Snatch Strap Technique

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I had one of the boys hold the strap up so the hooks stayed in place.
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surely he didnt hold them while you were pulling?!?!?!?

glad it worked out and teach em to not go wheelin in local developments
 
Re: Re: Snatch Strap Technique

fireteacher said:
surely he didnt hold them while you were pulling?!?!?!?

glad it worked out and teach em to not go wheelin in local developments

No just until they were snug enough that the hooks would stay where they needed to be, then I had them get far from everything, but close enough to signal if something didn't look right. I'm a Civil Engineer who's been working on land development projects for 25 years. They know better now.:bash:
 
I meant to take a camera out there Saturday morning but forgot it. I guess the shovels were more important. One of the boys had a camera, but he didn't remember that it was in the truck until it was out of the hole. I'm trying to get the pictures of the mud covered Jeep. I remember Friday night trying to get it out, I'd quit giving it gas and a few seconds later I heard mud falling out of the sky onto the roof and windshield... several times.
 
Sorry, but you don't understand a real "snatch strap" technique.

A true snatch strap has built-in elasticity, which multiples force. A little slack between the vehicles, a running start, and once the strap stretches to it's max, it reacts with a pulling force stronger than the inital force. Using a strap as an extension for a come-along would be counter productive. Just an extension for the come-along. However it would be normal for a tow-strap, which unfortunately is which most "snatch straps" really are. Even Pro-Comps straps say they are not to be used that way in the fine print.

As for wheeling at a construction site, using a 2WD truck, etc. :nono:
 
4by4th said:
... I had one of the boys hold the strap up so the hooks stayed in place...

I think fourwd1 is correct.
Sounds like you were using a tow strap (fiber strap with hooks on ends.) This is different than a snatch strap which has looped ends and elastic properties. You risk serious damage if you misapply a tow strap (snapping a hook, stretching and weakening the strap) as a snatch strap.
 
fourwd1 said:
Sorry, but you don't understand a real "snatch strap" technique.

A true snatch strap has built-in elasticity, which multiples force. A little slack between the vehicles, a running start, and once the strap stretches to it's max, it reacts with a pulling force stronger than the inital force. Using a strap as an extension for a come-along would be counter productive. Just an extension for the come-along. However it would be normal for a tow-strap, which unfortunately is which most "snatch straps" really are. Even Pro-Comps straps say they are not to be used that way in the fine print.


Doing a Google search for tow straps and snatch straps, I guess I was incorrectly referring to my tow straps with hooks as snatch straps. I also see tow straps with loops advertised. One of my straps is frayed a little and I could justify replacement, and will get a snatch strap with loops. Looking for recommendations on how to attach it to a vehicle without tow hooks. None of my vehicles have open hooks to slide a loop on. I guess using strong rope to tie the loop to a frame or suspension part would work, but are there any better ways to do it?

I understand the stronger pulling force with the stretching strap, and the tow straps I
 
Hooks or loops, a tow strap and a snatch strap are constructed differently for different uses, even though the may look the same.

When using a snatch strap, naturally the amount of slack and speed for a "running start" would be adjusted acording to how stuck a vehicle is. Don't break it loose the first time? just get a longer running start the second, and third if needed.

Backing up for a second run sure is a lot easier than re-winching w/a come-a-long.

Using a strap that stretches with the come-a-long is what makes the technique work. When we crank the come-a-long with straps as tight as we can and the vehicle hasn
 
fourwd1 said:
And yanking on a strap w/a come-a-long attached (if I understand the above quote correctly) is dangerous and stupid. You could easily exceed the strength of the come-a-long and end up w/a dangerous projectile.


But if it works for you, knock yourself out. I just would rather have others reading this understand correct recovery methods.]

If you re-read my prior posts about using the come-a-long, you
 
4by4th said:
One of my straps is frayed a little and I could justify replacement, and will get a snatch strap with loops. Looking for recommendations on how to attach it to a vehicle without tow hooks. None of my vehicles have open hooks to slide a loop on. I guess using strong rope to tie the loop to a frame or suspension part would work, but are there any better ways to do it?

You're asking for trouble using a frayed strap. Burn it (so no one else tries to use it) and treat yourself to a new loop snatch strap. While you're at it get a receiver hitch shackle. Nix the rope idea (more trouble.) Carry a couple of extra shackles to connect the loops to other tow points or turn the strap in on itself through the loop.
 
i think by snatch straps everyone is refering to recovery straps? the ones with loops and wih elastic properties. they work very well. my friend had a trailer stuck in the frozen grass in his back yard last winter. and his f250 got stuff trying to pull it out. long story short, we hooked up the recovery straps to his HUGE front hooks and I got the truck out. only stupid thing we did was put the strap around my ball. NEVER PUT THE STRAPS AROUND THE BALL it is the perfect recipe to get hurt. there are tow hooks on the back of the 4th gen t4rs. get some 3/4inch (at least) shackles. only thing is, i dont know how strong the rear tow hooks are. anyone know?
 

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