Slowly But Surely (Build)

So since i got this thing i've put in new roof rack covers, door panel cover, new crate motor, rear brakes, rear brakes lines, and recently put the TRD rims on it. i have approx 1k miles on the new motor and nothing but awesomeness so far, idle goes straight to where its suppose to everytime, nice acceleration.

i had to cut my spare out because the line rusted on the tire carrier so had to drill out the holes and install the new chain one.

Next is the 4WD button is broken and doesnt go to 4 lo, the knob is cracked on the inside but i also can't turn it by hand all the way to 4lo, turns to 4hi fine but cant go further to right. So ordering another button soon.

Only issue i have is, i'm pretty sure its sagging pretty bad, the front looked a little more raised than my previous runner which i found that the previous owner put cheapo autozone struts on so it raised it 1". I took some pictures to show. Trailer is a 6x12, has (3) 4 wheelers standing on their ass inside. I bought this to tow the 4 wheelers but than reading how awesome they are and being that i am in florida some off roading will definitely be possible.

Can i get away with slapping a set of the bilstein 5100 $500, on the springs currently on there or is it a little more complicated than that.

Also when I’m going over railroad tracks or a random hard bump feels like the steering pulls hard which ever direction it took the hit
 

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I went with Gen 5 strut/spring assemblies that came out of a low mileage, 6 month old vehicle someone was adding a lift to. Super cheap on Ebay and rides like new. The old ones lasted close to 200k and over 15 years so I shouldn't need to touch those again. Just need to grind off a bit of metal on the lower part of the shock.
 
i was pretty happy with bilstein 5100 and 5th gen coils/ springs. If you swap the rear shocks without upgrading the springs, I think youll feel a lot of bouncing. the 5th gen suspension you should basically be able to get for free. Do not pay more than $100 for a complete suspension set, just join the 4runner groups on facebook for Fla, classified etc. People will list them for what they cost buying from toyota, but so many people just throw them away.
 
I went with Gen 5 strut/spring assemblies that came out of a low mileage, 6 month old vehicle someone was adding a lift to. Super cheap on Ebay and rides like new. The old ones lasted close to 200k and over 15 years so I shouldn't need to touch those again. Just need to grind off a bit of metal on the lower part of the shock.

are they a direct bolt on?? grind a bit of metal???

also are you guys towing anything??? cause my main concern is when i load the trailer onto her, back sags a little like in the pictures, would this setup work???
 
are they a direct bolt on?? grind a bit of metal???

also are you guys towing anything??? cause my main concern is when i load the trailer onto her, back sags a little like in the pictures, would this setup work???

The fronts are direct bolt on except for trimming that lower shock eyelet. I put aftermarket shocks in the back, didn't touch the springs as it doesn't squat at all but I don't tow anything huge. If I did I'd probably add Airlift airbags instead.
 
Since I plan on keeping it and most likely plan to off-road with it occasionally. I’m pretty sure I’m set with wanting the bilsteins shock wise.

But I need to figure out the springs as per my reading that’s what will really handle the sag when I load the trailer on it. Sorry haven’t had suspension work in a while and 4x4 is all new to me.

Now I have a 6x12 enclosed, almost always it will be loaded with (3) 4 wheelers that weigh about 600 lbs each standing up. Plus whatever gear I bring. From what I’ve found
Trailer 1800
Atvs 1800
So I’ll be at about 4k lbs.

I also have the regular hitch not the one that bolts to the undercarriage.

I haven’t towed yet since I’ve gotten this runner but just from reading here and their wanna make it as safe as possible.
 
Since I plan on keeping it and most likely plan to off-road with it occasionally. I’m pretty sure I’m set with wanting the bilsteins shock wise.

But I need to figure out the springs as per my reading that’s what will really handle the sag when I load the trailer on it. Sorry haven’t had suspension work in a while and 4x4 is all new to me.

Now I have a 6x12 enclosed, almost always it will be loaded with (3) 4 wheelers that weigh about 600 lbs each standing up. Plus whatever gear I bring. From what I’ve found
Trailer 1800
Atvs 1800
So I’ll be at about 4k lbs.

I also have the regular hitch not the one that bolts to the undercarriage.

I haven’t towed yet since I’ve gotten this runner but just from reading here and their wanna make it as safe as possible.

If I were going to haul 4000 lbs often or more than a couple of times, I would get the V8 hitch, or a equivalent aftermarket hitch, I just don't think I could trust the V6 hitch just being bolted to that comparatively flimsy rear cross member compared to the V8 hitch being bolted directly to the main frame rails.
 
New engine is at about 3k miles so far and random things keep popping up so trying to resolve them as they come.

changed all the o2 sensors, got 1st error of before the cats on drivers side, than the passenger popped up, changed those, no codes for about a good month. my CEL doesn't work so i have to randomly put the OBD on.

CEL bulb an easy fix??? anyway p420,p430 popped up and i changed the bottom two sensors, so all 4 sensors were changed. codes disappeared, took her for a 200 mile trip checked for codes and sure enough the p420,p430 popped up again.

my exhaust definitely needs to be replaced from the cats back, so i was thinking might as well get headers and replace the whole thing, but wanted to do it right. so trying to look at what good options i have to piece together an exhaust system for this badboy, that keeps the torque where it needs to be.

my other issue is the suspension, definitely sagging as you see from the pictures. everyones suggesting airbags but thats just another thing to up keep with and would rather have a permanent solution. i'm pretty sure the old suspension is not helping the sagging at all either, as well as the cheap shocks in the front that raised it an extra 1in. i'm tyring to keep it at a stock height as i mainly use it for towing my 3 four wheelers, the trailer is weighing i'd say close to 4k lbs.

will the v8 hitch help the sagging at all???
 
So bought replacement manifolds, brand was davico, off Rockauto. Install was pretty straight forward. Seems to have gotten rid of the p420,p430 codes.
 
up next is suspension work, going with the bilstein 5100, OME springs. there right about $1k with new top hats.

most likely going to add an airbag system as well, as i will be towing 4k lbs on a constant basis.

most likely gonna go with a 2" lift and than get bigger tires on the TRD rims.

what other suspension parts should i be replacing since body has 148k miles on it, am i able to rebuild the upper and lower control arms????
 
i had ordered the transmission filter a couple months ago so had to find that, but fluid came in faster than expected and the kiddos were at grandpa's so i took advantage of the time and did some apparently much needed maintenance. Fluid was a little dark, pan was pretty dirty, light sluggy grey stuff, so cleaned it all up and the magnets. changed the filter, the gasket and bolted everything back up. Happen to see a zerk and thought he why not do those as well, filled up 5 of them with some fresh grease. Went through all the gears, which noticed my lower gears are harder to shift into with the shifter, so mechanism might need to be looked at soon. Put it into 4x4 as well. and than took it for a spin, all is well.

NOW SAVING FOR SUSPENSION.
 

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up next is suspension work, going with the bilstein 5100, OME springs. there right about $1k with new top hats.

most likely going to add an airbag system as well, as i will be towing 4k lbs on a constant basis.

most likely gonna go with a 2" lift and than get bigger tires on the TRD rims.

what other suspension parts should i be replacing since body has 148k miles on it, am i able to rebuild the upper and lower control arms????

I’m not sure about rebuilding the upper control arms, I replaced mine with JBA to fix my caster with a 3” lift. I did rebuild the lower using Whiteline bushings and moog ball joints. It is kind of a pita. Take a good look at the bushings, 140k miles and the age they might be wasted. Depending on your tools and abilities it might be easier to replace the control arms. Probably want to replace the cam adjusters and bolts too. With a 2” lift I would install an eimkeith PCK in the rear. I originally had an adjustable panhard bar but recently did the PCK bracket and stock panhard. It has bolt hole adjustments for 2”-3” lift. 2” lift and slightly larger tires shouldn’t give too many issues. I have a small trailer and my Yamaha Rhino probably only tips the scale total at 2500lbs I have 3” HD springs and it tows ok.
 
I’m not sure about rebuilding the upper control arms, I replaced mine with JBA to fix my caster with a 3” lift. I did rebuild the lower using Whiteline bushings and moog ball joints. It is kind of a pita. Take a good look at the bushings, 140k miles and the age they might be wasted. Depending on your tools and abilities it might be easier to replace the control arms. Probably want to replace the cam adjusters and bolts too. With a 2” lift I would install an eimkeith PCK in the rear. I originally had an adjustable panhard bar but recently did the PCK bracket and stock panhard. It has bolt hole adjustments for 2”-3” lift. 2” lift and slightly larger tires shouldn’t give too many issues. I have a small trailer and my Yamaha Rhino probably only tips the scale total at 2500lbs I have 3” HD springs and it tows ok.

Well went ahead pulled the trigger on the bilstein ome combo 2884 for the front and 2895 for the rear on springs. They were a $100 off from when I looked last and assembled. So this will be the next project.

To do list left
Differential fluid exchange
One of my boots is ripped
Rear window regulator is broken

I’m thinking of doing it all at once but would have to wait to see what my plan is for uca and lca might as well replace, I mean I’ve replaced most of the parts on it on purpose once I get to that particular section so might as well keep going.
 
Upper ball joints were shot on mine and may have been one of the steering bounce culprits. That was my last front suspension component that I replaced. Fixed my 65mph shake, too.

That or also worn rear shocks. I had near lane changes on bad road dips prior to a shock upgrade. I did cheapo the rancho upgrade for now, thinking I'd adjust them for towing and regular. Nah. I just keep them cranked on all the time.
 
I do alot of 4 wheeling so i constantly tow a 12ft enclosed trailer,i started paying attention to the steering/suspension issues everytime i go out.

so far i have noticed my right front suspension has something going on, everytime i go over rocks or bumps after it recovers has almost like a loose feeling to it, not sure if its the shocks that suck ass, as they are cheapo autozone shocks or if i have UCA OR LCA issues. i also noticed my steering being super wobbly for the first couple minutes after this happens. i definitely need an alignment as i feel the wheels shake a little. but trying to resolve the suspension issues first.

now i have the bilstein 5100/ome setup coming in, as soon as they ship them to me. But i wanted to take care of the other issues i'm having while i'm already messing with the suspension.

Also are the LCA and UCA rebuildable on OEM???? anyone sell the whole bushing kit?? my boy has a press so i have access to one for whatever i need.
 
So little update to my build thread. so i was planning to get a y-pipe and replace the rest of the exhaust eventually. but i ended up stopping at my friends dads shop and he welded a couple spots up that were trouble spots and replaced the muffler as it was the original toyota muffler. so definitely felt the difference in response once he sealed up the exhaust system from the leak it had, plus alot quieter. so happy that the exhaust portion is taken care of, wasn't planning on it now, but it happened so its out the way.

i have the bilstein/ome setup 2884 front and 2895 rear. as well as i bought the energy suspension bushing for the front and back. New 555 ball joints will be ordered as well from napa.

but while i had the suspension apart, will be a good time to do some rust removing and preventative as some spots need attention. that round cross bar that goes across the back of the frame on top of the axle, that holds the spring perch and the rear axle etc, i can look through one side of the hole from the rear tire and see flakes of rust through there, outside has a couple bad spots as well. i plan to wire brush everything and most likely use POR15.

i was thinking of sticking a broom stick or something to loosen all the flakes inside and than find a product with a hose that i can stick through one side come out the other, start spraying and pull it back through while spraying to cover the inside.

so maybe some tips on how you guys treated and handled the crevices and inside of the frame and with what product?? can por15 be put into a spray bottle???
 

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just measured the height with the current suspension it has. about it start removing the old stuff. so in a couple days i'll post some pics, not really trying to rush with everything i have to do.

Front Rear
DS - 36 1/4 DS - 36 1/2
PS - 37 1/4 DS - 36 1/4
 
still haven't finished the front end, decided to replace a couple things while i was in there to not step on my foot later. so wheel hub/bearings and axles should be here between today and tomorrow.

i went ahead and painted the spare parts with rustoleum and while i was at it i rebuilt and painted the calipers.

painting the frame and wheel well area as well tomorrow

waiting on some bushings on friday, that i need to finish the lca and i can start assembling everything again for the front and i can start messing with the rear.
 

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