CJ3Flyr
Super Moderator
I had my tires balanced yesterday. They did the "on car" balance which worked fine. Just as they were finishing up the last wheel (drivers' front) the manager came to me holding my lugnut with half the stud hanging out.:sobbing: Of course the next five minutes was spent explaining that everybody who has rotated the tires before them was at fault. Right... Not having time or the emotional strength to deal with them anymore I said thank-you and left.
I went to NAPA to get a stud. NAPA said 'dealer only' which I knew was wrong. When I changed the model year from '07 to '03 they had 3 in stock, $1.99ea.
I parked the vehicle with the broken stud in the 9 o'clock position because I had studied the back plate/caliper layout and knew there was good clearance. (Side note: When doing the balance they actually turned the wheel a couple of times looking for the best balance prior to adding weight. Because of this I marked the rim with a Sharpie to preserve the effort.) Next up a long punch and a full-sized sledge hammer. With punch on the stud and a couple of light to medium swings and clang-clang, the stud dropped into the rotor***. :bigok: Next I loosened the remaining lugnuts, jacked it up and removed the tire. I was expecting to have to remove the caliper, pull the rotor off, remove the old stud and position the new stud. I pushed the caliper pistons back all the way. This allowed the rotor to wiggle around enough that I was able to remove the old stud and position the new one:dancin: I didn't even have to remove the caliper.
Overall it was much easier than I thought it was going to be. The longest part of the process involved jacking and tire R&R. It, honestly, took me longer to type this than it did replace the stud
Point of all this is don't despair if you break one....
*** Note: I did it in that order purposefully so as to avoid beating an unsupported flange, bearing etc. The energy from the sledge was "absorbed" into the rim/tire rather than into the flange & axle. Is it necessary? I don't know, that's just how I roll...
:cheers:
I went to NAPA to get a stud. NAPA said 'dealer only' which I knew was wrong. When I changed the model year from '07 to '03 they had 3 in stock, $1.99ea.
I parked the vehicle with the broken stud in the 9 o'clock position because I had studied the back plate/caliper layout and knew there was good clearance. (Side note: When doing the balance they actually turned the wheel a couple of times looking for the best balance prior to adding weight. Because of this I marked the rim with a Sharpie to preserve the effort.) Next up a long punch and a full-sized sledge hammer. With punch on the stud and a couple of light to medium swings and clang-clang, the stud dropped into the rotor***. :bigok: Next I loosened the remaining lugnuts, jacked it up and removed the tire. I was expecting to have to remove the caliper, pull the rotor off, remove the old stud and position the new stud. I pushed the caliper pistons back all the way. This allowed the rotor to wiggle around enough that I was able to remove the old stud and position the new one:dancin: I didn't even have to remove the caliper.
Overall it was much easier than I thought it was going to be. The longest part of the process involved jacking and tire R&R. It, honestly, took me longer to type this than it did replace the stud
Point of all this is don't despair if you break one....
*** Note: I did it in that order purposefully so as to avoid beating an unsupported flange, bearing etc. The energy from the sledge was "absorbed" into the rim/tire rather than into the flange & axle. Is it necessary? I don't know, that's just how I roll...
:cheers:
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