight. I plan to mess around with it on my next change as I also have the higher flow Fumoto on standby to replace the older one anyway. There may be enough vertical clearance once it's fished up there for room to work with. I won't know the stack-ups until I try to install it. Not due for oil until July though.

I hope this helps.
 
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5thToy said:
Orcking, since you and I were the only ones in your other thread, I would be seeking additional input as well.

I just got under my rig and took some measurements for you. The access hole in the RCI skid is just shy of 2.5" diameter. The important dimension for the Valvomax unit is actually the knurled screw in fitting on the drain attachment that compresses the ball valve for draining oil. It is larger in diameter than the unit itself an its removable cap. That drain fitting measures just over 1.5" diameter.

That leaves you roughly 1/2" clearance around the perimeter to work with. My thumb is 1" in diameter and my index finger is 3/4" diameter. As I mentioned yesterday, it's very tight. I plan to mess around with it on my next change as I also have the higher flow Fumoto on standby to replace the older one anyway. There may be enough vertical clearance once it's fished up there for room to work with. I won't know the stack-ups until I try to install it. Not due for oil until July though.

I hope this helps.
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Thanks 5thtoy

Keep me posted of your findings

I will hold off on the skid for now...
 
I guess that I am just old school but I have the RCI skid with front filler cover & I loosen the 2 bolts on the ff cover, then take out the 4 bolts dropping the skid and then do the oil change. I figure if I were to leave the skid on, I would have oil splash all over the under carridge.
 
Gstick said:
I guess that I am just old school but I have the RCI skid with front filler cover & I loosen the 2 bolts on the ff cover, then take out the 4 bolts dropping the skid and then do the oil change. I figure if I were to leave the skid on, I would have oil splash all over the under carridge.
Click to expand...

I use the JDT filter drain hose tool (performs the same function of opening the cartridge drain valve as the plastic insert that comes with the factory filter, but with an attached hose and drip free). Combined with the Fumoto valve nipple and hose for the pan = clean oil change. RCI engine and trans skids overlap and share mounting bolts with spacers.

I prefer to take advantage of access provided so I don't have to mess with skids. It's one of the perks of ditching factory skids.
 
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I’ve been looking at the Budbuilt skids. They have an option now to have an armored door at the oil drain location. Only problem is that it’s a $95 upgrade.
 
orcking said:
I do too. but 15 week lead is too much.
Click to expand...

lewdog998 said:
C4 makes some quality stuff, I have their sliders. almost went with these for my skids but I was trying to keep weight down. Im not rock crawling so the aluminum RCI worked for me.
Click to expand...
Yes, 15 weeks is quite a wait. Then you have to get them powder coated. They do make a TRD Pro integration plate for those with Pros to retain the front OEM aluminum skid. I posted these also as it looks like the oil filter/drain access would meet the OP’s needs. You can get a 10% discount on your first order with them by signing up. I will probably go this route.
 
Why not consider the RSG plate? I just installed mine a few weeks ago AND I did an oil change. It has plenty of access for both the filter and drain plug. The only reason I spilled was because I didn't move my hand away fast enough when I removed the drain plug; but that's on me.


Plenty of clearance to install a oil drain valve but I don't find it necessary since the oil drops straight downward thru the opening on the plate anyway. Seems like just an extra part you don't have to purchase.

2014 - 2021 5th Gen Toyota 4Runner Front Skid Plate W/ Cut Out Logo (K – RSG METALWORKS
 
Check LFD. They have been very good at taking all our concerns into consideration when they developed their skids. One example is their transfer case skid does not rub at all on the exhaust where others do.

LFD Off Road - Armor
 
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